What pitch roof do you think this is?
- Thread starter yak651
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Robert_in_NY
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Pitch is a standard 6/12. Not quite steep enough to worry about falling off of but steep enough to give you more room inside. Personally, I would much rather shingle a 6/12 roof then any other pitch. Just a lot easier all the way around.
inveresk
Platinum Member
Here's a little exercise that took me about ten minutes. I imported your photograph into a CAD programme I use for architectural drawings, adjusted the horizontal scale some to take account of the angled perspective of the gable then added some scaled dimensions based on a door height of 6'6". This gives a gable width across the walls of 28' and a roof pitch of 6/12. I've added a few other dimensions which might be helpful.
This won't be entirely accurate because of the perspective but it should be close enough to allow you to plan the dimensions of your own barn.
This won't be entirely accurate because of the perspective but it should be close enough to allow you to plan the dimensions of your own barn.
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Thorndike
Bronze Member
CAD !! Guess we know who got the bucks now!!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Us poor old guys still rely on calculators and graph paper!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
BigAl
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Yak,
You are right on the money as far as side wall height . It is 9 ' tall .The roof pitch is 6/12 as 7/12 is not a commonly used roof pitch in barn design architecture inless this was designed by somone other than a designer or architect . The Cupola roof is 12/12 or less on this particular barn . The Cupola is small ,so the designer was able to get away with this roof pitch and still bring the building into a appealing prospective . It serve no function other than looks ,I believe , from looking at this picture. I see no gable end venting of any kind which leads me to believe that cross ventilation was not considered in design . I will bet you money the that if a truss was used there is no "loft area" as most trusses are on 24" centers with diagonal cross webbing chords for roof strength depending on the required Snow Load rating . Again I would bet that the hay loft door above is fake and for looks only . Trusses are wonderful but not for Barns ,where a loft is needed in the attic area . At least not with a common "Gable" truss as this appears to be .A "Grambel" truss design would be much better suited but even it would eat up a lot of floor space in the loft area . Of course this would also raise your roof construction cost considerably .
I would attach the shed roof to a solid 2x6 framing bolted to the ends of the trusses using metal roof ties or overlap and laminate the shed rafter along side the top truss chord , whichever you prefer . The shed roof is a great way to pick up low cost additional floor space ,so you might want to consider running on down both sides .
Which direction do your storms come in from ? Give that a lot of thought also . A barn door that is constantly getting buried with snow is a pain to keep clear when a little preplanning could have made life easier .
While your at it look at how drainage will flow away from the barn. This is critical if you plan to use it for livestock . And lastly look and consider the placement verus solar angle .
Look at the old "great barns" that are still standing and operational after a hundred years you will notice that all these barns had one thing in common . Great preplanning ! Those old ranchers and farmers were pretty smart !
There is a great book to help you elimiate making mistakes and you might try to locate one to borrow to study . DON'T even think of buying one as they are super costly . Mine cost over $700 dollars . They are the Bible for architects . It is called "Architectual Graphics Standards" A college should have one that you may be able to use ,but I bet you cannot leave the architectual class room with it as was the case when I studied in college .
If you are planning on boarding horses , a whole new set of perameters must be considered .
Make a 1/4" to 1/2" scale model out of Balsa wood so you can play with your design a little . Its easy , cheap and you can get the wood at any hobby shop . Make the roof removable so you can remove it to study how you want the interior walls, doors ,windows etc, to be used to your best advantage . Cut scaled down "paper cut outs" of tractor ,equipment ,hay, animals, etc to make sure you have the most efficent design for your needs . A great way to spend a wet ,cold afternoon !
A roll up or sectional door is a great way to go but they are not as tough as the old sliding barn door style . Easy to insulate but don't handle a ill temper kick or bump from an animal as well .
Have Fun !
