MarkV
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,636
- Location
- Cedartown, Ga and N. Ga mountains
- Tractor
- 1998 Kubota B21, 2005 Kubota L39
Saltman, great view, I vote for more windows in the bathroom.
MarkV
MarkV
Bathroom Building
- Thread starter saltman
- Start date
- Views: 10141
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Saltman,
I noticed a few things in your framing that you may want to take another look at before going any further. To make it simple and easy to understand, I copied your picture and marked the areas that I noticed in diferent colors.
In red you'll notice that I extended your overhang purlins to the second truss in. Having them start at the end ones will alow them to flex and eventuly fail from wind.
In blue, you'll see how the endwalls extend up to the rafters. This will allow you to attach your siding, plus make for a stronger roof.
Pink shows how you need to support your trusses on your top plates. With your style of truss, you need to connect the bottom chord with the rafter at the point it rests on the wall. Carrying all that weight at the tails of the rafter will put additional stress on them and lead to failure.
Your headers are off 90 degrees. For 3 foot openings, you can use two 2x6's with a half inch spacer between them for a header and installed on the edge. You have them flat, which offers almost no strength.
The green line shows where you need to add a stud so you can install sheetrock, or whatever you want to use for your interior walls. The way it looks right now, there is nothing to attach anything to. There are two ways to do this, the easiest at this point is to just nail in another stud perpindicular to your end studs.
The yellow square shows the sill plate still in place for the door opening. At first I figured you'd just cut it out, like normal, but then I saw a bolt through it. The exterior door is sealed to the concrete at the bottom and there is no silll plate under a door.
I can't tell how your trusses are held together or what size lumber you used. The demensions are small enough that you can get away with what you have, but to be safe, I'dd add a few cross braces halfway up the rafter, connecting each top chord to each other. The bottom chords will stop the walls from pulling apart, but there is nothing to stop the top chords from moving around on you. Movement means failure.
Eddie
I noticed a few things in your framing that you may want to take another look at before going any further. To make it simple and easy to understand, I copied your picture and marked the areas that I noticed in diferent colors.
In red you'll notice that I extended your overhang purlins to the second truss in. Having them start at the end ones will alow them to flex and eventuly fail from wind.
In blue, you'll see how the endwalls extend up to the rafters. This will allow you to attach your siding, plus make for a stronger roof.
Pink shows how you need to support your trusses on your top plates. With your style of truss, you need to connect the bottom chord with the rafter at the point it rests on the wall. Carrying all that weight at the tails of the rafter will put additional stress on them and lead to failure.
Your headers are off 90 degrees. For 3 foot openings, you can use two 2x6's with a half inch spacer between them for a header and installed on the edge. You have them flat, which offers almost no strength.
The green line shows where you need to add a stud so you can install sheetrock, or whatever you want to use for your interior walls. The way it looks right now, there is nothing to attach anything to. There are two ways to do this, the easiest at this point is to just nail in another stud perpindicular to your end studs.
The yellow square shows the sill plate still in place for the door opening. At first I figured you'd just cut it out, like normal, but then I saw a bolt through it. The exterior door is sealed to the concrete at the bottom and there is no silll plate under a door.
I can't tell how your trusses are held together or what size lumber you used. The demensions are small enough that you can get away with what you have, but to be safe, I'dd add a few cross braces halfway up the rafter, connecting each top chord to each other. The bottom chords will stop the walls from pulling apart, but there is nothing to stop the top chords from moving around on you. Movement means failure.
Eddie
Attachments
Donais, my property is just north of Jacumba very close to Boulavard. Let me know if you know of any good fecnce companies.
Eddie I have a few questions for you and appreciate your feedback.
The Rafters/ Trusses hang over the bottom plate by a foot. They are toe nailed on each side and have simpson hurracane brackets on the inside with 6 nails in each braket. I guess I am not sure of what you mean with the pink diagram.. the truss is fully rested on the top plate and very secure. Do you think I should block them??
I know the bottom plate must be removed prior to putting the door in, I just hadn't figured out where to put the door when I poured the slab. I will cut this out and then secure the area on both sides of the door with harware that will fasten to the slab.
The Headers are off, can I put the correct header above what I have there now or will I have to remove what is there?
Is it ok to leave the perlins I have and simply attach new ones from the first truss in to the second truss? I am going to sheet the entire roof.
As far as the the end walls and the two corners go, I remembered that but ran out of lumber and will add those next trip.
The rafters are 2x4 16 inch on center, the have gussets on both sides on the bottoms and tops. Would you recommend simply running a 2x4 down the center or maybe two on each side? They will be holding the roof up but other than that they will not have much of a load.
Thanks
I appreciate all feedback
Oh and for the windows I, I decided to frame in two more on the one wall that doesn't have any. I found some that are 12'" x 30" That I can put between the studs.
Eddie I have a few questions for you and appreciate your feedback.
The Rafters/ Trusses hang over the bottom plate by a foot. They are toe nailed on each side and have simpson hurracane brackets on the inside with 6 nails in each braket. I guess I am not sure of what you mean with the pink diagram.. the truss is fully rested on the top plate and very secure. Do you think I should block them??
