pole barn questions

[JimMorrissey]

Has anybody compacted a proper base then paved it? A paved floor sounds pretty nice instead of dirt and likely a lot less expensive than concrete (although I love concrete) just for working on machines and such. Makes it easier to clean the floor and when you drop a wrench covered in hydraulic fluid it's not completely covered....obvious I guess. Maybe the pavement could be covered with something like this.... gas and Oil type of sealer to protect the pavement and keep the smell of the pavement to a minimum

 

[PBinWA]

I don't understand why people just don't use J-Bolt's embedded in concrete with some post anchors from Simpson http://www.strongtie.com

You can get lots of different post anchors at Home Depot and the cost is marginal. It's a little more work to try and line everything up but for a pole building it won't be that bad.

Of course, I've never built a pole barn. I have built some second story decks though and everything I've read indicates that the J-Bolt in concrete with a heavy duty galvanized post base is the way to go. If the base connector or post rust or decay then all you have to do is unbolt them and replace them.

Just a thought.

 

[JimMorrissey]

Norm,

The rotting due to the moisture in VT is what I suspected. Good to see somebody with 18 years of experience chime in. You didn't mention it, but certainly the posts were pressure treated????

The "big foot" type of foundation pads make sense. Maybe just a big sonotube below frostline is the way to go. Not sure if these type things are necessary.

 

[JimMorrissey]

I think the idea of the simple pole in the ground is just that....it's simple, inexpensive and the poles are all set and lined up when you backfill and make the skirt and top plate connections. However if you live in an area that has heavy frost and lots of moisture then something like you suggest is certain to be considered. Why go to all the work if it's going to rot out in 15-20 years. That's no fun.

 

[JimMorrissey]

Nice dull.....That's definitely an option, so you get the rot resistance and the ease of simple poles in the ground without building a "foundation". Interesting. There's got to be similar type of options out there as well.

 

[rswyan]

Jim,

I'm putting up a 42' x 72 polebarn .... or I should say I'm having it put up by Cleary. I don't know the exact percentage in cost difference, versus a conventional building, but there really isn't any foundation to speak of (just a 6" concrete cookie at the bottom of the pole holes), and there is obviously less lumber than traditional stud construction ... so there's some savings there. I'd guess that the metal siding is probably cheaper than wood siding (but maybe not vinyl ?) possibly material-wise ... but certainly in the labor of putting it up.

I got a price from Carter Lumber for the same size polebarn, using essentially the same materials (metal roof and siding) and the cost was for the materials alone was the same price as I'm paying for the building and to have Cleary construct it.

As far as the poles rotting out ..... I'm not to excited about having them buried directly in the ground .... but then Cleary does offer either a 35 or 50 year warranty (transferrable I believe) on 'em ....... of course who knows whether Cleary will even be around that long. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm paying right around $26K for the building and it's construction. I'm having three 12' x 10' insulated commercial overhead doors installed .... and they alone were almost $3K. The 1' overhang was additional, as was having the poles on 8' centers (instead of 10') A few other additional cost items such as gable vents ....

Cleary will have it up in probably 5 days or so, from start to finish. I could have bought just an M.O. package (materials only) for about $8K less and put it up myself .... but then the idea of working outside for long periods in the middle of January or February somehow wasn't real appealing. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I'll do the plumbing, electric, and HVAC myself and save the labor on that. I also cleared the site and graded it (with the help of some very good friends) .... which is a little more savings.

 

[ericbx1500]

like I have said before a post will last many years. just make sure the post that are used have a 0.6 spec on the wood. of course there are always exceptions poor drainage, low lying area were you have standing water. these are concerns which need to be addressed before building a post frame struture. just look at alot of your old barns which have been standing for 50,75,100 years(of course many are in rough shape)but there still standing. and back then they diden't even treat the wood like today. i guess if you decide to build a pole barn you have to use a product you feel most Comfortable with. here in michigan i have seen nothing but 4x6 & 6x6 post used for the structure and we get our fare share of weather in this state. if anything i think the skirt boards take more of a beating then the post. just my 2 cense. you could also take a look at this product(clicky below). On my pole barn I first put 80# of dry mix in each hole and let it sit for three days to let it harding by soaking up the ground mosture. Then i dropped the 4X6 posts in and backfilled.

web page

 

[JimMorrissey]

Eric,

Certainly .6 PT posts would last way longer than standard PT material from the local lumber yard. I tried to find some for another project and it was a chore to get a lumber yard to order them for me. Never went through with it......0.6 is certainly the way to go if posts go direct soil contact.

Aren't you concerned that the posts could pull out of the ground and your building sail away in a very heavy wind, say 75-100 mph? Did you put anything on or near the base of the posts to keep them from pulling out of the ground if a big wind gets under the roof/overhangs?

 

[ericbx1500]

Jim the posts are sunk 42" in the ground. I think it would take a lot more them 100mph winds to lift this type of structure /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Now if a tornado happing to drop by then its fair game /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JimMorrissey]

How did you attach the .6 to the upper lumber, or did you go full .6 from the bottom to the top?