Time to build more Horse Pasture Fence - How do/did/would YOU handle a curved fence?

[MossflowerWoods]

Gals and Gents,

I'm almost ready to start adding pasture area and that means building more fence.

Here is a shot of my current fence http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...se-pasture-fencing-advice-20.html#post2651465

I'm using 7' PT 1/2 round posts and 1.25" x 8" x 16' poplar fence boards. Posts every 8', and I stagger or offset the boards. I used full round posts for gates, and corners, and all the posts are "Outside" the pasture except in the corners.

Here is the real question. the next section is NOT straight. I will follow along the driveway loop and make a long sweeping curve to the treeline.

I want to keep the "look" and my current fence is VERY stable.

How have you done this on your fence, or how would you do it differently the next time.

After a few posts on this thread I will discuss how I've been thinking about doing it.

I want to hear from you guys and get some of that awesome TBN advice...

Thanks in advance,
David

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Board fence will work. If you stretch wire, stretch it on the outside of the curve or it will pull the fence apart. If you want picturesque, switch to split rail. Get a long 1/2" bit, hog a hole and drive rebar at the joints. It will stand until the wood rots out.

 

[Western]

David, the fence looks awesome!
On the radius, I would shorten the line post distance and continue with the scheme your using. If your at say 10' between post, cut it to 5' and use shorter runners, the tighter the turn the closer the line post.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

David, the fence looks awesome!
On the radius, I would shorten the line post distance and continue with the scheme your using. If your at say 10' between post, cut it to 5' and use shorter runners, the tighter the turn the closer the line post.

Dennis,

I'm doing 8' centers now, and I'd REALLY like to keep doing so, I think it is a gradual enough curve I can continue offset 16' boards. I'll bo-jack them and nail em down HARD with my big framing gun.

I was really trying to find out if the boards should be INSIDE the curve or Outside, and I believe I will attempt keeping them inside as the rest of the fence has.

Thanks for the kind words. This is only my 2nd fence. I once built 6' dog eared cedar fence for my 2nd house 20 years ago. This was my first horse fence ever...

David

 

[joshuabardwell]

I was really trying to find out if the boards should be INSIDE the curve or Outside, and I believe I will attempt keeping them inside as the rest of the fence has.

There is a fence similar to that on my property. The boards are all on the same side of the posts, all the way around--the inside.

 

[dieselbeef]

fergit nailing it..long galv deck screws...nails will come loose or fall out over time..serious board fence has always been built with screws...galv or plated

 

[MossflowerWoods]

fergit nailing it..long galv deck screws...nails will come loose or fall out over time..serious board fence has always been built with screws...galv or plated

Not wanting to start a feud here sir. But long ago, an a thread far, far away, I was convinced to move to nails due to shear strength. I'm running 3" x .120" extarior galv ring shank round head nails and a new Rigid framing nailer. I'm nailing each board to each post, 3 times minimum (not in straight line except ends.

I have been using deckscrews to build EVERYTHING for over 20 years, but the arguments were flying here on TBN when I first got started and I became convinced.

The fence I built in Nov-Dec last year is solid as a rock... so far.

I might add some honking big coated outdoor deck screws to the cureve area just for extra hold though...

David

 

[dieselbeef]

well id be surprised but i always use screws..nieghbor used nails..tho i dont know what kind..his boards are always fallin off..mine aint never

interesting tho..got a link id like to read it...

 

[tow653]

Nails have better shear strength,screws better holding strength,use a few of each on each board.

 

[Western]

Having the boards on the inside, may help hide the joint and possibly help with the "illusion" of "round" (I would think.) Of course the tighter the corner, the more frustrated it may appear.

I have used per-drilled (smaller) holes with a dab of wood glue to help hold screws and nails, but don't know if I'd want to go to all the trouble on a job that big.