110V Electrical Question

   / 110V Electrical Question #41  
Thats correct ... not even outside. Couldn't fiqure that darn meter out, its a digital one and so many different setting's. Was also a little intimidated to be sticking those ends in places I wasn't sure I should be sticking them!!!

Maybe you should call a electrician.

This is nothing to be playing with if your not capable.
 
   / 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#42  
The white wire that is the neutral for the receptacles is not tied to the neutral buss bar. It looks as though it is tied to the box. Move that wire to the neutral buss bar.

I think it is ... if I am understanding you.
 

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   / 110V Electrical Question #43  
I work as a electrician and there is somthing wrong. Call your local contractor because he will be cheaper than the fire insurance claim that I hope never happens. I can not tell by the pictures but I think the neutral is floating at the source of the panel supply, not at the panel you have pics of.
Craig Clayton
 
   / 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#44  
What is that white wire doing going to the bottom breaker?

That is going to the well ... The copper is on the bar, the black and white to the breaker.
 
   / 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Maybe you should call a electrician.

This is nothing to be playing with if your not capable.

Thanks Willl ... thats pretty darn sound advice!!
 
   / 110V Electrical Question #46  
I think it is ... if I am understanding you.

In the setup you have with your panel, each circuit is clasified as a main. You can legaly have up to six mains.

I would agree with an earlier poster as to a neutral issue. As for testing the incoming power with the meter, one lead would go on the neutral bus and the other would be on one of the screw terminals where the larger black wires enter the bottom of the breaker panel. You should have ~240 volts between the two terminals at the bottom of the breaker panel and ~120 volts from each to the neutral bus. As suggested, test this both with and without the heat lamps connected. I expect you will find that you have less than 120 volts to the neutral bus and the voltage will lower with the heat lamps connected. If I am correct, your issue is ahead of the breaker panel and an electrician will be required.
 
   / 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I work as a electrician and there is somthing wrong. Call your local contractor because he will be cheaper than the fire insurance claim that I hope never happens. I can not tell by the pictures but I think the neutral is floating at the source of the panel supply, not at the panel you have pics of.
Craig Clayton

I just got off the phone ... he's going to stop by tomorrow and trouble shoot this for me. Thanks I'll let you know the results.
 
   / 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#49  
In the setup you have with your panel, each circuit is clasified as a main. You can legaly have up to six mains.

I would agree with an earlier poster as to a neutral issue. As for testing the incoming power with the meter, one lead would go on the neutral bus and the other would be on one of the screw terminals where the larger black wires enter the bottom of the breaker panel. You should have ~240 volts between the two terminals at the bottom of the breaker panel and ~120 volts from each to the neutral bus. As suggested, test this both with and without the heat lamps connected. I expect you will find that you have less than 120 volts to the neutral bus and the voltage will lower with the heat lamps connected. If I am correct, your issue is ahead of the breaker panel and an electrician will be required.

Do you think I should also call the power company to have them check there end?
 
   / 110V Electrical Question
  • Thread Starter
#50  
It would really mess my noodle up if you got hurt/killed from my advice. :(

Probably would not do mine any good either ....
 
 
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