I know the bottom plate must be removed prior to putting the door in, I just hadn't figured out where to put the door when I poured the slab. I will cut this out and then secure the area on both sides of the door with harware that will fasten to the slab.
The Headers are off, can I put the correct header above what I have there now or will I have to remove what is there?
Is it ok to leave the perlins I have and simply attach new ones from the first truss in to the second truss? I am going to sheet the entire roof.
As far as the the end walls and the two corners go, I remembered that but ran out of lumber and will add those next trip.
The rafters are 2x4 16 inch on center, the have gussets on both sides on the bottoms and tops. Would you recommend simply running a 2x4 down the center or maybe two on each side? They will be holding the roof up but other than that they will not have much of a load.
Thanks
I appreciate all feedback
Oh and for the windows I, I decided to frame in two more on the one wall that doesn't have any. I found some that are 12'" x 30" That I can put between the studs.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Saltman,
The ends of your trusses overhang from the wall one foot. The bottom chord rests on top of the top plate. Then the rafter rests on top of your bottom chord. The weight of the roof is on the very ends of your bottom chords one foot past the wall. This is wrong. In a small shed, you might get away with it for awhile, but with heavy winds, it's more iffy.
The pink lines that I drew represent some very short pieces of wood that go between the rafter and bottom chord exactly above the wall. This way, all the weight on the roof is sitting squarely on your walls.
Whis sheething, there is no reason to block your trusses.
I am assuming you plan on using some sort of sheething for your soffits with a few vents cut into it on both sides? Just a guess, but I think three vents per side should work well.
The short purlins really need to come out. It's not just those, but also the framing on the end walls to support the overhang. I would rip off the overhang and end trusses. Then I would frame up the wall to a height 3 1/2 inches below the height of your trusses. Once you have this done, you can cut the overhang purlins. They attach to the second truss, rest on the wall you just built up and end like you already have it. You might use preasure treated wood for your facia instead of the wood you have there now.
How you finish off your overhang and your choice of siding makes some difference here, but usualy I block in-between those purlins to creat a flat surface to attach siding all the way up to the sheeting above.
You can leave the bottom board on your headers if you like and attach it to the replacement one. Take out the cripple studs too, then install the new headers and cut the cripple studs down to size and re-install.
I didn't ask before because the picture isn't clear enough, but do you have two studs on either side of your door opening? one that goes from the sill plate to the top plate, and the other that goes from the sill plate to the bottom of your header? The header rests on this shorter stud. It's called a jack stud. The tall one is your king stud.
If you are using a 36 inch extrior door, then your opening is 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches wider then the door, or 38 1/2 inche to 39 inches. Your header is three inches longer then your rough opening, which is also the inside distance of your king studs.
With windows that fit bewtween studs, no header is needed. You can frame in thoe opening any way you like. It's not critical sincy your existing studs are still all there. You only need a header when you remove studs and need to support the roof overhead without the studs there.
How are you going to vent the peak?
Are you putting in a shower? tub? or anything that will need interior walls? If you have any interior walls, you need to have studs on the exterior walls to attach them to, plus studs overlaping the inside corners to attach your interior siding.
Do you have a floor plan or diagram of how you want everything to fit?
How are you heating water and where will this devide be located at?
Is there a storage area for bathroom stuff and cleaning supplies?
Eddie
The ends of your trusses overhang from the wall one foot. The bottom chord rests on top of the top plate. Then the rafter rests on top of your bottom chord. The weight of the roof is on the very ends of your bottom chords one foot past the wall. This is wrong. In a small shed, you might get away with it for awhile, but with heavy winds, it's more iffy.
The pink lines that I drew represent some very short pieces of wood that go between the rafter and bottom chord exactly above the wall. This way, all the weight on the roof is sitting squarely on your walls.
Whis sheething, there is no reason to block your trusses.
I am assuming you plan on using some sort of sheething for your soffits with a few vents cut into it on both sides? Just a guess, but I think three vents per side should work well.
The short purlins really need to come out. It's not just those, but also the framing on the end walls to support the overhang. I would rip off the overhang and end trusses. Then I would frame up the wall to a height 3 1/2 inches below the height of your trusses. Once you have this done, you can cut the overhang purlins. They attach to the second truss, rest on the wall you just built up and end like you already have it. You might use preasure treated wood for your facia instead of the wood you have there now.
How you finish off your overhang and your choice of siding makes some difference here, but usualy I block in-between those purlins to creat a flat surface to attach siding all the way up to the sheeting above.
You can leave the bottom board on your headers if you like and attach it to the replacement one. Take out the cripple studs too, then install the new headers and cut the cripple studs down to size and re-install.
I didn't ask before because the picture isn't clear enough, but do you have two studs on either side of your door opening? one that goes from the sill plate to the top plate, and the other that goes from the sill plate to the bottom of your header? The header rests on this shorter stud. It's called a jack stud. The tall one is your king stud.
If you are using a 36 inch extrior door, then your opening is 2 1/2 inches to 3 inches wider then the door, or 38 1/2 inche to 39 inches. Your header is three inches longer then your rough opening, which is also the inside distance of your king studs.
