Brake and body work questions

   / Brake and body work questions #1  

Code54

Elite Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
4,297
Location
Putnam Co. West Virginia
Tractor
Kubota MX5100, Kubota BX25D,1957 Farmall Cub Lo-Boy Kubota KX91-3, BCS 853
As some of you know I been doing a bunch of work on my 07 Tundra (forget the exact amount but about 35k on it) Anyway two calipers went bad and ripped the rotors up so I ended up putting all new brake pad (good ones, not the cheapest ones) rotors and caliper (rebuilt ones) on all the wheels. Now I have a new issue, when i turn it squeaks like crazy, sort of sounds like thin metal dragging. When I drive straight I really don't hear anything at all, soon as the road has a decent turn it really gets loud. I looked at the dust shields and don't see any issues, and when I am braking I noticed it goes quiet. I also have anti seize on all my wheel bolts and the flat part of the rotor that contacts the wheel (so they don't stick in the future). The brakes work GREAT now, better than new I think but the noise is a problem. I don't have any idea what to work on next?

Bodywork - Learning it sssllowly, and trying to find out what works and what does not. I am working on fenders for an older Kubota and pounded out the bigger dents, sand blasted all bad spots and scuffed the rest very well. After the bondo I sanded it fairly smooth then used glazing putty for the smaller marks. Well that sort of worked but the stuff never seems to really dry. it says no hardener needed but Im not too impressed. I then bought some of the "professional" glazing type putty (by Bondo) and it used hardener and worked MUCH better. I then shot a few coats of filling primer over it (Dupli color spray can kind) I want to get a nice spray gun but the above brake issues killed that idea for a while. Anyway I let everything dry about 24hrs and noticed that every time I go and try and sand everything the sand paper loads up VERY quickly. I tried using my air jitter bug and doing it by hand and both loaded up fast even under light pressure). Is there something I am missing or doing wrong? I dont have much of a clue what I am doing but been trying to read some on the net and wing it. The fender looks 100 times better so far but it is still far from perfect. I am also thinking about getting a turbine spray system instead of using the compressor due to how much I have read about it being easier and not having water issues? Any thoughts on these things would be a great help.
Thanks!
 
   / Brake and body work questions #2  
Just a theory, but I would check the wheel bearings, thye typically make some noise when turning if they are bad, but squeaking isn't really one of them. Did you buy this truck new? Its uncommon to have a failure with a Toy at that milage. Perhaps towing or the brake failure created some heat issues on the bearings and races. You would get noise in the bearing package when you load and unload the bearings, such as turning,or braking. Jack it up and grab the bottom of the tire and check for side to side play. If any is detected, use caution and get it to the shop,based on what you said if it is the bearings,they sound like they are shot.
I take the rotors and calipers are they toyota direct replacements?

I hope I am wrong and by no means a mechanic, just based on my own personal experiences...

I had bad bearing in the rear of a CJ5 when I was 20 or so, I actually had the axle slide out of the housing while driving it home, it cooked the pads and seals. I was lucky to make it home in one piece. I know it slid out cause it was like driving on Ice in july, I jacked it up, and pulled the whole wheel assembly out of the housing without touching a wrench.
 
   / Brake and body work questions #3  
If you have everything installed correctly on the brakes. If you think it's the brakes making the noise. try some stuff called brake quite on the back of the pads. If you haven't installed everything correctly. The noise could be something else. Body work is an art. It takes time to learn it. I'm able to do enough to get by. I would never tackle a large job
 
   / Brake and body work questions
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks! I am pretty certain everything is installed correctly so the brake quite sounds like an idea. I also think I may have another problem, maybe the wheel bearing.... I did have the truck since new and it really gets fairly easy miles. Some towing but the trailer does have 4 wheel brakes and nothing over the rating (ok maybe one time but it was a real real short trip) Most trips are to Home Depot or to run the kids somewhere (I have a different vehicle I get to use for work and my wife has a SUV we use for all our normal running) Tomorrow I will jack the truck up and check the wheel bearing - I hope it is not that, I am getting tired of working on this truck!
 
   / Brake and body work questions #5  
Tomorrow I will jack the truck up and check the wheel bearing - I hope it is not that, I am getting tired of working on this truck!


That's a problem with mechanical things. They tend to require repairs;)
 
   / Brake and body work questions #6  
I helped my son in law repair the brakes on his 2010 Toyota Tundra. Had to replace the front rotors and pads. i think his truck only had about 40K on the odometer. The wheels were seized on the hub and the rotor was welded on or so it seemed. I encouraged him to put the ceramic pads back on though I am sure they were not ceramic from the factory. Some ceramic pads will squeak. Did you make sure the rotor was free to float back and fourth on its glides? That can cause some noise sometimes as the friction can cause the pad to ride against rotor.
 
   / Brake and body work questions
  • Thread Starter
#7  
On mine the rotor slides on to the wheel studs then the brake caliper slides over the rotor and bolts down. Once the wheel is placed on the truck the rotor is firmly sandwiched between the wheel and the caliper mounting bracket so it is not free to move at all. Kind of wonder if the tundras aren't having some brake problems if your son in law also had issues at such low miles..... Thanks for the idea and I am planning on looking at how the rotor mounts again this afternoon.
 
   / Brake and body work questions #8  
On the sanding of paint use water an a small amount of diswashing soap. It will clean the paper as you go. lots of water an rince as you go.What type of paint are you using?
Army Grunt
 
   / Brake and body work questions #9  
It's probably the spring clips on the pads. they're easy to twist when you're installing them. A little bit of runout in your bearings and the rotor touches them in a turn.
 
   / Brake and body work questions #10  
On mine the rotor slides on to the wheel studs then the brake caliper slides over the rotor and bolts down. Once the wheel is placed on the truck the rotor is firmly sandwiched between the wheel and the caliper mounting bracket so it is not free to move at all. Kind of wonder if the tundras aren't having some brake problems if your son in law also had issues at such low miles..... Thanks for the idea and I am planning on looking at how the rotor mounts again this afternoon.

Duh I meant to say caliper. Is the caliper free to slide back and fourth. I should never post when I am sleepy. His rotor went on the same as yours. The caliper has to be able to shift a little to allow for the wear of the pads. If you can push the caliper pistons back in a little then see if you can move the caliper side to side a little on it glides.

Check the wear indicator springs some are set out to far. just bend them so that they drag before you run out of pad.
 
 
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