heavy rust removal (sandblasting)
- Thread starter crazymike
- Start date
Paddy
Veteran Member
As with any thing, what's your time worth and what's it worth now and when your done.
I'd set a time to put in to it, say one/two days. An air powered die grinder with 36 grit will do alot. If it is 1/4"+, youv'e got many, many years before you will have a problem..if you did nothing.
Hit the bad spots and paint it. If you can buy in this condidtion for $5k and new is $10k, nice redone has to be $7.5k. Don't put 2 weeks and much $$ for $2.5k. A 'Sherwin Williams paint' remo won't make it perform beter, but it will make you feel better.
I'd set a time to put in to it, say one/two days. An air powered die grinder with 36 grit will do alot. If it is 1/4"+, youv'e got many, many years before you will have a problem..if you did nothing.
Hit the bad spots and paint it. If you can buy in this condidtion for $5k and new is $10k, nice redone has to be $7.5k. Don't put 2 weeks and much $$ for $2.5k. A 'Sherwin Williams paint' remo won't make it perform beter, but it will make you feel better.
Trailer looks nice.
Horse urine is extremely corrisive. It eats through everything and anything.
I work with horses all day everyday. A good pair of boots will only last a few months in and out of stalls. They get eaten away.
I was going to paint the entire thing with implement paint. I think it's oil based, goes on thick and helps prevent rust. Comes in primer and top coat.
Horse urine is extremely corrisive. It eats through everything and anything.
I work with horses all day everyday. A good pair of boots will only last a few months in and out of stalls. They get eaten away.
I was going to paint the entire thing with implement paint. I think it's oil based, goes on thick and helps prevent rust. Comes in primer and top coat.
I should also mention, they are extremely hard to find.
I would say there are maybe 1000 in existance in North America. And even that is pushing it.
And, there is only 1-2 companies making them right now and it's special order only.
Basically, they are next to impossible to find. So even if it took me a year to restore these, it would take me longer to find a good set in similar condition.
The problem with the die grinder is that some of the steel tubing is channeled (grooved, like a [ shape. I can't remember the name of that type of steel tubing. But it would be hard to disc or even wire brush.
I would say there are maybe 1000 in existance in North America. And even that is pushing it.
And, there is only 1-2 companies making them right now and it's special order only.
Basically, they are next to impossible to find. So even if it took me a year to restore these, it would take me longer to find a good set in similar condition.
The problem with the die grinder is that some of the steel tubing is channeled (grooved, like a [ shape. I can't remember the name of that type of steel tubing. But it would be hard to disc or even wire brush.
Spiffy
Veteran Member
I'm far from an expert, but haven't had good luck with "TSC" type implement paint holding up. OK results with Rustoleum.
If anybody wants me to look it up I can find the numbers of the stuff on that horse trailer, but that thing gets the widest variety of nasty conditions, yet has held up better than anything else I've painted (there again, I only have a few things to compare it too). I think most quality coatings (if matched to the application) do pretty well though.
The blaster will do alright with the contoured steel, but you'll appreciate the mask and gloves even more! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If anybody wants me to look it up I can find the numbers of the stuff on that horse trailer, but that thing gets the widest variety of nasty conditions, yet has held up better than anything else I've painted (there again, I only have a few things to compare it too). I think most quality coatings (if matched to the application) do pretty well though.
The blaster will do alright with the contoured steel, but you'll appreciate the mask and gloves even more! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
rambler
Veteran Member
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- Ford 960, 7700, TW20, 1720; IHC H, 300; Ollie S77
I take it you are totally opposed to the chemical processes - not dipping & stripping, but the rust converters? That is typically better for manure type applications - it sets up a protective coating, chemically changing the surface rust to a protective coating. Many companies sell it.
--->Paul
--->Paul
theonlybull
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
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personally, i would get someone else to sandblast it ( i do over 2000 lbs of sand a year) it's dirty, hot, hard to do, and takes a lot of $$ invested to get a good job.
next, a good epoxy primer ( bars-rust 235 is what we use, from devo, industrial 2 part primer) then, seal any seams with automotive seam sealer. next, top coat with a good quality 2 part polyurethane paint. this will hold up well, and give you a lasting piece of equipment.
with all those square tubes, it will be a pain to sand blast, and paint. i would also drill a small drain hole at the bottom of any closed in tubes, and drill a 1/2" hole near the top, then spray in some automotive undercoating, to prevent rust from the inside.
next, a good epoxy primer ( bars-rust 235 is what we use, from devo, industrial 2 part primer) then, seal any seams with automotive seam sealer. next, top coat with a good quality 2 part polyurethane paint. this will hold up well, and give you a lasting piece of equipment.
with all those square tubes, it will be a pain to sand blast, and paint. i would also drill a small drain hole at the bottom of any closed in tubes, and drill a 1/2" hole near the top, then spray in some automotive undercoating, to prevent rust from the inside.
SPIKER
Elite Member
I hooked up the old computer & ere is some of the links for ya
http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html
http://www.oldengine.org/members/billd/electrol.htm
these sites have a TON of links withing not sure if they are all still good but they are a welth of rust removal info in a way most noone knows about.
mark M /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html
http://www.oldengine.org/members/billd/electrol.htm
these sites have a TON of links withing not sure if they are all still good but they are a welth of rust removal info in a way most noone knows about.
mark M /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif