Concrete Driveway Cost

[JDgreen227]

Not in Texas, but I had a 40x60 slab poured here for $5500. That included all prep work, and finishing. That's 2.30 per sq ft.

Did that include a tamped sand base or wire mesh reinforcement, and what was the thickness of the slab?

If it was 6 inches thick, that would be close to 45 yards and locally here, a yard delivered runs $90-100. Even if it was only 4 inches thick, you got a really good price if they included a base and mesh.

 

[jinman]

Bird, I had a 10' x 25' x 6" slab poured and tied into my existing driveway this spring. I did the excavation and had rebar left over from building my house. It was $5.20 per foot with 12" footings around the perimeter.

Just a thought. . . When I worked at UT Dallas in the mid-80s, they resurfaced all the sidewalks and steps going into the buildings with an epoxy-pea gravel mixture around 1/2" thick. Epoxy adheres strongly to clean concrete, but I'm not sure if it will stick to any oil-soaked spots on driveways. I also don't know if anyone does this anymore or if it wouldn't cost as much as doing fresh concrete. It sure looked good though and provided a nice texture.

 

[JB4310]

I'm no concrete driveway expert, we have very few here in New England.
But I think 4" is not thick enough even for a residential drive, I would think 5 inch minimum.

All the steel reinforcement does is prevent it from coming apart, it does not prevent cracking. Though 4" may be fine for personal light vehicles, at some point a heavy truck is gonna pull into that driveway, That's when the quality of the compacted base is going to be put to the test, regardless of the quality of the slab.

Around here concrete slabs exposed to the weather will spall from the freeze/thaw cycles and look horrible. If you just have cracks I would probably just deal with those.

Any pics available?

JB

 

[EddieWalker]

You really can't compare what a slab for a shop costs to removing an existing driveway pad and installing a new one. Time is money, and so is transporting equipement and materials. Getting rid of that existing slab is going to cost as much as pouring the new one. The actual pour is quick and simple. The fact that he is using rebar instead of wire is a very good sign. The reason it's cracking is that it was probably poured without any rebar in it. Seems like a lot of driveways and sidewalks where done like that.

Depending on the size of the cracks and the movement of the soil, patching might work, or it will be a total waste of time. Putting something over a slab that is cracking, and moving, will just mean that whatever you put on top of it will end up cracking.

Live with it and seal the cracks on a regular basis, or replace it and do it right.

Get at least five quotes, and don't tell the other guys what you have learned from each other. The best way to find out who is lying to you and trying to take advantage is to say as little as possible about what you do and do not know, and let them say too much.

Eddie

 

[Bird]

Lots of good suggestions and I thank all of you. There's not any buckling, no heaves, etc. but sure is showing the cracks.

 

[KennyG]

I wish mine looked that good.

I'd definitely seal the cracks one time and see how much it moves in a year or two.

 

[NorTracNY]

It's a driveway! That looks like it's in pretty good shape. Seal it and save the money for another 5-10 years! I'm sure you can find something else to spend the money on now.

 

[JB4310]

Yeah I would just go after that one large crack in the middle, and just where it's 1/8-1/4+ inch wide. I wouldn't chase all the little ones.

Anything you do will make them look more pronounced than they are now if you are not careful.
I would get a good polyurethane caulk in a color that is darker than the driveway to avoid a contrast (darker is always better than lighter when patching) and cut the tube fairly small, inject it in the crack, fill it but try not to get any on the surface. you could also sprinkle a little dry sand on the caulk to blend the sheen/ texture in as well.

You just want to make that dark shadow disappear, without it looking like a patch.

All just my opinion of course, But I have made a living being a "patch up - fix up" guy. That's what one old timer called me, not very flattering but not inaccurate either

I like to boast sometimes that I CAN make a silk purse out of a sow's ear :laughing:

Good luck!
JB

 

[hizoot]

I heard on the radio,yesterday,that due to the drought,foundation repair calls are stacked up for months. Especially anywhere near the black clay soil that runs from Greenville to Dallas,then south along I35 corridor. I agree with the post above,I would seal the cracks and look at a epoxy type topcoat.

 

[Boeing]

Bird,
I agree entirely with JB. An hour with hydraulic cement on the larger crack, then sealer or epoxy and that will be a driveway to win your wife's heart
And with the money you saved you can buy another toy. :thumbsup: