For Grapple, Diverter setup or Rear remote?

[jinman]

The diverter is by far the most elegant setup. Since you don't have rear remotes available, I think I'd do the diverter. I have three rear remotes and opted to run hoses forward, but if I ddn't have the remotes, I'd have gone with the diverter.

BTW: I recommend 1/4" hoses and a 0.030 orifice to the grapple. It really makes a big difference in control. I can run my grapple really slow or fast because I'm controlling the flow so closely. The 1/4" hoses will also balloon less and your grapple will hold it's grip much better if your diverter holds a good seal.

 

[LeRoi]

I have the WR Long diverter setup for grapple and 4n1 bucket and I can recommend it without reservations. You can open/close, raise/lower and curl/uncurl all at the same time without removing your hand from the loader control.
I have used my grapple almost exclusively since I purchased my tractor and I have no complaints about the solenoid valve to control the grapple.
HTH
Leroy

 

[Highbeam]

"You can open/close, raise/lower and curl/uncurl all at the same time"

Not if you have a diverter. You must divert a function so you lose one of those from the list at any one time. But I will agree that you get the pleasure of leaving your hand on the knob all the time.

 

[TechJ]

I went the route of longer lines as I had 3 valves with one of them already connected to an electric diverter in the rear.

Still not cheap as I used the nylon non-abrasive sleeving...total cost was about $200.

If I didn't have the diverter in the read I woudl have gone with one on the loader side so that I wouldn't lose the rear implement valve.

 

[PineRidge]

My vote is for the Electric Diverter also. It's a lot handier than taking your hand off the joy-stick.

 

[Gumby6]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Not if you have a diverter. You must divert a function so you lose one of those from the list at any one time. )</font>

I have an electric solenoid controlled 3rd function on my loader control. One handle controls all.

I have yet to use it on a grapple as it is new and I am waiting on the grapple implement. But, the way this was explained to me by the hydraulics mechanic at the dealer. He installed the hydraulic control after the primary loader functions, using power beyond secondary(?) to supply the valve. He indicated that I would not lose function of the lift and curl on the FEL, but the amount of power left for the 3rd function depended on the requirements of the first 2 functions. If the lift/curl functions aren't too demanding the grapple (3rd function) should have sufficient pressure to also operate.

It remains to be seen (in operation), but he seemed to know his business.

This may not be the same as a "diverter" although they function similarly by electric control. I would think it makes a big difference where the flow originates.

For reference I have the Woods 1009 loader on a NH TC30.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Hoiya LeRoi -

Hey, maybe you don't have a diverter, but a dedicated hydraulic solenoid for powering your grapple cylinders. With all due deference to what some others have stated here, a diverter is not quite as convenient as a hydraulic solenoid controlled by an electric switch. There is one less step involved in controlling the grapple, and you don't lose any functions, at least not 100%. With a dedicated solenoid setup, you're obviously going to be taking some hydraulic power away from the rest of the system when you're operating your grapple cylinders, but no one function is going to be completely unavailable to you.

Cost? Still less than a remote.

Food for thought contained in:

Remotes and Top and Tilt?

To grapple or not to grapple?

5030 "skidder" pics - the "tree-bota" in action

 

[jpm]

another way is if you have a power beyond port you can get
a 1,2 or 3 spool valve to run the grapple for way less than
$500. and more ports for other things