Pushing in New Roads and Trails

[3RRL]

Last weekend Loretta and I went up to the property for 4 days. We were going to spend Thursday and Friday looking for windows and doors and meet with the contractor. We were also having a neighborhood street cleaning work day to maintain the private paved road we share. We got everything done early so that left some time for me to create some new dirt roads and trails on the West side of the property.

That area, about 15 acres or so, is very wooded and has lots of gullies and arroyos throughout it. It is particularly secluded from the rest of the property because of that. We wanted a decent jeep & ATV trail that would open that part up for easier access. We also wanted some cleared trails for our evening walks so we don't have to hike through the dead fall, stickers and rocks at night.

So I started to cut a trail into that area from our main road.

 

[3RRL]

You may have noticed the large rock out cropping next to the Kama in the last photo? I soon found out the entire area was ladened with rocks and boulders! Avoiding the big ones was easy, but that wasn't the case in most areas. As soon as I cut below the dead grass, I would pop out a big rock or boulder. Then when I went to clean it up, I popped out more! It soon became obvious that I might not be able to cut into the slopes to level the road as much as i wanted to. I would have to carefully remove the rocks and replace the holes with as much dirt as I could find.

Aside from the steep slope in this gully, there were many rocks visible in the area near the West border where I wanted the trail to be. I knew it was going to be pretty tough on the tractor. Some of you may have already seen the thread about the field repair I had to do when I broke a tie rod end out here.

 

[3RRL]

This is a view of the opposite bank. I am going to cut a road through this gully using the fel and the boxblade from where the tractor was in the last photo.




This is what the road looks like working my way down from the top. Normally I would cut at more of an angle going down the slope but the rocks made it very, very hard to cut into the side of the hill. Instead, I tried to reduce the steepness by rolling the rocks down hill and pushing as much dirt over them as possible.




I did most of the road cutting in reverse using the back of my boxblade as a dozer blade. I knew I would end up bending one or both of my lower drag links doing this. After the rocks were exposed, I turned around and either pushed them with the fel or used the grapple to move them.

 

[3RRL]

I used the back grade method for a couple of reasons. I felt much safer grading backwards in reverse. Whenever I hit a big boulder, it would either slow down or stop the tractor. That gave me a "wall" and allowed me to pull forward (up) and reposition. I also avoided the biggest boulders I could see.

On the next attempt, I would push some dirt down with me and fill the hole. What this did is it created a safer, more level area (already cut) for my tires to be on. I had all kinds of control with my new hydraulic side links to cut as I wanted. I didn't want to risk doing it with the fel because it was too easy to drive forward, down the hill and maybe run over a boulder that would flip me over!

Here's a photo Loretta took as I was working the other side of the gully. Some of the boulders I took out were the size of a baby VW.




Another view of the opposite bank. You can see to the right how I wanted to cut across the bank sideways but gave up. Now it's going to be a fun roller coaster ride for the Blazer and ATV!

 

[3RRL]

Now here's a view from that opposite bank I was working. You might not be able to see how steep it really is. This part of the road is nearly done for now.



Here is the same view a little farther down. You can clearly see the difference in the dirt coming from different banks.



That Kama is one powerful tractor. I ended up breaking the tie rod end off when I got the fronts wedged over some boulders. I also bent the crap out of the 1" x 4" thick lower drag links. Also scraped all the nuts and bolts off of Pat's EZ Change system but it stayed on and held. The tractor had tons of torque and traction and I actually saw the lower lift arms bend before I could jam the clutch in. This happend while I was still on top of the first bank! Not bent enough to stop it from working though. I managed to finish what you saw with them bent like that.



Thought I'd share with you guys some more pics of my property and work there.
Thanks for looking...
Rob-

 

[Egon]

Neat! Nice pictures.

I have made a few trails out at "The Farm" but using a much smaller tractor and no box blade, only a rear blade.

We also have an ocasional rock. Slate/Granite/clay drumlin deposit on slate bedrock.

I had to work downhill with the bucket. On the side hills I'd get a level pad to start from and the just keep working down keeping the track level by cutting the side hill and filling on the downside.

 

[EddieWalker]

Hey Rob,

Nice job on your trails. I had the impression from your first post that this was gonna be a quick, easy fun little project that you're doing just to enjoy the afternoon. Then as I read along, it turned into a battle of machine and the terrain!!! Good to see you won, but the battle scars are fun too!!! hahaha

Do you think your trails will function as a fire break of any kind? I don't know how big something like that has to be, but I have trails around my place and when it gets to fire season, I make sure they are cleared.

