Darn wall isn't "flat", rip out? other ideas?

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Took more pics tonight (6) with some closeups.

This one is of the wall with the "problem" child in the center. the can of Coke is on the shelf that we're putting in there. The roll of paper is for my sinus issues... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

This pic doesn't show it very well but I put the 4' level across the wall

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Couldn't find my tape measure so put a pencil there for a reference. I think it's about 1/2 inch, maybe bit more.

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

These were not literally touching the wall so a gap here didn't bother me. (I focused on getting them flush with face of the bottom plate). Perhaps when I can put my hand through this I might have a larger issue... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[Richard]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Just thought of something else...

Perhaps I can cut it in two, TRY to scab some boards to each side & bolt them together (won't the treated lumber shrink, ie, the bolts loosen up as it dries?)

Anyways, I'm thinking I can try that angle and if it isn't going to work, I could possibly yank it out and replace it with a 2x4 instead of a 2x6. That would give me some more room to work. I could reframe (or reinforce) the planned shelf.

I told the wife once I saw this that I was really bumming because I just knew it was going to be a real pain in the hiney.

/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[bota7800]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

One place I built homes had me cut some studs partway through to straighten the walls for drywall. As an engineering student I was not crazy about this (we even did it on loadbearing walls) For a nonload-bearing wall it is a fine technique if done right. We did not make a triangular cut as discussed above. Here is what we did:


1. Cut a saw kerf no more than 2/3 through the stud (-- You might try less at first)

2. Using a stud as a brace - like you do to shift a wall out to plumb it - push the stud below the kerf until the stud is in line with the other studs.


3. Use plywood scabs on each side glued and nailed (or, these days, screwed) across the cut. Make the scabs out of 3/4 in CDX about 16 inches long or so.

Don't use dimensional for the scabs, you want stability in more directions and you don't want splitting with the grain.


I never did anywhere close to a 1" bow however. I would have replaced one that bad.

 

[rlk]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Richard, why not run 2 x 2 material horizontally, and notch the 2 x 2 around the bowed stud, and any other stud that is not in perfect alignment? I would run 2 x 2s every 16 inches from the bottom to the ceiling. Screw the 2 x 2's to each stud.

This will give you a flat surface to attach the duroc to, and will only cost you 1.5 inches of shower space.

Plus, it's a whole lot less work than removing the bowed stud, or sawing the bowed stud lengthwise. This will also give you a VERY strong wall.

Bob

 

[LarryD]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Along the same line as gotrocks, we used to set the circular saw to 45º and cut half way through. Then drive a nail to take up the space and pull the stud together. Be sure to use an 1/8" blade for maximum effectiveness.

I don't think we ever had a full inch to take up so you might have to make a couple cuts at high points as you go. A good straight edge from top plate to sill will show the high points.

Of course sawzall with a demo blade will get that out with minimal skin loss. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Richard,

I like the plywood on either side if you really want to overkill it and put more energy into this. It's a simple fix that you can spend allot of time messing with, or just get it done and finish off your project.

As for cutting it or planing it down, this wont stop it from future warping. Some wood will keep moving until it totally dries out.

Worrying about end grain in the middle of the wall is a bit extreme. I guess if you use PT wood on an interior, non load bearing wall with 2x10 blocking, you might worry about it, but you'll be long gone before it's an issue.

Most home repairs I've done in bathrooms are from wood under tub drains that have been leaking for 40 years or more. It takes allot of time to rot through untreated wood in a wall.

Fastening the stud to the wall and bending it back into place might work. It might also cause stress at other places. Twisting boards is usally allot of effort with poor results. Most times I toss the warped ones into a scrap pile as soon as I come across them. Cut them into blocking is a good use for them.

Hope your having fun,
Eddie

 

[B8FISH]

Re: Darn wall isn\'t \"flat\", rip out? other ideas?

Richard--are the cross braces away from the wall as well? If they are, I think I would try the concrete anchor suggestions first (does the offending stud move at all if you push on it??) I think that if you go after gradually--1/8 inch at a time, you could bring back to level with it's neighbors. If the cross braces are screwed in, it might be easier to take them out first to relieve some of the extra stresses. Good luck.