Treated 2x4 or regular?

   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #1  

Richard

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Finishing basement bathroom (full bath when done), block walls, dirt on other side of block ALL the way up save for perhaps the last course of blocks.

Inside, the blocks have three coats of UGL drylock on them. On the outside, they have 2 coats of tar AND some form of plastic sheating.

In 6 years, have NEVER had the first drop/puddle of moisture but did have some small (1/2 diamater of dime) spots that I THINK were mold spots. I hit them (and entire wall) with strong bleach solution.

Ok, I've got a stack of good regular 2x4's. I've got several treated 2x4's to use as plates along floor/wall.

Can I use NON treated 2x4's on the block walls, or should I listen to my gut instinct and either do what's right, or what is overkill. I would be mounting them directly onto the block walls with nothing in between the block & stud (other than the UGL drylock)

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   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #2  
I would use the treated lumber. The reason being the studs may be exposed to humidity. Use the treated for anything that comes in contact with concrete. Top sill, studs, and bottom sill. For interior walls, use the treated for bottom sill. The treated material not only guards against moisture, but insects too. Remember todays ACQ treated lumber requires triple galvanized or stainless fasteners.
 
   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #3  
Richard; I suspect someone will most likely disagree, but I think the treated lumber is the way to go. Even though you have the UGL stuff on the wall, moisture will most likely will still migrate thru it to some extent. You just can't see it is all. Take a 12" square piece of visqueen, and use duct tape to tape it in the area you'll be working. Leave there about a week. Then see if you have any moisture on either side of it. If it's on the side against the wall, guess what, you,ve got moisture coming thru.
At any rate, any time wood is to be in contact with masonry, it should always be treated. I beleive the new Universal Building Code even states that. They must have a reason. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Treated 2x4 or regular?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Well, a part of me that I wanted to ignore said treated would be the choice. Just wish I could use the 2x4's I already have instead of yet another trip to the store.

I've attached a pic of the wall (in spite of already having the answer I expected)

Thanks

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   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #5  
That's the way it is here. If you use wood against concrete , it must be treated. In your case (if you'er not having it inspected ) you will be the only one to know. I used treated when I built my den.
 
   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #6  
Use either. All us Carpenters are taught to use PT on anything in contact with masonry. My experience tells me that isn't always best. If your area is markedly prone to termite infestation, then use the PT. If not, I'd go with the regular kiln dried. Most people don't know that the PT is more prone to support black mold. It doesn't breath as well. Can't tell you how many times I've gotten new PT material with mold working on it already. If your concerned, paint the masonry side with a mold resistant paint, the whole 2 x if you want but I prefer they breathe on 3 sides. Another trick is to not insulate tight to the block, if you intend to. I use 1" foam, not 1 1/2", in that application and hold it off the wall. If the air space can breath out the top plate, all the better. The idea is to make a slow breathing chimney space against the block. Stops allot of problems down the road.

HTH
 
   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #7  
Good info here: Building Science Corp One of their recommendations is to use metal studs...also, I've seen a new type of sheetrock at Home Depot that doesn't have the paper face; claim is that it's more mold resistant. Whatever you go with I would recommend that you let the space behind the finish wall 'breath'; and don't use batt insulation, go with the rigid foam panels - they don't hold moisture and critters dn't seem to like them (no nest!).

-Norm
 
   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #8  
Richard! Look at the plywood behind the disconnect box,What
shape is it in as it doesn't look treated?How long has it been there? If it's been there for sometime and is in good shape
then I'd go ahead and use the plain 2X4s that you already have but if thher's any signs of the ply seperating(swelling)
or dark color change in the ply against the wall,you may have
moisture issues! Good luck wich ever way you go.
 
   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #9  
When I did my basement I did have moisture problems with the block walls (old 1940's house), no protedection either inside or outside. My method was to use PT but first face the blocks with a heavy gauge plastic. No problems so far after about 15 years.

Harry K
 
   / Treated 2x4 or regular? #10  
I finish lots of basements. I usually use PT 2x4's against the floors and the rest regular white-wood.
Things to remeber with PT,
- the dimensions are not always the same as non-pt
- with the new ACQ lumber be sure to use only triple-hot-dipped nails or ACQ approved fastners. This will affect your drywall screws/nails as well.
- it warps more.

Some one else mentioned steel studs that may be the way to go.

-dave
 
 
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