Well pressure tnak issue.

   / Well pressure tnak issue. #1  

flyerdan

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
1,655
Location
Salem, OR
Tractor
Hyster H50 Bobcat M700
I have my outside faucets on a well, which is located in a bedroom closet under the floor, not the most ideal place to work. It had been working fine until recently when a motor issue started kicking the shutdown on the motor. Pulled it and fixed a couple of wires going from the pressure switch to the motor board, and replacing the rear bearing which was making metal. Runs great now, and after replacing an eroded foot valve that wouldn't hold a column of water, got it to prime and pump.
Now it runs up to 20 pounds on the gauge and stays there, whether an outside tap is on or not. I'm sure that I lost the air charge in the tank, but it has no schrader valve, never did, and it worked fine, off at about 50 psi and on at 30. I had this happen before when I had to pull it to replace the ceramic pump seals, but forgot how I got it to charge, I think it just started working somehow.
There are four unused ports, visible in the picture, two on the side near the bottom, one higher up which is almost up against the 2x4 brace, and one on the top. I really hate the idea of trying to remove one of those plugs, as the tank is unsecured and I don't want to risk breaking the bottom pipe and causing more problems. Plus, it doesn't leak and holds pressure now. If adding a schrader valve is necessary, could it be done through a T behind the union at the pump outlet? The gate valve shuts off flow to the outside, so any air would have to go into the tank.

100_1086.jpg
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #2  
From what I see, and what I know about wells... you have the wrong tank. You have a retention tank and you need a bladder tank. The tank you have works for a chlorine contact tank or for a submersible well that delivers an air charge every time the pump comes on. That air chamber is then maintained by a float switch (the upper bung hole on the side) which released the extra air until the water level stops it.
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #3  
Does not look like a "pressure tank" to me either. Looks like a storage tank. Could it be that there is another tank on the system somewhere?
I think the ports are so the tank can be used in different configurations. It probably had a jacuzzi pump at one time.
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #4  
Our jet pump and tank at work just uses a big galvanized tank and the pump/switch. I just changed the noisy motor last week.

We just drain the tank down to 2/3 level, put the bung in and go.
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #5  
Where is the pressure switch?
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #6  
The pressure switch must be under the 2x4 - the little black hose coming from the front of the pump just under the gauge goes to the switch.

However, even though it may work, that really is the wrong tank for this configuration. A plain galvanized tank is usually placed "in" the water path, with the water flowing through the tank, not "adjacent" to it. The configuration in this picture would work best with a bladder tank - one that has a charge of 28 psi, since you have a 30psi "cut-in".

That said, you could still use the setup you have - but you need to make sure you have an air charge in the tank. If they can be removed you can try this:
  • Turn off the power so the pump cannot run.
  • Open the faucet outside to relieve the pressure
  • Remove the plug in the top of the tank
  • Allow the tank to fully drain
  • Replace top plug and close faucet
  • Turn power back on

This should get it back working as long as the pump is actually pumping water and making pressure. If the pump impellers are too worn, even though the pump may pump water at low pressure, it may be that the pump cannot build pressure.
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #7  
Forget the tank and replace a worn out pump.

your tank looks like an ordinary galvanised pressure tank with no air bladder. Means that the air you put in will dissapear over time.

If you wish to add air pull the top bung and replace it with one that is tapped for a zerk. Various ways to pipe a schrader into the top bung opening. Depends on fittings available.

If you pull and replace the pump there will be lots of possible piping configurations available.

If removing top bung put a ratcheting strap around the tank to hold it.
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue.
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Here's what I've done. I pulled the 1/2" plug that faces the 2x4 and put in a street elbow with a bushing and a schrader valve. The location is just below the halfway point on the tank. Am currently waiting for it to charge, as I set my regulator at 28 psi and have a clamp on tire chuck.
The pressure switch is on the side of the motor under the floor joist; I never messed with the settings or took the hose off, just the romex and motor wires.
I was working fine before this, so the pump being worn out is moot. Hopefully this will get it going, if there was room to get at the back of the motor I never would have broke the water lines.
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #9  
If the pump only builds up to twenty pounds pressure and holds there with no outlets open the well suction is at water level, the pump is worn or you are at an extremely high altitude with low pressure.
 
   / Well pressure tnak issue. #10  
Our jet pump and tank at work just uses a big galvanized tank and the pump/switch. I just changed the noisy motor last week.

We just drain the tank down to 2/3 level, put the bung in and go.
this is right
 
 
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