BCS Tiller
- Thread starter jbiller79
- Start date
ferrari99
Gold Member
Here is the link to a chart. You should be able to work it out from there.
http://www.earthtoolsbcs.com/BCS_Model_Chart1.pdf
http://www.earthtoolsbcs.com/BCS_Model_Chart1.pdf
WTorres
New member
Hi ther to all, i have a 720 BCS tiller that the clutch is frozen and cant fix it, decide to buy another one, is ther any website i can buy on the internet, with out goin to a dealer? any sugestion? Thanks William
super55
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
- Messages
- 920
- Location
- Great North of Michigan
- Tractor
- Oliver Super55, John Deere 4310, John Deere 4400, Kubota L2500 (had),
Earthtools is probably one of the best websites on the net in the US for BCS tractors and implements. They have a wide array of implements for these tractors.
The lawncare company I worked for years ago had a BCS tractor similar to yours but Im not sure of the model but I'm guessing that it is from the late 80's to early 90's. There should be a data plate somewhere on it that will identify the model of the tractor.
The one we had also had a 10 hp Acme motor on it and I was not found of it in any way. It was hard to start and hard to keep running. We called a local repair shop that used to be a BCS dealer but had since dropped the product line and parts for it were extremely high. This was also back way back when the internet didn't have all the sources that it does now. Long story short we replaced the 10 hp Acme with a 12 hp B/S motor and the thing worked fantastic ever since.
I keep my eye open for one locally for sale but they aren't overly popular but they are very well built sturdy and durable pieces of equipment. The other thing is that they are usually incredibly heavy but thats not a bad thing when you ask it to withstand the punishment a lot people put these thing through.
The lawncare company I worked for years ago had a BCS tractor similar to yours but Im not sure of the model but I'm guessing that it is from the late 80's to early 90's. There should be a data plate somewhere on it that will identify the model of the tractor.
The one we had also had a 10 hp Acme motor on it and I was not found of it in any way. It was hard to start and hard to keep running. We called a local repair shop that used to be a BCS dealer but had since dropped the product line and parts for it were extremely high. This was also back way back when the internet didn't have all the sources that it does now. Long story short we replaced the 10 hp Acme with a 12 hp B/S motor and the thing worked fantastic ever since.
I keep my eye open for one locally for sale but they aren't overly popular but they are very well built sturdy and durable pieces of equipment. The other thing is that they are usually incredibly heavy but thats not a bad thing when you ask it to withstand the punishment a lot people put these thing through.
WTorres
New member
THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR INFORMATION, in fact i need the clutch for my tiller mine got froze due water, the boot broke so i assume water got the clutch, but i will check my SN, and Model before i come back
Hiptfarms
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2013
- Messages
- 303
- Location
- Fairfield County, SC
- Tractor
- Kubota M6800 with BH FEL, Kubota L4400 HST with FEL, Polaris Ranger, BCS 720
There is a lot of info on this site at the two wheel tractor forum area.
farmerboybill
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2008
- Messages
- 783
- Location
- Southwestern Wisconsin
- Tractor
- BCS 850 diesel and 735 diesel
It has 5 speeds in tiller mode, 2 speeds in mower mode, differential with steering brakes, and splined PTO. It's a 735.
farmerboybill
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2008
- Messages
- 783
- Location
- Southwestern Wisconsin
- Tractor
- BCS 850 diesel and 735 diesel
Torres,
You probably don't need a new clutch. Take the engine off, pull the clutch, and squeeze it front-to-back on a heavy bench vise. Once it pops, put it all back together. When not in use, leave the clutch disengaged (lever squeezed).
You probably don't need a new clutch. Take the engine off, pull the clutch, and squeeze it front-to-back on a heavy bench vise. Once it pops, put it all back together. When not in use, leave the clutch disengaged (lever squeezed).