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  1. #11
    Silver Member BigBoyinMS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    242
    Location
    Central Mississippi
    Tractor
    '73 MF135 & Montana 4540

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    Quote Originally Posted by Jkochosc View Post
    Hi, I had an older model that I had to let go of and just bought a newer one. How do I determine if it has a pto or not?
    (If I remember correctly) PTO models have a connection between the transmission and the tines with bolts you can loosen and swing out to the side to remove the tines and tine drive.

    Here's a manual on a Horse model... http://www.troybilt.com/wcsstore/Tro.../769-03557.pdf
    They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.
    Ben Franklin
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1973 MF135 Perkins Gas and 2006 Montana 4540 w/FEL

  2. #12
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Posts
    2,059
    Location
    russellville, arkansas
    Tractor
    Kubota M4900, B7510 and RTV

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    i "think" the pto model also has a lever on the side that puts the tines in and out of gear: the older ones did not have this, an the tines were running any time the tiller was moving..either are good machines...not 100% sure they are worth the high prices some people put on them?? last year i had sold all of my tillers an had to borrow one, now i have a total of 7 troybilt tillers in various states of dis-repair..counting the one i borrowed: but the most i paid was $350 for one older model in pretty good condition, an it came with an even older one, without an motor. i bought one of the pto models for $75 that had a blown briggs engine..but the rest of it looks like new..ALL of them have leaking wheel seals.
    heehaw

  3. #13
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    594
    Tractor
    Mahindra 4510

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    Quote Originally Posted by heehaw View Post
    i "think" the pto model also has a lever on the side that puts the tines in and out of gear: the older ones did not have this, an the tines were running any time the tiller was moving..either are good machines...not 100% sure they are worth the high prices some people put on them?? last year i had sold all of my tillers an had to borrow one, now i have a total of 7 troybilt tillers in various states of dis-repair..counting the one i borrowed: but the most i paid was $350 for one older model in pretty good condition, an it came with an even older one, without an motor. i bought one of the pto models for $75 that had a blown briggs engine..but the rest of it looks like new..ALL of them have leaking wheel seals.
    heehaw
    I was going to mention the seal issues to the OP, dirt being ground into them on a daily basis does not promote longevity. I find changing them not too bad and if you can, try to keep the outer housing clean as possible after replacement by using brake cleaner to remove any excess lube that will cause dirt to stick. Another shortcoming of all tillers is their air filtration systems, I have fitted a few with the old Wisconsin stack type air filter assemblys, the further from the dirt you can take your air in, the longer the machine will last.

  4. #14
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    6,729
    Location
    SW WA
    Tractor
    Kubota BX2360

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    Quote Originally Posted by peterc38 View Post
    I think the Horse and Pony models are still made as good as the older models. The price reflect this of course at $1899 MSRP for the Horse model.

    I walked by one in Lowes last week.

    $2495

    Bruce

  5. #15
    Silver Member BigBoyinMS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    242
    Location
    Central Mississippi
    Tractor
    '73 MF135 & Montana 4540

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    Seems like prices on the Horse model hasn't changed "too" much in the last 20 years. I bought a new one about 20 years ago during their annual scratch and dent sale and I remember the "before discount" price was up near the prices listed. I actually ended up getting a new one since they ran out after they took the order.
    They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.
    Ben Franklin
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1973 MF135 Perkins Gas and 2006 Montana 4540 w/FEL

  6. #16
    Gold Member MiserableOldFart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    262
    Location
    Delaware County Catskills NY
    Tractor
    NH TC26DA, Kubota GR2120

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    go with the Koehler! Great engines, and my buddy who was in the biz says they are very simple to rebuild if you ever need to.

    My mom's 1979 machine starts on the first pull after sitting for months since I put an electronic ignition model on it a few years ago. Put on new tines last year - if you need them look for the original type replacements because the newer "generics" have an extra bolt hole that you won't need. I have read (not sure how true) that this bolt hole can cause breakage problems.

