Residential Code Question ???

[EddieWalker]

I was looking at a house yesterday that's still in the framing stage. It's in city limits and there is a permit for the building of this house. The builder is a rooky and I'm sort of checking up on what he's doing for another client of mine who is the father of one of the home owners.

The city code for residential buildings is the 2009 version of the International Building Code.

I'm not sure to what the inspector for this very small town does. I'm not sure if this is right or not, and I'm hoping to hear some other opinions. I didn't get pictures, so I aplogize if I'm not clear.

1. Can Topcon screws be used instead of anchor bolts to attach the sill plate to the concrete slab foundation? I've never seen this before and don't think it's right, but I don't know for sure.

2. Are finger joint 2x4's acceptable for exterior, load bearing walls when they are nine feet tall? I've heard both on the use of finger jointed studs. I've heard they are ok for interior walls, and that they are ok for load bearing walls up to 8ft. I've also heard that they are never to be used for exterior walls. I've never used them and as a result, never had to pass an inspection with them. In this house, every stud is finger jointed.

3. Can the exterior OSB sheething be installed with staples? I always use nails and have never tried or seen anything else used. This is the first time that I've seen staples used and I don't know if it's legal or not. The sheething is 7/16 OSB.

4. When installing sheething on the exterior walls that are more then 8 feet tall, I lay the sheet on its side and have it start at the sill plate so that it ties the sill plate and wall studs together. Then I put the next sheet as far up as I can so that I can cover the top plates and tie them into the wall studs. Then I cut strips to fit in the space between the two sheets, depending on what that width is.

On this house, they installed the one foot, or something close to that, length of sheething to the top of the wall so that it is stapled to the top plates and then the tops of the wall studs.

5. I've been using "California" corners in my framing for awhile now, and see it in most of the homes I've been in. I've heard it was either code, or going to be code because it's the only way to get insulation into the corners after framing the house. They didn't do that in this house and there will be no way to insulate the corners. Did it become code to do the corners that way, or is it still a personal preference of the builder?

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[PILOON]

Not an expert but;
1-Tapcon, I'd say no, 1/2" expansion bolts were approved by my inspectors and much easier to install as their are no alignment problems.
2- finger joint no, I think on exterior in fact KD is req'd
3- Staples should be OK as furring strips then cover for siding also 1/2" staples really hold better than nails
4- Always start from bottom, use 9 ft and or add at top if req'd as this way floor joists are covered and besides top trim is less critical as ends are in eaves where insulation covers wall tops.
California corners? if you refer to metalic 'wind braces', that is the only thing I'd ever use.
Makes real sense for proper insulation

Around here we always use Tyvec or Typar outer house wrap as it breathes.

 

[beenthere]

Finger jointed studs are usable in exterior walls, as the code just restricts them to vertical use only. But they meet compression parallel to grain tests and exceed compression strength of studs with knots in them. Not to be used for rafters or beams or joists and the like.

The glue used is exterior so that covers the exterior wall requirements. KD to 19% is required for moisture content.

 

[bp fick]

Tapcons for anchors? Bolts or straps. Cannot believe a tapcon is approved, but will check.

Eddie, as you know very well, the local inspector may "pass" things that aren't really code, and may gig things that are perfectly acceptable building practices, just because he has blind spots, lacks knowledge, or even worse, doesn't do his work with diligence. Insert a sigh here.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I wouldn't want tapcon and finger joint studs on my house, not sure about code. I also thought you needed at least 8d nails on the sheathing.

you can lookup code here:
http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/2009ICodes/Building/Building_Frameset.html

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I've got the '06 book but it's at my shop. When I was building my house, I read almost the whole thing cover to cover. I can tell you this, the inspectors don't know the codes. I could give you a few examples. But, from what I know of your questions, I am 99% sure Tapcons can not be used to anchor the sill to the foundation. Unfortunately, if it's not specifically spelled out in the code book, it is up to the individual inspectors discretion. You could get 10 different inspectors and 10 different answers. Staples can be used for the sheathing. His sheathing will pass code but I like your way much better. California corners are not mandatory. Boxed corners will pass code. They are what the builder used in my house. I used spray foam insulation so it didn't matter to me. Anyway, many builders around here box in their corners but don't nail the bottom of the stud until after the insulation goes in.

Sad past is, while most or all of this may pass code, it's not the way I would want my home built. You wouldn't believe the junk built around here, even with minimum codes.

 

[Charlesaf3]

I can't believe tapcons are code. Other stuff, I don't know, but it shows again how bad a house you can build and be within code.

But heck, I won't even use OSB, I think its a junk material and believe water will eventually get to it. And when it does, results aren't pretty. Up here we do full skin on a house too, they don't seem to in most of the country. I used to see houses framed in Denver and just shake my head.

I don't do california corners though. They don't seem beefy enough for me. But I can see where a reasonable person would disagree.

 

[jejeosborne]

I am not sure with the codes in Texas but in indiana you must use anchor bolts for the foundation.
As far as finger jointed studs. I will not frame another house with anything else. Every stud is perfectly straight making every wall perfect. Even makes the trim work easier and better looking as well as the cabinets and countertops. Our exterior walls are 2x6 finger jointed studs. Beenthere make good points about their limits but for general framing I feel they are superior.
I too want the sheeting to include the sill plate. That is what anchors the studs to the foundation and adds diagonal support. I go vertical as much as possible to minimize plywood gaps that I have to later seal for infiltration.
Jeff

 

[EddieWalker]

I spoke to the father of the person having the house built this morning, and told him that I was going to call the inspector to find out if those topcons are code or not. Plust ask about the other things that I'm not sure about, but might just be my persnonal issues. He suprised me be asking me not to. He said that he appreciated me taking the time to take a look at the building, but would prefer to let the inspector find anything on their own. I'm not sure what happened, but I got the impression that he wasn't happy with what I told him and that he didn't want to hear anything else. He then said that he didn't want to put me out to any more trouble or take up my time by going out there again. I guess I just got fired. LOL

Eddie

 

[MossRoad]

I spoke to the father of the person having the house built this morning, and told him that I was going to call the inspector to find out if those topcons are code or not. Plust ask about the other things that I'm not sure about, but might just be my persnonal issues. He suprised me be asking me not to. He said that he appreciated me taking the time to take a look at the building, but would prefer to let the inspector find anything on their own. I'm not sure what happened, but I got the impression that he wasn't happy with what I told him and that he didn't want to hear anything else. He then said that he didn't want to put me out to any more trouble or take up my time by going out there again. I guess I just got fired. LOL

Eddie

Wow. That is strange. Seems like the time to remedy any problems is now, not later???

My father was an Architect, and a state licensed construction specification writer and a state licensed building inspector, among other things. He always stressed that correcting problems as soon as they are found is the best way to go.