Replacing ign. coil(s) on 2.2L 4-cyl Chevy S10

[BamaRob]

My commuter truck ('97 Chev. S10) has a miss in it, especially when shifting from 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th (manual 5-speed). Once the RPMs get back up to normal operating range, it runs OK (not great, but OK). I had my mechanic take a look at it yesterday and he diagnosed it as a ign. coil problem. So, I picked up a couple of coils today at lunch (the 2.2L has two coils with 2 contacts on each). With just a cursory glance at the engine, I'm assuming that they are located on the right side of the engine (appear to be mounted somewhere near the oil filter... at least that where it appears the plug wires lead).

How big of a job is it to change them out? Like I say, I haven't looked closely at it. Are there any other things needed other than the new coils and the proper tools/wrenches (i.e. any gaskets/sealants? etc.?)?

Thanks,

BR

 

[TractorLegend]

I just did one of these last week at our shop. I felt a bit like Helen Keller, working by feel. It can be done in the vehicle without removing the module plate they are attached to. I think the hoist made all the difference however...It could be real tough on jackstands, since you have to work from underneath. You can remove the oil filter for better access. I used a 1/4 drive flex head ratchet with a deep 5.5mm socket (if memory serves me) and also for the rear bolts by the coil towers themselves I needed a 2 in extension. I marked the wires with paint and did one coil at a time. I had to reach around the frame doing some by feel and trying to hold my Streamlight flashlight at the same time. Tighten gradually both sides evenly. One of my bolts dropped and didn't make a sound, so i assumed it was on the frame, looking/feeling all around and using a magnet stick, i never found it and got a new one (Murphy's help) It's some odd size not found in nature---a dealer had to get it from another dealer for us.
I recommend using AC Delcos O.E. factory double platinum type plugs in these and changing the wires if they are old, it's worth the money---AutoZone should have them. There is some small chance a misfire could be from a faulty module not energizing the coil but in my recent case it was a combo of wrong plugs (one short reach and three long reach autolite non platinums) baked cheapie wires and corroded coil terminals.
With a hoist and all the tools I'd say it took me about an hour.
It helps to get the air out of the coil boot with a paperclip straightened out so they dont pop off when the vehicle heats up---I slide it inside the boot a ways, snap down wire and remove clip and air comes out with it- also anti seize the plug threads and put a dab of silicone tune up paste on plug wire boots. I dont put silicone on the tapered coil and distr. cap terminals because it aids in them popping off too easy when driving.
Good luck!!

 

[BamaRob]

Thanks for the input. I just walked back in from looking at it again. Doesn't look like it'll be too tough, though I don't have access to a lift or jackstands. I'll be laying on a sheet of plywood under the truck. Wish me luck.

Thx,

BR

 

[Bully]

I think the module, coils, and heater core were the first thing down the assembly line. The rest of the vehicle was built around those parts. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[BamaRob]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Doesn't look like it'll be too tough, though I don't have access to a lift or jackstands. I'll be laying on a sheet of plywood under the truck. Wish me luck.
)</font>

Well, I got the coil assemblies changed out. Talk about being in a tight spot! And, after changing them out, it didn't make any difference in the way it ran. Bummer! So, I called my wife who was in town and had her go by the parts place and pick up a set of plugs and plug wires. After replacing those (going into some even tighter spots!), it seems to be running good. All of the old plugs looked good, so it must have been a bad plug wire causing the miss. Anyhow, I'm glad it's over with.

Later,

BR