Need structural advice for tractor shed.

   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #21  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm guessing that the tractor plus mower would be at least 15' long so I'd need it to be at least that deep.)</font>

Are you including the FEL in that length. If so I'd guess your tractor plus FEL & mower would be a good bit more than 15'. My L3130 with FEL and 5' Woods box blade is 17'.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #22  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm guessing that the tractor plus mower would be at least 15' long so I'd need it to be at least that deep.)</font>

Are you including the FEL in that length. If so I'd guess your tractor plus FEL & mower would be a good bit more than 15'. My L3130 with FEL and 5' Woods box blade is 17'.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #23  
Very similar to how we built my 32x40 shed. I used a 2x6 on the inside of the posts to set the trusses on, and a 2x8 on the outside to nail the ends of the trusses into. The top of the 2x6 was flush with the bottom of the 2x8. Also put a small piece of 2x6 vertically between the 2x6 & 2x8 at each truss and nailed in there for additional support.

We laid our purlins flat on top of the trusses, so the joist hangers wouldn't work. 4/12 roof slope is easy enough for a novice to work on without feeling TOOO uneasy.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #24  
Very similar to how we built my 32x40 shed. I used a 2x6 on the inside of the posts to set the trusses on, and a 2x8 on the outside to nail the ends of the trusses into. The top of the 2x6 was flush with the bottom of the 2x8. Also put a small piece of 2x6 vertically between the 2x6 & 2x8 at each truss and nailed in there for additional support.

We laid our purlins flat on top of the trusses, so the joist hangers wouldn't work. 4/12 roof slope is easy enough for a novice to work on without feeling TOOO uneasy.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed.
  • Thread Starter
#25  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Are you including the FEL in that length. If so I'd guess your tractor plus FEL & mower would be a good bit more than 15'. My L3130 with FEL and 5' Woods box blade is 17'. )</font>

I'll have to get the tape measure out. Isuspect my L4400 is about the same as 3130 but the mower will add even more length. If its 20', plans will have to change.

As far as the roof pitch, I haven't determined it yet. I'm not fond of heights but this shed will only need to be high enough in the front for the ROPS to clear comfortably. I put the roof on my cabin myself and even though I hate being up that high I can do it. But the cabin was a kit. All the engineering was done for me. That's my main deficiency at this point but I'm still early in the planning stage and I greatly appreciate all the advice.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed.
  • Thread Starter
#26  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Are you including the FEL in that length. If so I'd guess your tractor plus FEL & mower would be a good bit more than 15'. My L3130 with FEL and 5' Woods box blade is 17'. )</font>

I'll have to get the tape measure out. Isuspect my L4400 is about the same as 3130 but the mower will add even more length. If its 20', plans will have to change.

As far as the roof pitch, I haven't determined it yet. I'm not fond of heights but this shed will only need to be high enough in the front for the ROPS to clear comfortably. I put the roof on my cabin myself and even though I hate being up that high I can do it. But the cabin was a kit. All the engineering was done for me. That's my main deficiency at this point but I'm still early in the planning stage and I greatly appreciate all the advice.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #27  
We built a shed barn using 4x6 PT posts on 12 ft centers, the bays are 12 ft wide. Lag double 2x10s to the 4x6 posts, they span the 12 ft. I then would carriage bolting them togeather for additional strength. Then we used 2x8's, to sit on top of the doubled 2x10s. We laid 2x4's flat on top of that to support the tin. It is 26 x 46. You can save some $ on checking for std size metal at Lowes. Last summer it cost us about $2500. If you need pictures I can try to get some.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #28  
We built a shed barn using 4x6 PT posts on 12 ft centers, the bays are 12 ft wide. Lag double 2x10s to the 4x6 posts, they span the 12 ft. I then would carriage bolting them togeather for additional strength. Then we used 2x8's, to sit on top of the doubled 2x10s. We laid 2x4's flat on top of that to support the tin. It is 26 x 46. You can save some $ on checking for std size metal at Lowes. Last summer it cost us about $2500. If you need pictures I can try to get some.
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #29  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
I'll have to get the tape measure out. Isuspect my L4400 is about the same as 3130 but the mower will add even more length. If its 20', plans will have to change.

As far as the roof pitch, I haven't determined it yet. I'm not fond of heights but this shed will only need to be high enough in the front for the ROPS to clear comfortably. I put the roof on my cabin myself and even though I hate being up that high I can do it. But the cabin was a kit. All the engineering was done for me. That's my main deficiency at this point but I'm still early in the planning stage and I greatly appreciate all the advice. )</font>

Be careful on this. You are spending _some_ money on a shed. Please build it to grow a bit with you, and not be a waste of money 5 years from now....

Dad built a couple machine sheds to fit the machinery in them that he had at the time. They are worthless waste now - nothing fits in them.

You are building kinda small to start with, and when you talk about making the roof slant 'just big enough' for the tractor you currently own..... What happens when you get something different in 5 years?

I need to struggle & skimp as well, so I understand.

But if you can't afford to put up a big enough, comfortable shed that will let you grow a bit......

Maybe time to pull back & take stock, & see if you could afford what you need in 12 months or so. And then have something good that will last you.

I see some danger signals in your messages here - you are trying to get by on such a shoestring, that you will end up with a poor building that won't be worth the little you spent on it.

How do I know? How will the others who agree with me here know?

Been there, done that.

Just trying to help. You really need to make something useable; not just really cheap.

--->Paul
 
   / Need structural advice for tractor shed. #30  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
I'll have to get the tape measure out. Isuspect my L4400 is about the same as 3130 but the mower will add even more length. If its 20', plans will have to change.

As far as the roof pitch, I haven't determined it yet. I'm not fond of heights but this shed will only need to be high enough in the front for the ROPS to clear comfortably. I put the roof on my cabin myself and even though I hate being up that high I can do it. But the cabin was a kit. All the engineering was done for me. That's my main deficiency at this point but I'm still early in the planning stage and I greatly appreciate all the advice. )</font>

Be careful on this. You are spending _some_ money on a shed. Please build it to grow a bit with you, and not be a waste of money 5 years from now....

Dad built a couple machine sheds to fit the machinery in them that he had at the time. They are worthless waste now - nothing fits in them.

You are building kinda small to start with, and when you talk about making the roof slant 'just big enough' for the tractor you currently own..... What happens when you get something different in 5 years?

I need to struggle & skimp as well, so I understand.

But if you can't afford to put up a big enough, comfortable shed that will let you grow a bit......

Maybe time to pull back & take stock, & see if you could afford what you need in 12 months or so. And then have something good that will last you.

I see some danger signals in your messages here - you are trying to get by on such a shoestring, that you will end up with a poor building that won't be worth the little you spent on it.

How do I know? How will the others who agree with me here know?

Been there, done that.

Just trying to help. You really need to make something useable; not just really cheap.

--->Paul
 
 
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