Truck Lighting and Things

[Lloyd_E]

I know this may not be the correct forum or site but I do appreciate the collective knowledge of TBN.

My plan is to make a roof rack for my supercab F150. It will bolt on cap and
will extend over cab. I plan on wiring two sets of work light forward and aft.

See attached pic for reference. My question is: Can I wire two sets of 55 watt lights - separate circuit - switch for each to this unit and how bright are 55 watt bulbs.

Many thanks....

Lloyd

 

[GaryM]

Well, I don't see the picture or a link to the picture....

Yes, you can do what you are asking about, as long as your electrical system can handle the load. Two 55 watt bulbs are going to pull approx. 10 amps. That's for each set. If you're only going to run one set at a time it doesn't matter how many sets you have. In fact, you could use a single-pole, double-throw, center-off switch. That would ensure that only one set at a time could be energized.

It might also be advisable to wire the switch to the lights through a relay. That way the switch has to handle a lot less current than if it were switching the full 10 A.

Depending on the material your shell is constructed of, you'll probably want to run a ground wire back to the truck frame, or even back to the battery. And be sure to fuse the power lead as close to the battery as possible. Don't ask how I learned to do that!

Oh, and about the brightness? Depends on the type of bulb. Is it regular old incandesent, or halogen or xenon? What kind of reflector and lens. The wider the beam the dimmer it will appear.

 

[schmism]

i have these on my truck

Amazon.com: Hella HLA-H13750601: Model 500 Driving Lamp Kit: Automotive

inexpensive and super bright....

youll want to run a set through a relay (should be included in the above kit) otherwise youll burn up the switch.

FYI roof mounted lights send a lot of glare into your view from light reflected off the hood.

 

[GaryM]

Hella used to make, and maybe still does, a nice set of lights. But I don't think that's what Lloyd_E is looking for. He said work lights. And to me that means for use while stationary. Maybe he plans to work on the run though?

You're correct about the glare too. Some folks put a shield on the bottom of the light to ensure that it's blocked from hitting the hood.

I used to have a set of lights mounted on a grill guard for my '78 Bronco. They actually had two filaments in each unit. One was a spot while the other was a flood. This was a sealed beam unit. Worked pretty well, but the spot was so tight that it was not much use here in Missouri. Probably be nice out in the desert though.

 

[Lloyd_E]

Gary/Schmism,

Thanks for the replies. Yes they will be work lights. I thinking now I don't need a set for the front - use truck high beam or fog lights.

Tried to attach photo of sketch - no go...will try again plus the finish unit.

Many thanks again.

Lloyd

 

[Grrrr]

Gary/Schmism,

Thanks for the replies. Yes they will be work lights. I thinking now I don't need a set for the front - use truck high beam or fog lights.

Tried to attach photo of sketch - no go...will try again plus the finish unit.

Many thanks again.

Lloyd

Just one thing, when you come to wire the lights up, make sure you use thich enough cables and fuse them properly. Those lights will be drawing a lot of electricity.

 

[chadincolo]

Gary/Schmism,

Thanks for the replies. Yes they will be work lights. I thinking now I don't need a set for the front - use truck high beam or fog lights.

Tried to attach photo of sketch - no go...will try again plus the finish unit.

Many thanks again.

Lloyd

It looks to me like you are planning on building your rack so it bolts to the cap and to the pickup cab? You don't want to do that, the bed and cab move separately, if you bolt to the cap and the cab, something's going to have to give, and I would guess it would be cracking the fiberglass.

 

[Lloyd_E]

Chadincolo,

I thought about that. The plan is to bolt to cap - four legs/feet above the vertical cap supports. The front two legs/feet will float/rest over the cab. All feet will have 1/4 to 3/8 foam between rack and cab/cap.

The rack will carry canoe and gear. Most of the gear will be placed on the cap area. We will probably carry a few bales of hay to the odd horse event.

I'm using used 1" square tub from another project. Most of it is welded already - just have to add sides and legs/feet. Even the legs/feet are drilled!

If it bangs too much I will make a smaller rack - lots of material - just for the cap. Once again - many thanks. This is what I like about TBN - great resource for info.

Lloyd

 

[dbdartman]

Yes, the cab & bed move independently of each other. Personally, I'd rather see the rack's front over the cab cantilevered WITHOUT feet to the cab roof. IMHO, it wont' matter how thick you make your pads, the feet will scuff the paint off & dent the roof.

Not many people remember Ford made a "one-piece" pick-up truck back in the later 50's (57 or 58), to compete with the stylish Chevy Cameo & Dodge's version (the name escapes me at the moment, but it used station wagon quarters & tail lights on the truck bed). The Ford truck was a failure of monumental proportions!! Because the cab & bed were one-piece, if you didn't load the bed evenly (both side to side & fore & aft) you couldn't open the doors! Because of this, there were very very few made & even fewer in existence today.

 

[Lloyd_E]

dbdartman/chadincolo,

Ok...starting to see the logic. Took some stuff to the dump today and kept an eye in the rear view mirror and was amazed how much flex there is. Welded the rack up today. Feet will go on next week. I will grind/cut front and angle down side bars and reweld. It will cantilever about 3'. Other than the canoe there wont be much placed forward off the cap. There will be cross pieces welded in place.

Hope this works...will post pics later.


Many thanks....


Lloyd