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  1. #1
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    Default Radon testing

    This post is repeated at CountrybyNet. Got into a discussion with my next door neighbor concerning the selling of his home. The buyers requested that a radon test be done. Are there any secrets to help pass the test. I heard that you don't want to test for radon when rain is forecasted as the atmospheric pressure can affect the results. Also you should caulk around the sump pump pit, sealing any holes, in addition to caulking the cracks where the concrete floor meets the basement walls. Radon can filter into the basement from these cracks. Any other suggestions.

  2. #2
    Gold Member
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    Nov 2000
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    Fremont, New Hampshire
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    BX2200

    Default Re: Radon testing

    Radon is not a problem outdoors because it is quickly diluted to low levels by outdoor air. So setting up a fan that transfers outside air with inside air
    will lower the reading.

    I personally think it's bunk! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]


  3. #3
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    Default Re: Radon testing



    I personally think it's bunk! [img]/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

    Absolutely, you got that right!

  4. #4
    Gold Member
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    Peabody, Ma.
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    KUBOTA BX-22

    Default Re: Radon testing

    The weather is getting nice leave the basement windows open so the gas escapes if there even is any. Boy how did people ever live years ago with all these problems they talk about now. someones making big bucks off of a lot of paranoid people. what will they come up with next? I should start thinking about something and see if i can get in the money making band wagon. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

  5. #5
    Gold Member
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    Oct 2000
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    Apex, NC
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    MF 35 BX 2200 1952 Farmall H

    Default Re: Radon testing

    Stanley, the guidelines for the radon tests I'm familar with are:

    1. Check expected weather for the time period during which you plan to test. If severe weather and/or high winds are predicted, delay starting the test until milder weather is expected.

    2. Close ALL windows and exterior doors 12 hours before the start of the test and keep them closed for the entire test period. Opening and closing of exterior doors must be restricted to normal entry and exit. Do not use any internal-external air exchange systems (e.g., window fans, whole building attic fans, window air conditioning units with the outside air damper open, etc) for 12 hours before, and during, the test period. Heating or central air conditioning systems must be operational and on their normal settings (Auto mode, between 64 and 78 degrees): fireplaces or fireplace inserts can be operated only if they are the principal means of heating the building. No fans may be operating in the test room/area during the entire test period.

    Canisters must be at least 20 to 30 inches above the floor. Canisters should be located away from all windows, doors, air ducts, air returns, stairwells and fireplaces. Fireplace flues must be closed unless the fireplace is needed to heat the building during the test. Place canisters at least one foot away from an interior wall or at least three feet away from an exterior wall.

    Canisters should be left undisturbed for at least 3 and no more than 6 days. At the end of the test, reseal the canisters by firmly pressing the silver foil back over the hole in the lid of the canisters. Canisters must be received at the lab within 8 days after the completion of the test.

    Canisters should be placed in the lowest-level liveable or occupiable space except: no kitchens, bathrooms, closets, laundry rooms, fireplace mantels, hallways, stairwells, storage rooms, utility rooms, attics, entrance foyers, elevators, mechanical rooms, equipment rooms, rooms with exposed dirt, and no crawlspaces.

    The person placing the canisters must state that all the above guidelines have been met, otherwise the test is considered invalid.

    The guidelines you received are good ones. I would add to seal around any projections coming through the exterior walls or through the floor (water pipes, sewer pipes, drain pipes, etc). If the radon test comes back above the EPA guideline of greater than 4.0 pCi/l (picoCuries of radon per liter of air) you will be advised to do these things then take another test. If the 2nd test comes in above the EPA guidelines, more extensive corrections will be necessary.

    These guidelines are for using 2 activated charcoal canisters for the test. There are other ways to test for radon, but I'm not familar with them.

    This link will show you a picture of the USA, along with which areas have more potential for radon problems: http://usinspect.com/Radon/mapgeo.asp
    I tried to attach this but it was too large.

    You can get more information from here: Http://usinspect.com/Radon/radon.asp
    as well as a bunch of other places.

    Bob

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Radon testing

    RLK, thank you for your post. Very informative.

  7. #7
    Platinum Member PhilNH5's Avatar
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    SE NH
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    Kubota B3000HSDCC

    Default Re: Radon testing

    Stanley,
    I was/am the Radiation Safety Officer for my company. Radon is one of the isotopes we learned about in training although we don't worry about it at work. When I sold my place in Rising Sun, MD radon tests were not required. And Rising Sun is close enough to the "Reading (PA) Belt" to be a concern. I am not sure about Fallston.

    Here in NH I did not request a radon test as part of the home inspection. It is to easy to defeat. The test consists of charcoal impregnated pads in a small container. You remove the lid and set these around the house for a set period of days. The charcoal then absorbs the radon and the canisters are sent to a lab for analysis.

    Call me a skeptic but since I was not yet in possession of the house I had no control over the tests. Easiest way to defeat it would to be to put the canisters outside while claiming they were in the basement all along. Or simply leave the basement windows open. Fresh air exchange to dilute any radon. In fact that is one of the remediation strategies.

    A prior poster question why this wasn't a problem in years past. House were a lot less energy effecient and a lot less airtight. So if radon was present it was diluted and/or exchanged with fresh outside air. Now we button up our houses with insulation and weather stripping and even use outside air for combustion in our furnances so no freah air is drawn in.

    Anyway, 4 years ago neither NH nor MD and more importantly the banks did not require radon testing.

    Phil

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Radon testing

    PhilNH5, thank you for your info, very interesting. Stanley

  9. #9
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    yanmar ym1810

    Default Re: Radon testing

    A proper radon test will test several locations throught the home. One or two in the basement and one on the first floor.
    If the home is a modern ultra sealed home, might be nice to test but the solution is a radon explustion kit that consist of basicly a small fan to dump air outside.

    If its not a newer sealed home its not going to matter, overall I think its bunk...

  10. #10
    Super Star Member brin's Avatar
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    Georgia - Mt. Vernon by The Store just 5 miles east and right by the big oak tree then to the creek.

    Default Re: Radon testing

    I know I am revising an old thread but I just saw a bit on the news today about Radon in our homes....WE built our home 7 yrs. ago and I never tested for it ...

    Does anyone think this is a real concern..? this thread is 8 yrs. old ..so by now some of you must have more current thoughts and info...anyone ? Thanks..
    Bob

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