Got a Colt 45 1911. Now what.

[k0ua]

Nothing for me to disagree with.....except it is becoming more clear why the simplicity of a revolver has always appealed to me....:laughing:

So, the beavertail and hammer mods are DIY?

Well Not really for most people, As the Hammer and sear have to be "fitted" most times.. There are drop in kits, but it usually requires a smith to set things right. The beavertail usually requires some work on the frame too. And a new sear spring is usually needed.... and on and on..This is why some others have suggested just get a Kimber, keep the old guy as is and enjoy it for what it is. In the old days (early 90's) There really was not an alternative, custom gunsmithing was where it was at. And we all spent a lot of money on our guns. Now you can buy an actual pistol out of the box that will run perfectly, and is suitable for competition from the get go. What is the world coming to?

James K0UA

 

[jeff9366]

kOua is right again. All parts on a Colt Govt Model interact with each other. And, every time you replace an important component, like the grip safety, your 500 round break in period resets to zero. Fooling with the sear, especially, can lead to tragic results. Let a Gunsmith do this work, if you feel it is a necessity.

It would be less expensive to buy a new or used .45ACP Kimber, Ruger or Wilson pistol which are manufactured on CNCC controlled milling machines are on going to function more reliably, stock, than a stock Colt of your vintage. Pistol machining TODAY is much precise and the parts better aligned than pistol mating THEN. And plastic with metal friction inserts, though I do not care for plastic pistols personally, is better yet; viz GLOCK.

The first things you should do before modifying the pistol is LUBE IT THOROUGHLY, leaving it slightly wet, next try aftermarket grips, of which I have tried many and like the Hogue hard-rubber grips, then shoot it at least 500 times to break it in properly. We are talking $25 for grips, 20 cents for lube + ammo. ( !! )

 

[dmccarty]

Seems like you are at the keep the 1911 as is, modify it or buy a new one.

I would be uneasy about modifying a 60 year old pistol. At this point it is a piece of history and I would be inclined to leave it alone but that is just me.

If you do go down the modification trail, I would first guestimate how much you would spend on making the changes. It might be cheaper to just buy new.

The S&W M&P in 45 caliper has greatly impressed me. It does not have a double action trigger and is very accurate out of the box. The trigger pull is the same on all rounds which does help accuracy. I would guess at this point, it only has fired 600 rounds or so, but there have been no failures to feed or any problems at all. Perfect right out of the box. The pistol also has three grips so you can find the one that fits you the best. With most handguns, you get what you get in the grip and deal with it. I used a cheap Hogue grip on an older S&W but the M&P works just fine right out of the box with one of the supplied grips.

Do make sure you have lubed the rails where the slide and frame meet. It does not take much lube, only a four or so drops depending on the pistol slide/frame. Lube and then rack the slide back and forth until you see the lube ooze out of the slide on the back and front of the pistol. You might want to search the Internet on the proper lubrication points for the 1911 since there are other places that should be lubed.

Later,
Dan

 

[reb]

I have installed two drop-in beavertails on 1911s. No frame work is required. A bit of trimming on one surface to make it work is all it takes. The fit is probably not as pretty as one done by a competent gunsmith, but it functions just as well.

 

[N80]

I have installed two drop-in beavertails on 1911s. No frame work is required. A bit of trimming on one surface to make it work is all it takes. The fit is probably not as pretty as one done by a competent gunsmith, but it functions just as well.

That is what most of the reviews said about the Wilson drop in beavertail. Some had to do no work at all and the trimming is to the part, not the frame. But, it is my understanding that the Wilson beavertail requires you to install a stub hammer. Not sure why. Maybe the stock hammer hits the aftermarket beavertail?

 

[Gator6x4]

That is what most of the reviews said about the Wilson drop in beavertail. Some had to do no work at all and the trimming is to the part, not the frame. But, it is my understanding that the Wilson beavertail requires you to install a stub hammer. Not sure why. Maybe the stock hammer hits the aftermarket beavertail?

Review this you tube video on how to install the Wilson drop in beavertail. Colt 1911 Wilson "drop-in" beavertail grip safety installation - YouTube

 

[reb]

I didn't watch all the video, but the comments mention that the spur-type handle must be replaced when the beavertail is intallled. I believe hammer spur is too long for the beavertail. The two I did had the newer model hammer.

BTW, George, here is an excellent video showing the assembly and operation of the 1911:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6SmlOEzNBs

 

[N80]

Wilson says you have to replace the stock hammer. Thanks for the video links.