Shop light decision: thanks!

   / Shop light decision: thanks! #1  

texasjohn

Super Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
6,003
Location
Central Texas, Jarrell
Tractor
Kubota Grand L5030HSTC
I'm opening this net thread to let y'all know what I decided to do, and why. The other thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/90347-shop-light-advice.html got long and I thought I'd pull all key items together here.

The problem:
Light a 40X60 metal workshop and carport between house and workshop. Wood work and general repair and maintence to be done there.

The tools I used:
Everybody's comments in above thread.
This Metal Halide vs Flourescent education:
This lighting design software from Acuity/Lithonia: for free
Metal Halide lights from e-conolight. The cheapest such lights I found after extensive web search.
Underwriter Laboratories Marking Guide to understand what damp and wet locations ment.
I Hate Flourescent!
Indirect lighting calculator
Design Lumens vs Pupil Lumens & Usable Light


My decision based on cost, pupil lumens, convience, instant start, whatever:

In the shop I'll use T8 electronic start flourescent ship lights. About 142 lumens at work height throughout the building. After much search, both on the net and box stores, I located at Home Depot this shop light:

Lithonia Model 1245R Work Light Red Steel for $17.86 (110 Volt,takes 2 T8 48" bulbs, electronic instant start ballast, pull chain, reflector, 5'power cord, chain mount hardware). I'm putting 25 of them equally spaced on the slant ceiling beams. One line in the peak center, 5 fixtures all on one switch, 18' high. Then, a right and a left bank of lights, each on a separate switch, two rows of lights each bank (one row at 15' and another at 16'. This gives a quick center light for finding something and selective additonal lighting depending on which side of the building I am working in. I could not find this model on the Lithonia site, maybe you can. Two different sales folks at the Pro desk told me that, after calling Lithonia and confirming, they could not reduce the price further since they were selling me the lights "on the order of dollars" below the cost to Home Depot. I carefully evaluated the quality of the fixture... it is clearly better than the Lights of America fixture I saw. The socket ends where the bulbs attach seem to be sturdy and well attached. Time will tell if they hold up or not, CurlyDave.

T8 Homelight Daylight Deluxe flourescent tubes from Home Depot, 32Watt, 10 in a case, $30 per case for inside the shop. The lamp is 6500K
Two of them are so bright that you can hardly look at them at night up close. This gives CRI of 79 according to the web site but the box has a 85 CRI number on it and 2800 lumens per tube. Flourescents selected because of instant on, non point source to reduce shadows.

e-conolight has the best prices I found anywhere after extensive search thus I'll be getting these Metal halide lights from them: They say they are UL approved. I have heard nothing negative regarding their service or products, but if somebody has input, I'm listening. Will likely purchase within next couple of days.

E-HB5M40Q , a $65, 400 Watt, 70 CRI, 35000 lumens MH quad volt CWA ballast unshielded construction light for damp locations. I'm going to put two of these under my carport between the house and the shop such that not only will the carport be lighted, but also one end of the shop and one side of the shop.

E-LB2M40Q , a $80, 400 watt 65 CRI, 36000 lumens MH quad volt ballast, 16.5 inch diameter, for damp locations. I'll either put one or two of these right over my high-use work areas, depending on my percieved additional lighting needs after getting the flourescents installed. Individual light switches for each.

E-HR4M40QZ , a $105,400 watt, 33100 lumens, 65 CRI MH, wet location flood light over roll up doors on each end and walk doors on each side of building, individually switched.

I selected 400 watt MH fixtures because when I want light, I want light. Also, cost of fixture/bulb is similar batween wattages. Since I'll either be there using the light, or it will be switched off, no need for lower power lights. Also, the color of the MH lights sold me. I did not select Pulse start because I figure that at $12 per bulb I can afford to replace any bulb that gets dim over time and not spend the extra $ on pulse start.

Portable lighting is a 500 watt halogen light on extension cord for working under vehicles, etc. Yes, my experience is that the halogen bulbs are very contrary and burn out, sometimes after only a few hours of use.

Hanging from the ceiling are three cord reels from Harbor Freight , $40 each on sale right now, to provide electricity to the center of the work areas.

I've got a 220 welding plug at each end of the building and about 20 two outlet 110v 20 amp plugs scattered around the perimeter. Square D breaker box with 40 circuits available so I should have some left over for growth.

I'm still deciding how to best connect my generator into the shop, but these sites are the best I found from the generator thread.
Interlock Kit
Gen-Tran

Whew! Well, I thought that maybe somebody out there could benefit from my findings/decisions ... I certainly appreciate all of the ideas and leads that yáll gave me... couldn't have done it without TBN!!!! I'm still installing everything... hope to post photos when it's all turned on.
 
   / Shop light decision: thanks! #2  
Tex:
Thanks for taking the time to summarize your findings. I'll be a great help to me in a few months with I add more lighting to my 24'x42' metal garage/shop (12' walls).
 
