pole barn questions

   / pole barn questions #31  
Hi Jim-

If you plan to DIY and are concerned about pole rot, you might consider doing what I did - I went with steel poles. Welded up a steel cage at the base of each to hold the concrete together in the holes and spread the load. I like steel for the poles because it doesn't rot or warp, twist, etc.

Pictures, etc at this web page..

Good luck with your building.

Mark
 
   / pole barn questions
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Nice building.

I'll likely go with wood, but will have to order .6 spec PT or higher for the poles. Lots of water all over VT. .6-.8 will last until I'm in the grave (so they say).
 
   / pole barn questions #33  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Nice building.

I'll likely go with wood, but will have to order .6 spec PT or higher for the poles. Lots of water all over VT. .6-.8 will last until I'm in the grave (so they say). )</font>

======= <font color="orange">****** </font> =======
Some of the pole builders in this area are going with treated up to about 2 or 3 feet above ground then on up to the top with regular lumber for poles.
One advantage of this is you get straighter poles with fewer twist / warps in them.
It also results in heavier post than going with a treated post all the way up to the top

My next door neighbor had a pole barn built this way.
A couple of years before that I had a 30 x50 PB built with 4x6 treated post top to bottom.
I also had a 22 x 76 PB built with 4x4 treated post top to bottom. I plan on adding a 50 foot extension on the right end of this building. I plan on doing the post like those in my neighbors
building. This will give me 4x5 inch post in the extension as opposed to the 4x4 inch post in the rest of the building.
 
   / pole barn questions #34  
<font color="blue"> <<
1*I used 4X4 pressure treated poles
2* I used one 80 lb. bag of quickcrete per pole and tamped soil to fill the balance of the hole.
TNhobbyfarmer
Silver Member >>
************ </font>
Most people use 4x6 or 6x6 post>What made you decide on 4x4 poles?
 
   / pole barn questions #35  
<font color="green"> I am currently in the process of adding 2x4 purloins on the inside of the 4x6s and am going to put 7/16 OSB horizontal around the base of the walls, 1/2 inch sheet rock for the upper part and fill the walls with blow in insulation.
Farwell
Gold Member </font>
>>>> >>>> >>>>
I plan on putting up the OSB inside too.
I expect to attach it directly to the post to eliminate using purloins.
What I don't like about the purloins is you loose 4'' of floor length and another 4'' of floor width by using them.
Eliminating the inside purloins is quicker easier cheeper and conservers floor space.
I'm going with spray on foam insulation for a better insulation value which allows for a smaller heating / cooling more efficient operating unit.
 
   / pole barn questions #36  
<font color="purple"> 1*I've heard concrete poured to the top of the hole will rot the posts in very moist Vermont.
2*I've heard others say it's best to pack the hole with tamped stone so the water doesn't sit permanently around the pole.
JimMorrissey
Veteran Member </font>
< > < > < > >< >< ><
1*That's why you stop the pour about 4'' below ground level and fill the hole on up with tamped earth.
2*So now you have a hole below grade with some gravel in it to collect water around the poles.
 
   / pole barn questions #37  
<font color="brown">
1*Were the 4x4 posts recommended by an engineered plan? or your decision?
They seem to be on the thin side from what I would expect of posts holding a shed that size.
2*My 24x24 has 6x6 treated posts with tamped crushed limestone packed around them.
beenthere
Elite Member </font>
=============== >>
1*I've found that 4x4 or 4x6 post are big enough.
With a 6x6 post you loose 4 inches of floor length and width.
You also loose the 4 inches of floor length and width if you face the 4x6 post the wrong direction.
2*How is the water ever going to drain out of holes that are below ground level?
 
   / pole barn questions #38  
<font color="blue">
Aren't you concerned that the posts could pull out of the ground and your building sail away in a very heavy wind, say 75-100 mph?
JimMorrissey
********************** </font>
The wind would most likely rip the building apart before it pulled the post up out of the ground unless of course the post were only buried a foot or so deep.
 
   / pole barn questions #39  
======= <font color="orange">****** </font> =======
Some of the pole builders in this area are going with treated up to about 2 or 3 feet above ground then on up to the top with regular lumber for poles. )</font>


This is a practice mortan pb builders have used for many years. There reason behind this is it's much easier to insulate the building.
 
   / pole barn questions
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Yeah, I've seen that where they put treated base integrated with standard pine/spruce. That seems to make a lot of sense. It's a bit more work, but seems like the way to go.
 
 
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