Curt7
New member
I'm in central Pennsylvania, not far from Penn State University, live on top of a hill and have a 16 % grade, 1200 foot long driveway up to my garage with a 49' x 59' level pad in front of the garage doors. All of this is currently a mishmash of 2RC stone and shale. I am tired of constantly grading it in anticipation of most every rainstorm and then repairing it after most every rainstorm. Over the years I have sculpted the hillside to prevent rain from running over it from the hill, and have put in diverters to direct water off it, approximately every 30 feet so water does not build up speed. These help, but inevitably the diverters get washed out or fill in, and I'm back to regrading, and digging with a shovel. I use a 7 foot wide snowblower on the back of my IH 584 tractor to clear the driveway, but, of course, this scatters the stone all over the place.
I've finally saved my pennies to get it paved and have gotten two estimates. They both came in near the $30,000 mark. One is very detailed, the other pretty bare bones. Basically, they recommend the following in terms of materials/procedure:
1. For base only: (This, more detailed proposal, gave me quotes for just a base driveway and also for one completed with a topcoat). Place
2A as needed to rough and fine grade and compact for proper drainage, place BCBC Base Asphalt Coat and compact to 2". Total compact asphalt will be 2". Seal joint.
Topcoat (goes on top of above "base"): Place 1 1/4" ID2 top asphalt coat and compact to 1". Total compacted asphalt depth will be 3". Seal joint.
The other proposal was:
2. Provide 140 tons 2RC stones for grading. Shape and roll stone base. Place and roll 3" ID-3 top (Heavy duty top coat).
The first guy recommended the 2A stone over 2RC as providing a better base. The second guy (as noted above) plans to use 2RC stone, and, he specifically recommended using ID-3 over top of the stone as being better for farm lanes (in his experience), especially if there is repeated heavy vehicle traffic on the lane (such as coal deliveries, soil deliveries, tractor trailers, etc). He also said it should be a bit less expensive (although, of the two proposals, his was $1K more).
Both recommended I re-dig my diverter drainage ditches that angle out from the side of my existing driveway, but which have gradually filled in with shale, before doing the paving, and filling them in with large stone (so my bush hog doesn't bottom out on them when I mow).
I'd be interested in any input on this project, including insight into which plan seems the better one, or if I should suggest changes to the proposals, such as suggesting using 1 1/4" ID-3 as the topcoat for the first proposal, instead of 1 1/4" ID2. Any thoughts on how well either plan would hold up to weather, water infiltration, freeze/thaw cycles, etc would also be welcome.
I've finally saved my pennies to get it paved and have gotten two estimates. They both came in near the $30,000 mark. One is very detailed, the other pretty bare bones. Basically, they recommend the following in terms of materials/procedure:
1. For base only: (This, more detailed proposal, gave me quotes for just a base driveway and also for one completed with a topcoat). Place
2A as needed to rough and fine grade and compact for proper drainage, place BCBC Base Asphalt Coat and compact to 2". Total compact asphalt will be 2". Seal joint.
Topcoat (goes on top of above "base"): Place 1 1/4" ID2 top asphalt coat and compact to 1". Total compacted asphalt depth will be 3". Seal joint.
The other proposal was:
2. Provide 140 tons 2RC stones for grading. Shape and roll stone base. Place and roll 3" ID-3 top (Heavy duty top coat).
The first guy recommended the 2A stone over 2RC as providing a better base. The second guy (as noted above) plans to use 2RC stone, and, he specifically recommended using ID-3 over top of the stone as being better for farm lanes (in his experience), especially if there is repeated heavy vehicle traffic on the lane (such as coal deliveries, soil deliveries, tractor trailers, etc). He also said it should be a bit less expensive (although, of the two proposals, his was $1K more).
Both recommended I re-dig my diverter drainage ditches that angle out from the side of my existing driveway, but which have gradually filled in with shale, before doing the paving, and filling them in with large stone (so my bush hog doesn't bottom out on them when I mow).
I'd be interested in any input on this project, including insight into which plan seems the better one, or if I should suggest changes to the proposals, such as suggesting using 1 1/4" ID-3 as the topcoat for the first proposal, instead of 1 1/4" ID2. Any thoughts on how well either plan would hold up to weather, water infiltration, freeze/thaw cycles, etc would also be welcome.