Setting T Posts for Electric Horse Fence

[Rory_Rhodes]

Part One.

I need to set several hundred t-posts that will be used to temporarily contain the horses during the construction phase of my latest project. 1800 feet of fence, divided by 6 foot spacing = 300 posts that I do not want to drive by hand. So, here's my question.

How can I best utilize the FEL on my L3130 or the bucket or forks on my skid steer to set the in straight and at a consistent depth. Okay, the depth should be a problem but straight (both plumb and in a straight line) would be a priority.

The fence will utilize electric snap tape - the wider variety.

Part Two (Coming Soon) - Setting 4000 feet of four board fence in a neat and consistent line otherwise known as things I wish I would have known in advance.

[WTA]

I know a lot of people disagree with how I did my horse fence but I only placed my t posts 25 feet apart. We haven't had one escape yet in 4 years. Not unless one of the kids left a gate open at least. I have 4 strands of high tension wire on all the boundry fences and two long runs of the tape like you plan to use and it is all on 25 foot spaced t posts.

Since you are going to be taking it down anyway sometime is there really any point in putting up so many? I wish we could afford wood fencing here. There aren't enough trees in the whole county probably to fence my place in though.

If you are as picky about super straight fence lines as I am then you'll probably end up driving them by hand like me.
I tried getting a couple friends of mine to help once and we used the loader to push them in on that one fence line but the two of them drank two 30 packs of bud while they were helping and I ended up pulling all those posts back up and resetting them myself, by hand, because it was about as crooked as the county roads around here.

The way I got all mine straight was to set the wood corner posts and then run my top high tension line between them and crank it up tight. It still was laying on the ground without being on the t posts but that was ok. I eyeballed the wire straight between the corners and used the wire as a reference for putting in the t posts. It worked perfect for me.

[MikePA]

How can I best utilize the FEL on my L3130 or the bucket or forks on my skid steer to set the in straight and at a consistent depth. Okay, the depth should be a problem but straight (both plumb and in a straight line) would be a priority.

I'll share my experience setting T posts using the FEL on my NH TC25D. First, I marked every post with a depth line so I could see from the tractor how far the post was in the ground. Marking each post also helps you know if you hit rock. I also marked, using construction spray paint, the location for every post.

The process took 2 people. One to hold the T Post and one on the tractor. One person holds the T post until the bucket just touches the T post. Then they get way out of the way to watch and make sure the T post is going in straight. I tried adding weight to the FEL, but if I hit rock, nothing helped. I also placed a hand T Post driver on top of the post to increase the surface area the bucket contacted.

If you hit rock, the post will either stop going in or veer off plumb. In such situations, several things can happen.

1. Post keeps going in, at a slight angle.
2. Post slips off the FEL bucket, which can be very dangerous.
3. The front of the tractor comes off the ground.

With Items 2 and 3, you have to move the post a little (left/right or front/back) and start all over.

If you have rocky soil, this will be a long, frustrating task.

I used this method for about 20 T posts around our small riding ring. I bought a post driver to fence in 3 acres.

You'll also want to cap each T Post for safety reasons.

For your 4,000' of 4 board fence, I'd definitely recommend a post driver. It turns a multi-step job using a post hole digger into a one step job. A post driver can also set T Posts.

EDIT:
WTA's post reminded me I used a similar technique for marking the locations for the posts. I set the corner posts first, making sure to keep them far enough away from a tree line, creek, etc. to allow enough room to get a tractor and mower on the outside of the fence to keep the grass mowed.

I then pulled a string between the corner posts and used a 7.5 foot 2" x 4" to mark the post locations. No need for a tape measure. I used 7.5 feet between posts (4" x 4" x 8' PT) because I thought I might eventually want to install a board fence. No way. Way too costly and way too much maintenance. If I hadn't allowed for this, I would have gone at least 16 feet between posts.

If a post went in crooked, within a few degrees of plumb, I was happy. Most went in straight and plumb.

The post driver also allowed me to do all the work by myself. No need for assistance. The process was;

1. Set all corner posts first. For the corner posts, I did use a phd and concreted them in.
2. String line between posts
3. Mark post locations
4. Fill FEL with posts
5. Drive to each mark and drop off post
6. Start driving posts. I also marked all posts ahead of time, 3' up from the bottom so I knew when to stop driving them in. Corner posts were set 4 feet deep.