Allen
You are right on the money as far as side wall height . It is 9 ' tall .The roof pitch is 6/12 as 7/12 is not a commonly used roof pitch in barn design architecture inless this was designed by somone other than a designer or architect . The Cupola roof is 12/12 or less on this particular barn . The Cupola is small ,so the designer was able to get away with this roof pitch and still bring the building into a appealing prospective . It serve no function other than looks ,I believe , from looking at this picture. I see no gable end venting of any kind which leads me to believe that cross ventilation was not considered in design . I will bet you money the that if a truss was used there is no "loft area" as most trusses are on 24" centers with diagonal cross webbing chords for roof strength depending on the required Snow Load rating . Again I would bet that the hay loft door above is fake and for looks only . Trusses are wonderful but not for Barns ,where a loft is needed in the attic area . At least not with a common "Gable" truss as this appears to be .A "Grambel" truss design would be much better suited but even it would eat up a lot of floor space in the loft area . Of course this would also raise your roof construction cost considerably .
I would attach the shed roof to a solid 2x6 framing bolted to the ends of the trusses using metal roof ties or overlap and laminate the shed rafter along side the top truss chord , whichever you prefer . The shed roof is a great way to pick up low cost additional floor space ,so you might want to consider running on down both sides .
Which direction do your storms come in from ? Give that a lot of thought also . A barn door that is constantly getting buried with snow is a pain to keep clear when a little preplanning could have made life easier .
While your at it look at how drainage will flow away from the barn. This is critical if you plan to use it for livestock . And lastly look and consider the placement verus solar angle .
Look at the old "great barns" that are still standing and operational after a hundred years you will notice that all these barns had one thing in common . Great preplanning ! Those old ranchers and farmers were pretty smart !
There is a great book to help you elimiate making mistakes and you might try to locate one to borrow to study . DON'T even think of buying one as they are super costly . Mine cost over $700 dollars . They are the Bible for architects . It is called "Architectual Graphics Standards" A college should have one that you may be able to use ,but I bet you cannot leave the architectual class room with it as was the case when I studied in college .
If you are planning on boarding horses , a whole new set of perameters must be considered .
Make a 1/4" to 1/2" scale model out of Balsa wood so you can play with your design a little . Its easy , cheap and you can get the wood at any hobby shop . Make the roof removable so you can remove it to study how you want the interior walls, doors ,windows etc, to be used to your best advantage . Cut scaled down "paper cut outs" of tractor ,equipment ,hay, animals, etc to make sure you have the most efficent design for your needs . A great way to spend a wet ,cold afternoon !
A roll up or sectional door is a great way to go but they are not as tough as the old sliding barn door style . Easy to insulate but don't handle a ill temper kick or bump from an animal as well .
Have Fun !
Allen
bugstruck
Platinum Member
I agree with those observations. Good advice and comment on every item you listed IMO. Eddie contributes huge here, as most know, and his ideas are as practical as they get. Refreshing and straight forward, even for the TBN world where some like.. WAH.. get a bit more technical than needed at times. Thanks Eddie!!
bugstruck
Platinum Member
So you got the hay loft door position too? That speaks. I'm just taking a break on this one guys. You just don't need me this time around. Not a crumb to add. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
thanks alot! The "loft" would just be for storage, so basically the upper door is just for looks and limited access. The copula would also be just for looks. I figured the style would look good out in the country, it's just for a extra garage/work shop, so no animals at this time (they cost more to feed than a tractor, right??). Originally was going to go with the gambriel style to have a studio/loft area, but deciding I wouldn't use it enough to justify the cost. If I win the lottery before building, that's the way I'm going to go though...
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KevinMcD
Bronze Member
lmiller
Bronze Member
Inversek
Nice approach, just wanted to add my .02$
The door height is almost guaranteed to be 6'8" and the width will be an even number of inches as well. I think that the shed on the right is at least the same height if not a bit taller, say 7 feet.
I wonder if that would change your estimate of the roof pitch, although I agree with the consensus that it looks like 6/12.
Lou
Nice approach, just wanted to add my .02$
The door height is almost guaranteed to be 6'8" and the width will be an even number of inches as well. I think that the shed on the right is at least the same height if not a bit taller, say 7 feet.
I wonder if that would change your estimate of the roof pitch, although I agree with the consensus that it looks like 6/12.
Lou