With windows that fit bewtween studs, no header is needed. You can frame in thoe opening any way you like. It's not critical sincy your existing studs are still all there. You only need a header when you remove studs and need to support the roof overhead without the studs there.
How are you going to vent the peak?
Are you putting in a shower? tub? or anything that will need interior walls? If you have any interior walls, you need to have studs on the exterior walls to attach them to, plus studs overlaping the inside corners to attach your interior siding.
Do you have a floor plan or diagram of how you want everything to fit?
How are you heating water and where will this devide be located at?
Is there a storage area for bathroom stuff and cleaning supplies?
Eddie
schmism
Super Member
the gable end door doesnt need a tradtional header due to the fact that it carrys only sheething weight.
THe tails of your home made trusses can be easly fixed with a small plywood gusset on the backside. (seems you put a 2x bock on one side)
I dont know what snow load is in your area, but if its light your likely fine with the window openings as you only have 1 truss sitting in the middle of the window. The double top plate is likely to take a lot of that expecailly if you increase your nail spaceing in that area on your sheething on the exterior face.
THe tails of your home made trusses can be easly fixed with a small plywood gusset on the backside. (seems you put a 2x bock on one side)
I dont know what snow load is in your area, but if its light your likely fine with the window openings as you only have 1 truss sitting in the middle of the window. The double top plate is likely to take a lot of that expecailly if you increase your nail spaceing in that area on your sheething on the exterior face.
AlanB
Elite Member
It's funny, somehow I get the feeling that me reading this thread, is the same feeling that some get when reading the welding threads.
I have to go back, 10 times, look at the pictures, find the words, and see how it all ties together.
in the FWIW category, it sure makes for informative reading, and I do appreciate folks taking the time to write it.
I have to go back, 10 times, look at the pictures, find the words, and see how it all ties together.
in the FWIW category, it sure makes for informative reading, and I do appreciate folks taking the time to write it.
I appreciate all of the feedback and like to hear what others have to say.
I worked as a framer one summer in College but didn't do the layout only the grunt work but helped build two houses and have a general understanding of framing. I built the cabin/ shed that is on my property now. What I don't know I ask or read about but am bound to make mistakes and appreciate all feedback.
I realize the photos aren't that clear and the building appears a lot bigger than it is. the windows are 24"x24" the walls are only 12' long by 8" wide. The trusses are gusseted on both sides, one side with 3/4 OSB and the other with a 2x10 cut at proper angles. The tops are also double gusseted. If I notch cut some 2x4's and ran underneath the top rafters t from the next to the end truss back say 3 trusses or so wouldn't thins strengthen my overhang? I looked at several books and both books showed the overhang done just as I did for small sheds? I will frame out the end above the wall so I can attach the sheeting.
It snows about once a year here and is not measureable. The roof is a 12-8 and will be sheeted and then have a galvanized roof which weighs very little.
Roof venting will be two gable vents on each end with a gap on the top of the roof covered by a ridge cap that is open on both ends that overhangs the roof slightly.
The doorway rough opening is per manufactures spec which is 38.5 inches and yes I used Jack and kind studs.
For hot water I am using a propane unit that is on demand, the floor plan is pretty open when you walk in so there will be plenty of room for this small unit. I will have a shower first in line and then the vanity and toilet. Which of course will get no hot water.
Any ideas on the shower wall material? I was going to use a hardi board or duroc substraight with a vapor barrier behind it and then cover it with the inexpensive fake tile board that comes in 4x8 sheets that is water proof?
I want something simple and inexpensive.
I worked as a framer one summer in College but didn't do the layout only the grunt work but helped build two houses and have a general understanding of framing. I built the cabin/ shed that is on my property now. What I don't know I ask or read about but am bound to make mistakes and appreciate all feedback.
I realize the photos aren't that clear and the building appears a lot bigger than it is. the windows are 24"x24" the walls are only 12' long by 8" wide. The trusses are gusseted on both sides, one side with 3/4 OSB and the other with a 2x10 cut at proper angles. The tops are also double gusseted. If I notch cut some 2x4's and ran underneath the top rafters t from the next to the end truss back say 3 trusses or so wouldn't thins strengthen my overhang? I looked at several books and both books showed the overhang done just as I did for small sheds? I will frame out the end above the wall so I can attach the sheeting.
It snows about once a year here and is not measureable. The roof is a 12-8 and will be sheeted and then have a galvanized roof which weighs very little.
Roof venting will be two gable vents on each end with a gap on the top of the roof covered by a ridge cap that is open on both ends that overhangs the roof slightly.
The doorway rough opening is per manufactures spec which is 38.5 inches and yes I used Jack and kind studs.
For hot water I am using a propane unit that is on demand, the floor plan is pretty open when you walk in so there will be plenty of room for this small unit. I will have a shower first in line and then the vanity and toilet. Which of course will get no hot water.
Any ideas on the shower wall material? I was going to use a hardi board or duroc substraight with a vapor barrier behind it and then cover it with the inexpensive fake tile board that comes in 4x8 sheets that is water proof?
I want something simple and inexpensive.
