Chainsaw selection... ideas?

[RadarTech]

hey folks,
I am looking for some advice on a new/used chainsaw...

having been a member here for some time.. and getting some great help.

where else would I go for some tractor/field questions?

ok so here we go...
We recently got nailed with more than 10 inches of rain over 2 days...
I checked the rain gauge and it said 10 inches on the second day, but it also said 8 inches the night before a heavy 3 hour downpour.

The tree that fell, and I really need to take a picture, was about 20-22 inches diameter. It fell across a neighbors drive that I share part of my driveway with. Another neighbor cut it in half to clear the drive while I was out of town. The tree pulled up roots fell off the hill and landed across the driveway. It was cut in the middle and was about 15 feet long from root base to where it was cut.

It was all my little saw could do to cut part of the roots off to get it to roll over. After rolling it over, the little 3400 managed to lift the top up high enough to place some small logs under it to help it move. Then I was able to drag it about 200 feet to a good resting place out of the way.



So that has gotten me to thinking my chainsaw leaves a little to be desired...

I have a poulan pro Lowe's special 18 inch chainsaw..
It is ok for cutting small stuff and handling the softwood. But for a recent locust or whatever that tough !@##R%@ was just ate it for breakfast...

I want something tough enough to handle a locust tree.. (we have at least 4 or 5 that are on some precarious hills....) but cheap enough to work good...

Now here is what I think I need... Please make reccomendations:

1. 18 or 20 in saw-- (maybe an 18 inch saw that can have a 20 inch bar too..)

2. a good saw, not some cheap half plastic saw that I can depend on in the dead of winter or in the middle of a rain storm to clear the drive.

3. something that I can get parts for. Someone told me to get the powerhouse from northerntool.. but really?

4. A case-- I really want something I can protect when it goes in the truck..


what do you think?

thanks,
J

[dave1949]

Everybody has a favorite brand of saw I suspect.

I have a Stihl 19T with a 14" bar and a Husqvarna Rancher455 with 20" bar for heavy work.

The Stihl is intended for limbing and tree maint., but I love the light weight and top handle for most of the cutting I do. It uses a pico chain which has a very thin kerf - not good for cutting more than about 5-6" dia.

The Husqvarna is powerful and one great feature is the compression release button. Works better than the smart-start types I have tried. It is a heavy saw to use for long periods.

I don't know if this is true or not, but I was told you don't get the same Husqvarna (model for model) at Home Depot as you do at a regular dealer. Maybe someone here knows for sure. I got mine from HD and haven't had a problem.

Keep your chain sharp, wear leg chaps, hard hat and ear plugs. When you get tired, put the saw down for the day.

Dave.

[RadarTech]

thanks Dave!


I read somewhere, that you can put a 20in bar on an 18in saw.. is that true?

thanks,
Jim

[dave1949]

Originally Posted by RadarTech

thanks Dave!


I read somewhere, that you can put a 20in bar on an 18in saw.. is that true?

thanks,
Jim

Well, usually you can. The limiting factor is the power of the motor to run the longer chain without bogging down. I wouldn't advise tweaking your fuel mixture to the max to do it either. I did in a saw that way.

I would stick with the shortest bar you can, an 18" bar would usually take down about a 30-32 inch tree making your cuts from both sides.

I have never cut locust, so no help there. I have some big black locust trees but they are too big and too close to the road for me to want to mess with. They do look like gnarly tough trees though.

Dave.

[Egon]

Choose the saw on HP rating, not bar length. If you have the HP you can use short to longer bars as required for your situation. I have a 13 inch and a 20 inch bar for one of my saws. The other has a 18 inch and a 24 inch bar.

You probably have a choice of about four major brands of saws. Of these the only one thats any good is the Brand I own!

Also find out about chains and how to sharpen them.
Remember to buy the safety gear first!
Check on Youtube for instructional videos. Should be a number of them.

The Husky saws with the metal tag on them are considered the good ones. No tag and its a homeowners quality.

[Frosty2]

I'm happy w/my Stihl 290 farm Boss w/a 20" bar. Cuts through anything and starts every time. Just saw an ad in my area for this setup w/a 18" bar for $359 and that included a free case and extra chain. That's a pretty sweet deal. Whatever you choose I suggest you stay away from the bigbox junk out there. Service is worth the extra cost.

[smfcpacfp]

My trusty old Stihl 029 has probably cut 200 cords of wood and cut down many trees has a 16" guide bar. I bought a new Stihl 390 with a 20" guide bar for the bigger stuff. I would likely be just as happy with a Husqvarna or a Jonsered, but I am used to Stihl products.

[Big Bri]

I've got the ECHO CS-520, have had it for about 6 years, i use it only when we have a hurricane, but it starts up very easy even when sitting for a year, never takes more than two or three pulls. Mine has a 20" bar, and chains can be found at any lawn shop, or hardware store.
Good luck

i looked on echo web site and i think the 520 is now the 530 but not for sure.

[turnkey4099]

I run 3 stihls (210/310/361) and a Husky 51 (getting long in the tooth, doesn't go to the field anymore with me).

MS310 is a rugged, reliable saw that will handle a 24" bar but is happier with an 18 or 20. (mine stays with a 20). It is not a professional grade and does have a plastic case. Going price is somewhere in the $400 plus area.

MS361 is a professional grade, metal case and is one of the most admired saws in the industry for that size. Price currently is just over $600.

There is a big price jump from consumer grade to professional grade in any product line. If you insist on metal case, you will pay for it buying a new saw.

I do 10 plus cords year. The 310 does most of the work and has never balked.

In buyin a saw, stick with the Stihl, Husky, Josered, Echo brand and buy from a dealer (if buying new). Nothing worse than buying a highly recommended saw and then finding the local dealer sucks. To buy used (yes I have done that, the Husky 51 came that way), there are lots of choices, pawn shops, craiglist, Ebay - you pays your money and takes your chances.

Harry K

[WayneB]

I happen to like Husky saws and Stihls, actually switched from Stihl to Husky due to the fact the dealer went out of business that I was working with.

I think the best thing you can do is buy it from a dealer that provides parts and service. The box stores will sell you a saw, but know nothing about them and if something goes wrong you are on your own to get it fixed.

I bought a Husky 455 last year from my dealer and the same saw was more expensive at the box store, plus the dealer had it full of gas and oil and had run the saw to make sure it was going to be okay.