Building suspended shelves in a pole barn

[CTyler]

I need help on how to build aprox 28' of shelving on the inside of my pole barn. The short side has poles(3 - 2x6) 10' OC and I have added studs 2' OC for extra bat insulation, electrical outlets etc..

The shelf will extend out 33" and needs to be suspended so it is clear underneath to park the riding lawnmower and heavy implements. The light wieght implements like the sprayer, cone spreader, push mower will be stored on the shelf up and out of the way.

So far the only thing thats been done is to nail up the 2x6 ledger board. The initial plan is to put up joist hangers, joists and a rim joist and use 3/4 OSB or ply for the floor of the shelf. The plan on how to suspend it is in the air and how much weight can it hold?

There is nothing directly above the shelf location to mount anything. So the thinking was to chain or cable the shelf to the studs and poles with aprox 4' spacing. So what would be the best way to do this?

Thanks
Chris

 

[rdln]

sounds like for the weight of items that you are storing, 2x4 joists on 24" centers should span the 33" easily with a beam or rim joist? of another 2x6 should span between 8' threaded rod or cable, or crs rod welded to brackets to go underneath 2x6 beam and over top chord of trusses. If you put at angle back to wall would that interfere with long items the you wish to store?

Also those hangars can add up, Unless you own Simpson stock why not nail joist on side to top of ledger and beam? Maybe the 1.5 inch gap would not be aesthetically pleasing?

 

[gotrocks]

If the load is light then the method I used would work. I drilled into the edge of my 2x4 studs (24" centers) and cut used water pipe to length and tapped them into the holes. Nothing under and nothing over to interfere with loading etc.
I've got some of them loaded with a stack of lumber, however my shelves are not 33 inches wide.

 

[CTyler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( sounds like for the weight of items that you are storing, 2x4 joists on 24" centers should span the 33" easily with a beam or rim joist? )</font>

Agreed, 2x4's 24" OC for the joists. Perhaps my terminolgy is not correct. I'm assuming the outside board nailed to the joists is called a rim joist.


</font><font color="blue" class="small">( of another 2x6 should span between 8' threaded rod or cable, or crs rod welded to brackets to go underneath 2x6 beam and over top chord of trusses. )</font>

Are you saying the rim joist should actually be a beam, 2-2x6's nailed together? Or just where they butt together?
My assumption is but them together half way between the joists then nail another 2x6 to the backside to beam that 2' portion.

My nearest truss is 8' out since this is on the gable side of the building. I don't think I'm following you correctly on this.

Also what does the bracket look like? I have plenty of 3/8 steel plate and bars I can weld up.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you put at angle back to wall would that interfere with long items the you wish to store? )</font>
Yes, it could. I should have posed it as a question on how far apart the supports can be. Lag bolting a plate to the poles so thier 10' apart would be good. One end will actully be supported by a small wall that will enclose the air compressor.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also those hangars can add up, Unless you own Simpson stock why not nail joist on side to top of ledger and beam? Maybe the 1.5 inch gap would not be aesthetically pleasing? )</font>
Thats an option.

 

[rdln]

<font color="blue"> Perhaps my terminolgy is not correct </font>

It might technically be a rim joist, I am not a carpenter. A single board on edge would be acting as a beam
to support joists away from ledger

<font color="blue"> this is on the gable side of the building. I don't </font> .

Oh, You did say there was nothing above for support! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Also what does the bracket look like? I have plenty of 3/8 steel plate and bars I can weld up.

3/8 is a waste 1/8, 8ga would be fine.
see pics

10' apart might wanna use 2x8 rim joist

 

[CTyler]

The bracket is what I was thinking just wanted to be sure. The 3/8 material is overkill however it was free and have plenty. Thanks for your input.

 

[EddieWalker]

Have you considered boxing in your shelving? Kitchen cabinets get their strength from the side pices and just attach the the back wall.

When the top is fastened, the square shape gives you all the strength as it rests against the wall.

If you want open ends, than tie some posts into your rafters and have them hang down. Use bolts with washers to get them them really tight and it will never go anyplace.

Why 33 inches? It's incredibly wasteful on material and what do you have that needs this much flat area?

Standard is either 12 inches or 24 inches.

Eddie

 

[CTyler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Have you considered boxing in your shelving? Kitchen cabinets get their strength from the side pices and just attach the the back wall. )</font>

Yes, however I want to place/park large items under the shelf.
Items like the riding, mower w/shade cover, 3pt chipper, carry all...etc

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If you want open ends, than tie some posts into your rafters and have them hang down. Use bolts with washers to get them them really tight and it will never go anyplace. )</font>

Nothing up above to tie to, the nearest truss is 8' from the gable wall.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Why 33 inches? It's incredibly wasteful on material and what do you have that needs this much flat area? )</font>

This more of a storage platform. The items that need that much space are 3pt implements like the sprayer and cone spreader. Other items are a garden cart for the riding mower, push mower and other seasonal items.

33" is a compromise on being big enough to hold the items and leaving enough room walk by the truck, tractor etc..
This is the left over area at the end of the shop were the big door is located so there is not a lot of room.

 

[EddieWalker]

CTyler,

I guess I wasn't clear on the shelving. Kitchen cabinets do not attach to the ceiling. Just the wall. If you have tall cabinets, they might look touch the ceiling, but they are still fastened to the side wall.

This way there is nothing going from the floor to the shelf, or from the ceiling.

Eddie

 

[CTyler]

Checking with several harware stores trying to find the bracket you pictured got some blank stares and head scratching. So I finally just built my own with some 3/16 channel and plate that was laying around, didn't have to use the 3/8 stuff after all.

Here is a pic of the lower bracket. The channel is 10" wide, the plate is 3" wide with 5/8" rod bolted thru it.