Installing a wood stove in my garage

[PM1]

This doesn't relate to your stove installation, but rather to your fuel. If you're just starting to collect and split wood, you may be frustrated this winter trying to burn it. To get a good burn in a wood stove, the wood generally needs to be split and stacked to dry before it's used. Some softwoods might burn satisfactorily after 9 months, while oak generally needs about 2 years. Wood can be made to burn with less drying time, but it can be a frustrating experience and it may not generate the heat you expect.

Dead trees or logs lying in the woods tend to retain their moisture. They won't start drying appreciably until they are cut into short lengths, split, and stacked, preferably in the sun and breeze.

If you have a source of drier wood, then of course this won't be an issue.

[Tim Stuart]

I have one installed in my garage, My grandfather used to say "A wood stove and a cup coffee will bring the best out in everyone." It is kind of funny to watch I have noticed that people walk over to the wood stove just to talk even in the middle of summer.

[Mark_in_NH]

Originally Posted by Highbeam

but we have a national building code.

I have to scratch my head on this on as well.
I am quite aware of local building codes, many towns have them, mine included. But I am not aware of any "National Building Code" ever adopted by the USA.
I am willing to stand corrcted if some evidence of it's exhistance can be produced.

[schmism]

Originally Posted by Highbeam

we have a national building code.

ahhhh you got to love it when people dont understand the difference between HAVING code and ADOPTING code.

many states have there own code. many base it on the IBC ICC - International Code Council

but what version? 2009? 2006? 2003?

if your state or county or city hasnt adopted a code set you arnt required to abide by it.

the state of IL has not adopted a building code for the state. It lets the individual counties specify which code they wish to adopt.

Macoupin county IL (along with about 30% of the rest of the counties) have not adopted a building code.

As i dont live in a city (that would adopt which code they want you to use) i am not bound to any code requirements. There are no building permits, there are no building inspectors, there are no plumbing inspectors, there are no electrical inspectors, there are no occupancy permits.

There is however a septic permit but thats overseen by the EPA not any "local" inspectors.


Now whats required by your local gov't and whats required by your insurance are not always the same.

[Highbeam]

Schmism has it. We have the IBC and my local jurisdiction has adopted it. If yours hasn't and you can get them to permit your garage stove then you should be fine. I say should because you would be wise to check with your insurance company as well. I dare say that the large majority of the country is not like Shmism's local jurisdiction, we must get permits.

I would love to live in a place like that.

Just check. You don't want to find out that your install is illegal and uninsured AFTER you've burnt down the neighborhood.

[herd]

Originally Posted by PM1

This doesn't relate to your stove installation, but rather to your fuel. If you're just starting to collect and split wood, you may be frustrated this winter trying to burn it. To get a good burn in a wood stove, the wood generally needs to be split and stacked to dry before it's used. Some softwoods might burn satisfactorily after 9 months, while oak generally needs about 2 years. Wood can be made to burn with less drying time, but it can be a frustrating experience and it may not generate the heat you expect.

Dead trees or logs lying in the woods tend to retain their moisture. They won't start drying appreciably until they are cut into short lengths, split, and stacked, preferably in the sun and breeze.

If you have a source of drier wood, then of course this won't be an issue.

Man, your oak and pine up that way shore is different than these parts. Green oak will burn and burn hot as long as there's a good hot bed of coals to fuel it. It certainly does not take 2 years to season but about 3 months minimum is ideal, same for pine. Back when I used to use all wood for heat, I would cut and split a tree in the day and burn it at night. I just used some really dry wood, or dry KD lumber scraps to get that bed of coals. I know some older folks (I'm 60) that prefer green oak for heat.

Also, as a point of interest, a lot of folks use green hickory for barbecuing.

Of course, the green oak will buildup a little more cresote than dried oak, maybe that's the issue you're talking about.

[General Lee]

Got it installed today................I guess time will tell. I hoping for no leaks on the roof with the new new flue/chimney

[Lineman North Florida]

Originally Posted by herd

Man, your oak and pine up that way shore is different than these parts. Green oak will burn and burn hot as long as there's a good hot bed of coals to fuel it. It certainly does not take 2 years to season but about 3 months minimum is ideal, same for pine. Back when I used to use all wood for heat, I would cut and split a tree in the day and burn it at night. I just used some really dry wood, or dry KD lumber scraps to get that bed of coals. I know some older folks (I'm 60) that prefer green oak for heat.

Also, as a point of interest, a lot of folks use green hickory for barbecuing.

Of course, the green oak will buildup a little more cresote than dried oak, maybe that's the issue you're talking about.

I cut and split my wood in February and start burning it in November, mostly water oak, never heard of anyone burning pine, I would have thought that it would be the worst as far as creosote build-up in your chimney.

[herd]

Pine is the worst as far as creosote buildup, that is, unseasoned pine. Dried pine, specifically kiln dried will burn too fast for any creosote buildup. All I was trying to say is that oak, hickory, other hardwood, doesn't need to season way long to be effective as firewood. Of course, you certainly have the right formula to cut in Feb and burn in Nov. That way, it heats you twice, once when you cut in the winter and then when you burn it later on;

[schmism]

drying time is relitive to how LARGE (or small) you split it.

split that oak into 2" dia chunks and your looking at a relatively quick drying time.

leave those 24" rounds whole and your looking at YEARS to dry.