I broke the job into manageable chunks and set goals for the morning, afternoon and evening. Otherwise it's easy to get overwhelmed when you look at all the posts that need set. I never laid out more posts than I could set in a day since I didn't want them laying on the ground getting wet and possibly twisting. I kept my stockpile of posts on a pallet, off the ground and under a tarp until I needed them.

[texasjohn]

MikePA's description of using FEL to drive T posts is perfect. That's the way I do it, and precautions I take. All I can add is that I made a T post cover/sheath of proper length such that when post is driven sufficiently the cover is at ground level. Different length t posts require different sheaths.

T_POST_DRIVERS_2_1122.JPG

[riptides]

Man, Cannot help you, I drove in about 5 acres worth by hand. Spaced about 8 to 10 feet apart. Two stand mesh electric.

Quite and abdominal workout. Got six packs out of them. You figure the last sentence out.

-Mike Z.

P.S. It looks pretty straight too. I'll see if I can post a pic, when I get home.

[Jimbrown]

Don't know how to drive them except with a pounder, but 6 ft spacing is really close unless you have some specific reason. I would go at least 12 and probably 15. specially if this a temparary fence.

[TwinWillows]

We have been in the fairly continuious process of upgrading our fencing since buying our farm. Most of the fencing on our place was 4 wire hi tension on T posts (various spacing). On new fencing we've stayed w/the 4 wire on t posts & have been pretty happy w/20 ft spacing on the posts. On long runs I've used the big springs (in addition to the wheel tensioners) avaialble @ TSC & they do seem to help maintain tension @ all temperatures.

I've found it works pretty good to set 6" PT wood corner posts & all the bracing first & then pull 1 wire from post to post to establish a straight line, then using a 100ft tape I'll mark each T post location w/a blast of paint of a surveyors flag, then I'll drive the posts, add insulators, pull wire & connect it.

[Soundguy]

WOW.. 6' post spacing?!?! I bet your into S&M as well.. ( I'd sell the farm and get rid of the animals before I used spacing like that... )

I've had -0- problem doing 20' spacing on hi-ten wire or BW for horses, mules, cows.. etc. Add electric tape and they don't even come within 10' of it.

just my opinion..

Soundguy

Part One.

I need to set several hundred t-posts that will be used to temporarily contain the horses during the construction phase of my latest project. 1800 feet of fence, divided by 6 foot spacing = 300 posts that I do not want to drive by hand. So, here's my question.

How can I best utilize the FEL on my L3130 or the bucket or forks on my skid steer to set the in straight and at a consistent depth. Okay, the depth should be a problem but straight (both plumb and in a straight line) would be a priority.

The fence will utilize electric snap tape - the wider variety.

Part Two (Coming Soon) - Setting 4000 feet of four board fence in a neat and consistent line otherwise known as things I wish I would have known in advance.

[Soundguy]

We have been in the fairly continuious process of upgrading our fencing since buying our farm. Most of the fencing on our place was 4 wire hi tension on T posts (various spacing). On new fencing we've stayed w/the 4 wire on t posts & have been pretty happy w/20 ft spacing on the posts. On long runs I've used the big springs (in addition to the wheel tensioners) avaialble @ TSC & they do seem to help maintain tension @ all temperatures.

I've found it works pretty good to set 6" PT wood corner posts & all the bracing first & then pull 1 wire from post to post to establish a straight line, then using a 100ft tape I'll mark each T post location w/a blast of paint of a surveyors flag, then I'll drive the posts, add insulators, pull wire & connect it.

I do mine similar. i set my corners and brace them, and then pull a sisal top line.. make it tight, then i tie a double not (tight) of sisal on that top string, and then measure out 20' of it. I then walk til the 'measure' line is tight, and blast the paint onto the toplin itself.. a little tug gets the knot to slip onthe top line but hold good tension.. I then walk another 20 till the first knot is int he painted spot on the top line.. i thn mark another... etc. then I drive along ans toss out my tpost and come back in and hamer them in... start pulling wire and .. etc..


Soundguy

[MotorSeven]

6', no way...i just did a 5 ac pasture and used the "exact distancing meathod" of 10 paces. I drove mine by hand, and no i didn't get a 6 pack, but worked mabe a 3 pack off. I then went with 2 strands of the poly rope. I have 2 Clydesdale colts, and if they do get spooked or something i would rather have them go thru then get tripped or caught up in the heavier stuff. 2 strands works fine for the horses, but the darn goats just go under it, so i guess i will be adding a 3rd strand.
Wait until i rains and soaks the ground good, get a snug fitting pair of gloves, some ear plugs and pound away!