Thanks for the fun read,
Eddie

 

[MikeB44]

I used the back grade method for a couple of reasons. I felt much safer grading backwards in reverse. Whenever I hit a big boulder, it would either slow down or stop the tractor. That gave me a "wall" and allowed me to pull forward (up) and reposition. I also avoided the biggest boulders I could see.

On the next attempt, I would push some dirt down with me and fill the hole. What this did is it created a safer, more level area (already cut) for my tires to be on. I had all kinds of control with my new hydraulic side links to cut as I wanted. I didn't want to risk doing it with the fel because it was too easy to drive forward, down the hill and maybe run over a boulder that would flip me over!

Rob,

Thanks for the safety tip on going slow and steady down a hill. I was asked today about clearing a riding trail. I hadn't thought about something close to the surface stopping the tractor. (A tractor doing a handstand on it's FEL is not a pretty picture or thought.)

Mike

 

[3RRL]

Thank you for the nice compliments, I was hoping you'd like the pictures. I always enjoy seeing pictures of what you all are doing on your property.

I don't think the roads and trials are wide enough to act as a fire break. I think (maybe wrong) they need to be around 30' wide to be successful? These are only 8' to 10' wide at best. I think it also depends whether there are trees or just grasses. I am going to repair those battle scars at home.

The safety aspect is important, especially when you combine steep slopes and uneven, rocky terrain. It makes for an accident waiting to happen....a recipe for disaster. Using the fel bucket I have "skipped" over some rocks and they end up under the tires. The bucket is also way out in front of you so you can't always see whether you actually picked up the boulder or not. The box blade is right under your nose and you can see what is happening there. I know being turned around for hours may seem like a real pain, but when you don't have a bulldozer, you have to make due. My seatbelt was strapped very tight the entire time and I could barely turn to see my backwards work. But NO WAY was I going to loosen it!.

Again, with the boxblade and tilting hydraulic cylinders, I could cut the road, keeping it level and stable. Most important thing is my tires were then on the "level" already cut part. It made a huge difference in how I felt when operating. When climbing up the opposite steep slope just to get on top so I could start cutting downwards, it was still scary running over many of those rock outcroppings.

 

[johnk]

That were sure some steep slopes. It had to be quite hairy going up them. I don't mind coming down them because You can always drop the box blade to steady you. Going up is what scares me.. Good job...

 

[3RRL]

Anyway, I decided to take the bent drag links home for the repairs. I had to straightened them out first. I had a spare so I used it to compare what the should look like. Here is a "before photo" showing the bent ones and the spare.




Then I straightened them out on my Harbor Freight 12 ton press.

 

[3RRL]

You may have noticed some "experienced" scarifier shanks lying around the work bench? They are pretty tough and hard, being almost 3/4" thick and 2-½" x 16". I knocked off the teeth and then cut off the sharp point. Then I placed them under the drag links clamping them down. Then put several huge beads of weld on them using my old 220amp Forney buzz box with max amperage and 5/32" 6011 rod to get maximum penetration. I welded the crap out of them. Now they are very sturdy and heavier than before.

I also replaced a "U" bolt that snapped off Pat's system and four 3/8"-16 hardened set screws that broke off. I'll paint them later before putting them back on the tractor. I still need to finish the rest of the trails.

 

[Highbeam]

I don't know Rob, the very fact that those lower links bent is indication that they are the weak link. If you make them super-macho-manly-strong do you suppose that the weak link will become the cast ears on the rear end of the tractor where those links mount? It looked pretty easy to fix those links compared to a new rear end.

I notice that the dust is down so you must be getting some rain. We also are now dust free with all the burn bans lifted.

I'll have to look for the tie rod thread. That sounded fun.

 

[3RRL]

I don't know Rob, the very fact that those lower links bent is indication that they are the weak link. If you make them super-macho-manly-strong do you suppose that the weak link will become the cast ears on the rear end of the tractor where those links mount? It looked pretty easy to fix those links compared to a new rear end.

I notice that the dust is down so you must be getting some rain. We also are now dust free with all the burn bans lifted.

I'll have to look for the tie rod thread. That sounded fun.