    The tires were all rotten and held air only for a few hours. This spring, as a last hurrah before tire replacement I threw in some stuff from TSC that supposedly stops leaks and they haven't required air since. Might get a few years more out of em, until they just completely let loose.

    Check the gear oil level on the machine and be sure it's full. Then look carefully at the seals on the front axle and the tine axle in the back, and be sure they're not leaking. Seals are not too difficult to replace, but on Mom's machine, one of the ones in front has a slight leak and despite many people looking at it and replacing the seals (did it myself last,) it has not stopped. No visible scratch on the axle or any roughness in the hub to be felt whatsoever. It doesn't drip that much in use to cause any problems, but when sitting for a couple months in the hot weather in the shed can drip quite a bit, so I just raise the left wheel on a block of wood to stop it. Other than that, the machine has been extremely reliable and has dug many tons of Catskill Mountain rocks out of the garden.

    I believe Mom paid $880 for the machine with the hiller/ furrower and shipping.
    Last edited by MiserableOldFart; 12-15-2011 at 11:55 PM. Reason: addition
    New Holland TC 26 DA + FEL
    Kubota GR2120
    Bush Hog RDTH 60
    Woods 6ft. back blade
    Countyline Post Hole Digger
    Allied Snow Blower

  7. #17
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Posts
    2,059
    Location
    russellville, arkansas
    Tractor
    Kubota M4900, B7510 and RTV

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    if its like the ones i have, if there is a lever to stop the tines from turning while moving the tiller across the yard, its a pto model: some people think the ones without the pto are stronger???? i've never been able to break either one...other than the normal stuff like wheel seals etc: which are a big deal if they get to bad, and you can't get the wheels off...like i have run into on one of the older models.
    heehaw

  8. #18
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Posts
    2,059
    Location
    russellville, arkansas
    Tractor
    Kubota M4900, B7510 and RTV

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    i forgot to mention..i have had tb tiller's with every engine they offered...and they all work fine...but i am replacing two kohlers with the engines offered at harbor freight, just because they are so hard to start: then again, a friend has a 7hp kohler on his tb, and it
    starts on the second or third pull every year..
    heehaw

  9. #19
    Veteran Member GolfAddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    2,337
    Location
    SE Minnesota
    Tractor
    Kubota BX24; John Deere 4020

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    I bought an old used Horse that runs great, but will "pop out of gear" all the time. That is, the lever that engages the wheels will not stay in very well at all. Don't know how common that is, but maybe something you want to look at closely. It can be a bit dangerous if you have any sort of slope between your garden and storage facility, as when it pops out the tiller will take off free wheeling. If you're heading down, hang on!! and if heading up, try not to let it come back and run over you...

    At the risk of hi-jacking the thread a bit, can anyone tell me if they have seen this? What the fix for that is and how easy or difficult to remedy?

  10. #20
    Bronze Member stihlman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    81
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Tractor
    Kubota L3830 HST

    Default Re: Buying a Used Troy Bilt Horse Tiller

    Golf Addict: the first thing to check when a Troy Bilt pops out of gear is the belt tension block for adjustment. Look down at the bottom of the clutch lever on top of the transmission and you will see a spring and roller assmebly that snaps over the end of a metal block that has a bolt on the back. Look at a manual for your tiller and it will explain the proper procedure to make sure the belt tension is correct for your tiller.

    Steve
    Stihlman

    Kubota L3830 HST with LA723 loader
    ZD326P

    Stihl Chainsaws:
    MS660
    056 Mag II
    MS441R M-Tronic
    MS362R M-Tronic
    MS361
    MS261
    MS260
    MS211
    015 L
    HT 131

    Lots of other antique saws:
    Certified "gold level chainsaw nut"

    Lincoln SA200 ( 1966 Redface )
    Lincoln IdealArc 250 (1975)

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