Wiring for driveway lights & gate actuator

[frank29]

I'm getting ready to replace my main water line from the meter to my home. While I'm doing this I'd like to take advantage of the trench and bury some electrical wires. Purpose of electric service would be for an electric gate and driveway lighting. I've got some concerns/questions.

First, the wiring will be in a conduit. I aSSume the electric lines should be separated from the water line (water line in bottom of trench, partially back fill, add wires and compete backfilling)?

Next, I've got a 5,000 foot reel of #6 solid core, THHN single conductor copper wire I'd like to take advantage of. I was thinking I need to run a total of 6 wires. Three wires would be dedicated to providing electric service primarily to operating an electric gate. This circuit would have a breaker in the home's load center with another little load center at the gate. The other three wires would be for lights at 50 intervals along the driveway. I'd like to be able to control the lights from my home.

Distance from load center to gate is 400 feet.

Distance for lighting circuit is 600 feet (100 from load center to driveway; than 300 to gate in one direction and 200 up driveway in other direction). How should I handle the stubs every 50 feet to a light? Is there a way to tap into a line without cutting it? Maybe the 6 gauge is overkill; but, it is no cost (other than conduit) and has been sitting in my barn for many years.

Finally, I'm interested in providing wiring for a driveway door bell. What gauge/how many conductor wire should be used for this? This would be a 400 foot run.

Thanks for any input on any of the above concerns.

 

[VABlue]

I'm not an electrician, so take this for what its costing you! 6ga wire will be fine for the gate opener (I suspect it runs off a standard 120v/20amp circuit), although a little overdone. Is it rated for outdoor/underground use? If so, you probably don't even need the conduit, unless it won't be trenched very deep.

The lighting, though, is a different matter... Most driveway type lights are low voltage, and 6ga wire will not work for it. You'll need to buy separate 'low voltage' wire. But if they are standard 120v lamps, the 6ga will work. You can find wire clamps/crimps to tap into the line without cutting it, and run the tap in a conduit to the surface.

Now for the danger warnings: 6ga wire will carry far more current than the gate and lamps can manage. You'll also have more current loss to deal with, so getting the breakers right is important. If anything shorts you'll have an electrical fire in no time if you don't have the right breakers. I suggest you contact an electrician to ensure you can use it safely.

 

[reasley]

Personally, I would save the #6 wire for another application unless you are planning on running additional power out to the gate area.

My gate system (500 feet from home) runs off of two batteries that are charged in my home. The wiring necessary for that is way minimal compared to #6. I think that it was 16/2. On the other hand, I *did* want to run power out to the goosenecks where the pxomity card/keypad readers are located, so I ran 6/2 from a 20 amp circuit inside the home. A friend put together a nice Excel calcualtor for measuring voltage drop, and I think that the 6/2 provides 15 amps 500' away from the source.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

One of the more interesting moments in my life as a fenceman involved electrical service and the water supply in the same trench. It was on the property and the current owner didn't have a clue how the water and electrical got out to the barn.

I found them at the same time with the same auger drilling a post hole. The thrill was mulitplied by the fact that the electrical was bootlegged from the meter bypassing all breakers.

I can't imagine a situation where I'd approve of electrical cable, even in conduit, and water in the same trench. But then I'm the guy most likely to discover such foolishness and pay the price. Here in Texas the electrical is always deeper than the water, but then we don't have that cold some places enjoy.

 

[Kendall69]

Water and electric in same trench is not a good thing. If you need to repair the water you have to work under electric.

 

[VinnieNC]

Hello,

I just wanted to comment on the "driveway door bell" you mentioned. I'm not sure if you intend on having a doorbell button at the gate for people to push to let you know they are there or something else. I can tell you what I have and I love it. My driveway is 500 feet from the house. I buried a wire with my water line to take advantage of the trench. I have a loop buried at the end of the driveway, about a car length in. At the house, I have a Loop Detector, like they use for traffic lights. It detects whenever a car, tractor, motorcycle or similar vehicle crosses the loop. I have a chime connected to the relay contacts, so when someone goes in or out, I hear the chime in the house. The wire for the loop detector is very low (no) voltage signal so the electrical hazzard is minimal. The great part is that it is buried and no one can tell it is there. It is nice to get a few seconds warning when someone is driving in.

-Vinnie

 

[Paddy]

Consider selling 5000' of 6 gage as scrap. Take the money and buy direct bury 10 gage. Skip the conduit. Techically H2O and ele should not be in the same trench but direct bury is meant to be able to take water and sunlight.

My well is 205' down and 200' from the house. At 400' and quite a big draw, all is fine with 10 gage.

I would like to see the eyes on the beer can scrappers as you brought in your Cu wire

Patrick T.