   / Shop light decision: thanks! #3  
The insulated section of my shop is 32x40 x 12' 6" high. I went with eight foot flourescent lights ( rapid and cold start ) laid out on the ceiling in three rows. I heat the shop only on cold days and the lights work great. The only addition I will make is a light over the work bench as soon as the cabinets are installed. The white painted steel interior reflects well and retains heat for a long period of time. They must be efficient because I don't notice much difference in the electric bill when I spend alot of time in the shop. In the 40x42 unheated space I will go with the flourescent bulbs Home Depot sells ( 250 or 300 watt size ) as lighting isn't as critical.
 
   / Shop light decision: thanks! #4  
Good thread with lots of info.

Lithonia makes a good light fixture. You won't be disappointed with them. I went with their T5HO lights.

Regarding the generator hook up, if you are using a SquareD QO series panel, I have a pretty simple solution. SquareD makes an interlock kit you can install on the main panel. It is a mechanical kit that allows only the main breaker or the breaker mounted in the upper right hand slot to be turned on AT THE SAME TIME. The breaker in the upper right hand corner is called a “back feed” breaker and is wired to a generator inlet.

On my power pole drop, I have a 320 Amp meter with two 200 Amp main feed-through main panels - one for the shop and one for the house. The 200 Amp feed through main panels have a few slots for breakers and then the buss has connections at the bottom to go to the house or shop where there is a 40 position 200 Amp main panel. The main panels on the power pole have 200 Amp main breakers and the 200 Amp main panels in the house and shop do not have main breakers. Each of the 200Amp main panels on the power pole have 50 Amp 220 Volt feed back breakers that are wired to a common generator inlet. The generator inlet is a Midwest box and is rated for NEMA3R while in use. It has a slanted inlet design and a cover that allows the cord to drop out the bottom while the door is closed.

If power goes out, you turn off the 200 Amp main breaker at the power pole and plug in the generator. You then engage the mechanical interlock and turn on the 50 Amp back feed breaker. I installed a 3R rated pilot lamp wired directly to the meter feed so I’ll know when the power company has service turned back on.

Here are a couple of pictures on the meter base as it was being pre-wired. The generator inlet is the small box in the lower middle. The back feed breaker and interlock kit can be seen in the two close up photos.

SquareD QO series is a bit more expensive than GE or the Homelite series, but I could only find this kit in this series. It’s much cheaper than a transfer switch.

I need to take some pictures of the installation and make a seperate generator hook up thread. But first, I need to get my lights up :)
 

Attachments

  • 2005 - Meter Loop 1_resize.JPG
    2005 - Meter Loop 1_resize.JPG
    84.2 KB · Views: 935
  • 2005 - Meter Loop 4_resize.JPG
    2005 - Meter Loop 4_resize.JPG
    68.8 KB · Views: 1,039
  • 2005 - Meter Loop 5_resize.JPG
    2005 - Meter Loop 5_resize.JPG
    51.2 KB · Views: 649
   / Shop light decision: thanks! #5  
TJ,

Thanks for the info, i am getting my 50x30' steel building up in Feb, and now i know what lighting to install!

RD
 
   / Shop light decision: thanks! #6  
Just for what it's worth, you might check out a company in Wisconsin called Rudd. They manufacture a wide range of lighting products and sell direct to contractors. I am no expert, but their catalog (and the products themselves that I have used) seems as good as any- well made, well engineered, and cost-efficient due to the way they are marketed. I haven't done business with them for some time, but they used to be very customer oriented.
 
   / Shop light decision: thanks!
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I went to their site

and there are no prices that one can see without logging in... which I didn't do... their "I don't have an account" link says:

Ruud Lighting Inc. sells directly to electrical distributors, contractors and selected National Accounts. Outside of the United States, RLI products may be purchased through our authorized distributors only.

Please call Customer Service at (800) 236-7000 for more information.

Somebody may wish to sign up and see what prices they offer.... their product line looks complete although their web master is occasionally spelling/grammar challenged.
 
   / Shop light decision: thanks!
  • Thread Starter
#8  
E-conolights arrived yesterday in good shape.. miniumum shipping time via UPS. They charge state tax unless you send them an exemption certificate, but that takes a week or so to process, but no shipping charge, so it is about even. Will take a while to install and see how they work, but quality LOOKS just fine and printed instructions for installation are in every box.
 
   / Shop light decision: thanks! #9  
I've got a question for you, you state: "In the shop I'll use T8 electronic start flourescent ship lights. About 142 lumens at work height throughout the building" How many foot-candles does that work out to? Lumens per what? I'm planning the lighting structure for my barn/garage right now, and used the lithonia software to figure out placement. I'm going with 16 double T8 lights (the white versions of what you have) for area lighting, and 4 along one 28' wall for bench lighting. According to the software, not including the bench lights, I'll have an average of 50fc at working height, max 61 min 49. Been looking for a while on recommended lighting levels, and the only concrete thing I've found so far has been Hazardous waste operations and emergency response. - 1910.120 1910.120(m) which states (roughly) minimum of 10fc for average areas, and minimum of 30fc for first aid stations, offices, etc.
whodat
 
 
Top