I used a little bit of everything for my install partly because I had a good stock of high tensile parts on hand and partly to try hardware that I was not familiar with.
On some runs, I used the insulated strainers on one end and the insulating donuts on the other. Part of my install borders some big trees so I used the wrap around reinforced plastic high tensile insulators with springs and standard strainers to soften the blow should a tree fall on the fence.
In the end, I decided I like using the reinforced insulators the best. Simply strip back about 30 inches of the wire coating, slip on some crimps and make my loop. Much faster than the donuts IMHO.
That then is how I would make a "T" if I am understanding your question? I would run my straight through wire with the 4" insul tubes. For my intersecting run, I would terminate with the insulators. I use three crimps, two for holding the end and one for the electric. Pick one of the rows and for that row, plan on using a split bolt for the electrical connections. The Hotcote plastic covering is easy to strip off of a line. Just cut it to the wire in two places and take a pair of lineman's pliars and pinch it between two of the black lines. Use a split bolt to tap into that line to power the intersecting line.
"My god that stuff is expensive!
Why not use pieces of an old water hose to wrap the corners?"
One supplier has it at $15.50 for 100 feet of Hotcote Tube. I maximized my pasture at the added expense of more braces rather than straight runs. For those minimal angles, I used maybe six inches of tubing. For the 90 degree corners, I used about ten or eleven inches depending on my post diameter but could have cut back to maybe eight or nine if I had wanted to give more thought to the layout. (When you slip the tubing on, everything needs to be in the correct order so it gets tricky at times). Anyway, you can get plenty of corners out of 100 feet of tubing. Why chance old water hose breaking down?