As usual, you brought a good point Highbeam,
They were (maybe still are) the weak link. My attachment to the tractor housing is via 2 huge Ø1-½" pins that go through the bottom of the very thick tractor housing. I'm not sure, but it could be one length going completely through? I think those pins and the housing there are plenty strong to stop the tractor dead in its tracks even with significant impact shock. But I'll find out, I'm sure.
Another thing is my sway links are solid and not chains. Their attachment is via a welded bracket to the rear axle housing then pinned to the drag links. They will also absorb and assist in providing additional resistance. At this point, I'm pretty confidant that the tractor housing won't break. Perhaps the lower arms might still bend in an area I did not re-inforce?
That other thread is HERE We did get a little rain, but not as much as I'd like. Maybe only a ½" or so? I don't know if that will be enough to set off the food plot or not. Looking at the weather report, no rain has been in the predictions.
Thanks for looking.

 

[Farwell]

Rob,
This is off the subject: Did you see the ABC's World News story about the guy that has a solar panel set up for his power needs and uses the electricity generated to make hydrogen? He stores the hydrogen for use when the panels are not generating. He said his set up cost was around $110,000. Didn't count the hydrogen storage tanks but he had quite a few. He is totally off of the grid.
If you are interested in the story you may find it on ABc's INTERNET site.
Farwell

 

[3RRL]

Farwell,
Thanks for the tip. I went to the news article and read about it. It does sound interesting but at this time is over my head. I don't know enough about it yet so I will have study up on it. I think I will have to buy a few systems to get the hydrogen out via electrolysis and then make conversions to use it (like in my cars) and also to reconvert it back to electricity? It may be more than I want to get in to? LOL ... I wish I was smarter....heck, I have problems trying to push in a lousy dirt road!

I also read about the Hopewell Project:
"The Hopewell Project is making energy history with a solar-powered residence that generates hydrogen for subsequent reconversion into electricity, meeting all of its power needs, including heating and cooling, through renewable, clean energy."

 

[3RRL]

I finished painting the drag links and they are fully repaired. The "T" on the bottom should give a lot of extra resistance to bending them now. I thought about adding another support too, but have decided against it for the time being. My idea was to use the sway stabilizer mount which is welded to the rear axle on my tractor. I was going to add an adjustable stabilizer bar that goes from there over to the box blade. I thought about using the old turnbuckle sidelinks which have Ø1-1/8" threads.

It would require welding another bracket and another set of lift pins to the box blade and of course, another connection to make when I hook it up. The sway stabilizers I have are solid with pins for adjusting and help support the drag links when pushing in reverse. I thought the extra rigidity with another set going right to the box blade would help for this project. I've decided to wait because I'm not sure if the attachments would still give me the same flexibility in tilting sideways or not....and I may not need it after all? We'll see.

I need to touch them up a little, but here they are fully repaired. I like Brad's idea of the lynch pins that lock themselves on allot. Buy Special Order - Pto 3/8 Inch Locking Pin P7941U by Special Speeco Products & Save at DoItYourself.com That is a good idea and makes adjusting the sway supports much easier. Right now I have these retainer pins instead of the cotter pins. They are an improvement, but not as handy as the ones Brad got.

 

[Timber]

Now Rob have you looked into the Dozer blade for the front of your Tractor. It does require removing the fell but it is the right tool for the job. Just a thought

 

[3RRL]

Hi Charlie,
Yes, I did look into it. Even thought about a "mid-mount" blade. There is an "Experienced" tractor parts place nearby that has all kinds of heavy equipment and parts lying around. Problem is, most of the blades he had I couldn't pick up with my fel!! I am going to keep looking into that though. Maybe make a 6 way from an old blade and cut it way down? In the mean time, I'll keep trying with my "poor man's" backwards dozer blade.

When I go to push in my pond, it is obvious I will be renting a bulldozer. In the pond I will be stuck dealing with whatever pops up. Making these trails I have some leeway in the direction I choose, trying to avoid big ones when I can. I don't want to kill my tractor prematurely....I know it is not a dozer.

Thank you for the suggestion. I appreciate your ideas and input.

 

[3RRL]

I finished repairing the tractor from the damage to the lower drag links when we got to camp last weekend. I ran into a couple of problems but got started with the rest of the trails. I started down the trail to the West side clearing along and came up to the fence line.



Along the way I ran into more rocks and had to move them. When dragging the boxblade, I would constantly pop up small boulders like these.