Relay question for ROPS lights

   / Relay question for ROPS lights #1  

5030tinkerer

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
432
Location
Iowa
Tractor
Kubota GL3830/GL5030
I want to add ROPS lights that generally can only be turned on when the key is in the on position. My Kubota L5030 has a 7.5 amp feed circuit to connect a work light that is only energized when the key is in the "On" position. I have run a 10 gauge stranded wire with a 30 amp inline fuse from the battery to a single pole single throw relay mounted under the dash and have tied in to the 7.5amp work light circuit to energize the coil, but now need the lights to be switch activated. Plans are to have two switches (one controlling four 55W lights to the front and one controlling two 55w lights to the rear). Do I need a second pole single throw relay for each of these switches or can I get to this functionality with a different relay type and avoid having umpteen relays (don't know where to mount more than one without drilling)? I see that there are double pole single throw relays, single pole double throw, and even triple pole and four pole relays out there, but don't know the difference or if using these even fits the bill. Can someone fill me in? I suppose IDEALLY I'd even like the option of running one or more of these lights without a key in the ignition, but don't want a parasitic load on my battery keeping a coil activated all the time and would like to require some other sort of additional user function to make this work, like sticking the key in the ignition, turning it to the "On" position, and then turning on the lights again within some given time period (allows use without enabling someone without a key to turn my lights on for me). Can you tell that I know enough to be dangerous? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Has anyone yet tested the current output of their 60amp alternator on their 5030 HST to determine just how much of a light load can be handled? I am also toying with the idea of moving to four lights for the rear, but know that doing that will require a heavier relay and feed wire (I figure a 3.93 amp load for each 55w light at 14 volts). I plan on temporarily hooking up my six lights at once tonight to see what that does to the voltage reading at the battery when the engine is running at idle and at a working RPM.
 
   / Relay question for ROPS lights #2  
Your SAFEST bet is to get another 30 amp relay.
-Run the #10 from the battery to both relays #30 terminal.
-Run #12 or #14 to the lights from the #87 terminal on the corresponding relay.
-Run your existing 7.5a worklight circuit through your single pole switches, then to the #85 terminal on the corresponding relay.
-Run a ground lead to the #85 terminal on both relays.


Your other idea to control the lights with the key off would be very complicated, and IMHO a bad idea. You really do not want six 50 watt lights on without the tractor running!


Hope this is the info you need /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Relay question for ROPS lights #3  
A relay with a 30 amp rated contact is one heavy duty relay. Is your relay really rated that high? A 4 pole relay simply means the relay has 4 separate contacts. You would probably be better off to get a 4 pole relay and operate 1 light off each pole. That way you are only running about 4-5 amps thru each contact. Even at that, you need to make sure the relay contacts are rated for 5 amps or more make/break. DC voltage is tough on contacts.
 
   / Relay question for ROPS lights #4  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A relay with a 30 amp rated contact is one heavy duty relay. Is your relay really rated that high? A 4 pole relay simply means the relay has 4 separate contacts. You would probably be better off to get a 4 pole relay and operate 1 light off each pole. That way you are only running about 4-5 amps thru each contact. Even at that, you need to make sure the relay contacts are rated for 5 amps or more make/break. DC voltage is tough on contacts. )</font>

In KenneyD's defense you have been given some sound advice. Today you can purchase a heavy duty 30 amp 12 volt DC relay for as little as $2.75 each, so why not use them? I have used these same relays on my own New Holland and they are very reliable.

Get your 30 amp relays here
 
   / Relay question for ROPS lights #5  
Yup,
30 Amp relays are cheap, easy to wire, and easy to find at any auto parts store.
Using 4 pole relays would be a waste of $$$ IMHO.
 
   / Relay question for ROPS lights #6  
that link that Mike (aka pineridge) posted is good, I would get the FR12 units: they are single pole single through with 2 output poles by the looks of the relay dia out to the right side of it.

then hook up the 2 single through switches to the KEY hot wire comming from the existing light switch, mount the 2 switches on the dash, use 2 of the relays which would be turned ON by the 2 new switches, (I suggest some lighted rocker style switches but some cheap ole toggle switches would work too.

run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to a 30 amp fuse then through the fuse to the POLE of each relay, go from the switched legs of each relay to each light you want to run and tie a good ground wire back to the battery or make sure a good anti corrosion coumpound is used to ground the lights and the relay coils.

I can't quite read the contact numbers too well in the photo link but it looks like the toggle switch will go to pole number 85 and ground to pole # 86 while the 30 amp fused 10 gauge wire would go to pole #30 and the lights one each to pole #87

you can put a smaller fuse 1 amp inline between the existing light switch (key on hot) and the toggel switches to protect the lighting system from a shorted wire or bad relay problem...

mark M /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
 
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