2001 GMC Yukon XL (SLT) transmission

[Dirtball]

Agree with above : plus get new plug wires , easy do it yourself if you can. Alittle dab of dielectric grease to both ends of the plug wires. Plugs will come out easier cold ( if you dont already know this). Stay with same tranny fluid. Dont add synthetic to old standard fluid. If you drop tranny pan replace filter and Gasket. I put a drain plug in my tranny pans like yours that dont have one. $5.00 part and a drill and some RTV around the outside once I snug it in. Keep up with worn out front end components, sloppy components wear out other good stuff sooner. My 1994 Burb K2500 454 silver is still running strong @ Killington MTN Vt. shuttling crew all over. It has a Banks PowerPak, give a wave if anyone sees it. Friends who ski there see it occais. My present Sub 2005 K2500 8.1 running strong at 105,000mi. Though it did eat it's front diff and transfer case under warranty ( GMPP extended to 100k mi). Best improvement 1994 > 2005 was Brakes- they really stop and last forever, thanks GM.

 

[Dirtball]

Oh, I wanted to add that I dont trust "Transmission Shops" in general. Heard to many stories of good trannies getting a tranny tune-up and then needing "big work" . Stick with someone you trust.

 

[QueBota]

I would drop the tranny pan and change the fluid and filter. Not a big fan of the tranny flush. If your pan doesn't have a drain plug add one when you drop the pan, that way you can change out 3 to 4 quarts of tranny fluid everytime you change the oil or more often if you like, and dropping the pan to change the filter is much less messy.

Dave

 

[Highbeam]

I also have a 2001 GMC yukon, the fancy one with autoride, 4x4, and the 5.3. These things are extremely comfortable, snappy, and get good mpg for such a large vehicle. My only failure was a fuel pump at about 110,000 miles.

I change the oil, air filter, and belt. Other than that I haven't done a thing. I will keep fixing it until it falls apart we love it so much.

The transmission is the old dependable 4l60e with a drain plug in the pan. Dropping the pan for a filter swap is easy to do but messy. Use a nice new filter from GM. My last 4l60e made it past 177000 miles with heavy towing and hauling. You need to know how not to abuse the auto trans and it will last a long long time. These trannies are cheap to replace, a couple thousand, compared to my ford F350 which will cost about 4000$ for some strange reason.

 

[Soundguy]

don't fix it unless it is broke.

too many people 'fix' things until they break.

fluid and filters and whater milage recomended maintenance the service manual calls for unless you notice it has problems.

I have a 2000 gmc yukon... the tranny on it is about the only part of that junky gm vehicle that has not had some sort of problems. It is well taken care of, maintained.. has low miles and was owned since new.. and has still had nearly every major system fail in it
I still remember the multi thousand dollar electrical system failer that pretty much resulted in taking the vehicle apart and replacing every wire, module and thing in it with a wire or module.. took 5 weeks to be put back together.. dealer had no idea what did it.. thank goodness I had an extended service plan and only had to pay a lil over a grand out of pocket for a nearly new vehicle

if your yukon is doing as good as you say it is, throw some salt over your shoulder, hang a rabbits foot and 4leaf clover on the key chain, and talk nice to it every night before you put it to bed...

soundguy

soundguy

My wife has this truck with 152K miles, we bought it new and love it and really want to keep it another couple of years since a new one just like it is like $45K. Also, I don't know what the economy is going to do, where fuel prices are going to be, and don't know if I would buy this large a vehicle if I were replacing it.

I plan to spend some money on it, new shocks, brakes, plugs (never been replaced), and possibly front end work like ball joints. But the transmission has never been rebuilt and I expect it could go at any time.

Does it make any sense at all to have a transmission shop go through it even though it seems just fine? Could the rebuild possibly be cheaper than it would be if it fails? I hesitate to take long trips in the truck because of the high miles on the transmission.

Before doing anything I will probably get the engine looked at to make sure it looks good to go for a long time. The oil has always been changed and it runs fine, doesn't use oil, and has no leaks. Hopefully its good for another 50 or 60K miles at least.

In all this time we have replaced the fuel pump and thats it (but that was $700).

 

[carpenter383]

The newer 4l60e's with deep pans have a factory drain plug. If you change the filter you have to make sure the filter is for a deep pan.
The biggest '95 and newer 4l60e complaint is the p1870 code (component slipping) it's caused by the tcc valve in the vb. It's a relatively easy fix if you're comfortable with hand tools, and can follow instructions.
The p1870 causes the computer to raise line pressure, which is why they shift so hard after the code is set. This typically follows a drive down the highway where tcc lockup is commanded, and it goes away after you turn the key off.
'98 and newer 4l60e's are eccc which means the converter clutch may never fully lock, this was done in an effort to increase fuel economy. A special converter clutch friction material is used to take the heat on pwm tcc converters ('95 and newer).

 

[Jstpssng]

Agree with all of the above. Plus; You have something you like, and it's been good to you. If the tranny does go, just replace it. It'll still be cheaper than a newer vehicle.

If it does go, consider a Mr Goodwrench rebuild. in 2005 I dropped one into my '98 GMC pickup for $1700 (including towing) and it performed much better than the aftermarket I'd put in just 17K earlier; plus it has a 50K mile warrantee, good at any GM dealer.

 

[Alan L.]

Thanks for this good information. If I understand it correctly the safest maintenance I can do is drop the pan and change the filter and however much fluid this changes out. If in fact there is a drain plug it seems like draining it 2 or 3 times would be a good idea.

I have noticed the last few months in the cold weather there is some tappet noise until it warms up. Does this indicate they should be adjusted, or maybe something worse?

 

[timswi]

Thanks for this good information. If I understand it correctly the safest maintenance I can do is drop the pan and change the filter and however much fluid this changes out. If in fact there is a drain plug it seems like draining it 2 or 3 times would be a good idea.

I have noticed the last few months in the cold weather there is some tappet noise until it warms up. Does this indicate they should be adjusted, or maybe something worse?

Nope the tappet noise is pretty normal in the deep freeze. Just maintain it and drive it dude

 

[daveinnh]

Alan:

I traded a 2001 Silverado last August on a new 2009 Sierra SLT. The Silverado had ~ 190k miles and had the fuel pump replaced at ~ 150k.

My local mechanic said the brake lines looked rusty and the steering was getting a lose feel when compared to a new truck. You probably don't get much snow and salt in TX though.