Darn wall isn't "flat", rip out? other ideas?

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

I might want to clarify, they'd fall inside my shelf space if I used one on each side, which is my current thought. If one alone is sufficient, then it might be ok (but I'd still prefer the integrity of the shelf wall intact)

 

[BubbaJr]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

If I understand the problem right and, it's bowed out away from the wall, and the rest of the studs are against the wall, you could drill a hole through the stud and into the wall. Then attach a wall anchor into the wall. Then drill a countersunk hole in the front of the stud with a forstner bit (so you have a hole with a flat bottom for the washer), slip a washer on a bolt and bolt the stud to the wall pulling the stud back flush to the wall. Depending on how bad it is, you may need more than one bolt.

If I've managed to get the problem totally turned around, please disregard. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

PS. Looking back it would be better to drill the countersunk hole first, then drill through to the wall.

 

[gsganzer]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

This is why I don't use pressure treated for anything, unless it's in direct ground contact. I built a beautiful set of planters for our patio using PT lumber. They looked great for about 8 weeks, until they shrunk, warped, twisted and checked. The next time I'll build my planters with cedar.

Good luck with the shower. Take a sawzall to the offending stud. It'll give you some satisfaction to know that you ended his twisted life /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Take a sawzall to the offending stud. It'll give you some satisfaction to know that you ended his twisted life . )</font>

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Bubba... !!! excellent idea for me to try. Instead of me cranking it all down at one time, I can perhaps gently crank it down over a bit while I work on other things & not stress it too much...

I wonder what the odds are of pulling out a chunk of the block wall? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

SOME of the block wall webs have concrete poured into them. I'd be REAL lucky if concrete was poured into the middle blocks instead of just the ends. Might be worth looking into.

Gads, ain't this place great!

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Marlowe]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

I like the sawzall idea. There's not much that can't be persuaded with a good sawzall, big sledge, or both.

Treated lumber will bite you, that's for sure. I've got a fence post that warped over an inch after I installed it. And, as luck would have it, it's on the gate.

I'm also guilty of overbuilding things. It's just a shower wall. Scabbing a board in after cutting it will be plenty strong. I did a project like this one recently in my bedroom shower. It's amazing how solid those walls are afer the durock and ceramic are in place.

 

[EddieWalker]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Richard,

It's a non load bearing wall.

It's there as a place to attach things to.

There is no reason the stud needs to be full length.

Cut it in half, and either attach it to the wall or scab another to the side of it.

Not only does PT wood warp and twist, but all construction grade lumber does too. It's very common to have a wall stud warp on you a few days after it's up. The pallet they come in keeps them straight, but the ones that will warp do so after a few days. You either take it out and toenail in a new one, or cut in half and scab a new one to the side. This is very, very common.

Eddie

 

[WhyNot]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

I was thinking along the lines of Bubba but, using chimney strap around the stud and then drilling a hole into the concrete on each side of the stud and securing the strap to the wall with those expandable concrete anchor's that you pound in (not sure of the name). You could do all the studs that are against a wall and not have to worry about them once the wall's are finished. But then again Bubba's way maybe easier /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[2nstonge]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Scribe a pencil line along the side of it to show where it should be 'flush with other studs' then take a sawzall and simply cut along that line and scab another board to the side of it. Meatball surgery, it ain't pretty but it's quick and works really well (I do it every day).

-Norm

 

[chucko]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

rule a line donw it to see how far it is out and plane it to the line. Cutting it is bad idea with heat and mousture the wood will want to move at the cut. If I did cut it a would screw and gule it real good


edit....thinking again if you do cut and scab it you exposes end grain this is were the most mostue can get into wood and in the middle the least treatment is there. So if I were to cut it I would cut it leaving a good 1/4 inch space so swealing would not push the two ends into each other then scab both sides