Chain saw sharpner

[ToadHill]

The small hand motor will be all you'll need to keep an edge on the saw. I cut about 20 cords per year and for years I used one to keep an edge on the blade. As said before if you touch it up every time you fill it with gas, it won't get so dull you have to pull it off to sharpen it.

What I do is, I have 2 blades for my saw. I have both sharpened by the saw store before I start cutting each year, then each time I add fuel I touch up the blade ( I now use a file since my neighbor who's a retired tree feller showed me how). Around 10 cords into the job I change the blade, clean the blade groove and flip the bar, and when I'm done they go back to the saw store for sharpening.

[moeh1]

I've used an old Belsaw sharpener for the last 25 years. I'd probably be bankrupt if I paid for all the chains I've sharpened. I bought it well used for $80. I haven;t tried one of the HF units, but there really isn;t much to it so I think they would probably do the job, obviously moving up the food chain buy you something. The machines have the advantage over files of consistency of angles and cut amount on each tooth. Either works but my beer drinking time after cutting wood is worth something to me

[beenthere]

I do much the same as ToadHill. But seldom take the chain to have it ground. Only if the chain is rocked.

By hand works the best for me, and this guide pictured has made the task very pleasant and the chain very sharp, and the rakers filed at the right height. The rakers are what sets the depth of cut for each tooth. They are important.

[BigE_]

Originally Posted by woodchuckcanuck

Same here. YouTube - review oregon chainsaw sharpener

Close. Here's the one I bought:
Northern Industrial Bench or Wall-Mount Saw Chain Sharpener | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance + Repair | Northern Tool + Equipment

It's a clone of this:
Oregon Bench-Mount Chain Sharpener Up To 1/2in. Pitch Chain Size, 110 Volt, Model# 511A | Chain Saw Sharpeners, Maintenance + Repair | Northern Tool + Equipment

[BigE_]

Originally Posted by beenthere

By hand works the best for me, and this guide pictured has made the task very pleasant and the chain very sharp, and the rakers filed at the right height. The rakers are what sets the depth of cut for each tooth. They are important.

That's an interesting take on a hand guide. Where'd you pick that up?

[Raw Dodge]

Originally Posted by BigE_

That's an interesting take on a hand guide. Where'd you pick that up?

I too have the Northern tool 89.95 sharpener,it works excellent! Just need some better wheels,from bailey,and its a great tool. I have the husqvarna sharpener (like beenthere) has in the picture,it is my favorite file guide.When i get a new chain,i keep it sharp with the file,and guide,if it gets real bad it goes on the northern tool sharpener. You can get the husky sharpening kit at tractor supply locally.

Husqvarna 372XP Chain File Kit 3/8" .050" Gauge Std - eBay (item 140299776415 end time Dec-03-09 11:24:06 PST)

I find i need to sharpen a lot in the winter cutting frozen locust especially.The

[smfcpacfp]

I got tired of inadequate chain sharpening devices a few years ago and bought an Oregon Bench-Mount Chain Sharpener the Model 511A. It cost over $300 and it is great. It will probably never pay for itself, but I wanted something that would consistently sharpen each cutter on a chain - sharp. When I switched from my old grinder to this rig, it was like going from a manual typewriter to a computer word processor. Once you use a rig like this you would never consider going back to any other method. It makes sharpening pretty much automatic and very fast, once it is setup. The chains stay sharper longer between sharpenings, and the chains last longer because each cutter is sharpened exactly the same each time. A sharp chain cuts faster, is easier on the operator and the saw itself. I pity those people that have to use the old hand files and lesser grinders.

I have two different Stihl chainsaws (1 a 16" and the other a 20" guidebar) that have the same size and type of chain, so they are sharpened with the same parameters.

I probably use 3 gallons of gas mix a year which is probably more than most people. I have about 7,000 trees on my property to maintain (mostly pine) and I also buy hardwood to burn.

[beenthere]

Originally Posted by BigE_

That's an interesting take on a hand guide. Where'd you pick that up?

I buy them at the local Husqvarna dealer (but use it on my Stihl 3/8 chain) and they are called Combi Gauge. $13
Has a number 505 24 35-01.

Haven't looked for them on the net.
Have several friends who have started using this, and they say they like it very well.

[BigE_]

Thanks for the info, beenthere and Raw Dodge!

[woodchuckcanuck]

Originally Posted by smfcpacfp

...I probably use 3 gallons of gas mix a year which is probably more than most people.

I have to say I prefer the machine too after hand filing for a couple of years. I always managed to hand file the right side of the chain harder than the left side causing issues when cutting. I keep 5 chains in rotation when its cutting season. Besides I find it quicker to swap out chains than to touch up with a hand file in the field. That's just me. When two chains have been used, at the end of the day it takes maybe 5 - 10 minutes to bring them back and that includes touching up the rakers.

Of course then there's my 82 yr old father in law, who for the last +40 years has gone (and still goes) into the woods 6 days a week during all four seasons and cuts pulp wood. He probably goes through 4 gallons of chain saw oil a month. He's like a fish out of water when he can't get into the woods.