Help with SPECIFICS of the plan for 12' x 16' Horse Run-In shed...

Guys,

I need to put pen to paper and actually figure out my bill of materials for this run-in shed. I'm thinking Pole-Barn style...

I need to figure out stuf like how big is the opening? How tall at the back? 8' centers on the side and 6' on the back? 4x6 PT posts? how deep in the dirt? Three walls and wide open front, or some sort of 10' x 10' opening?

I am planning on T-111 sides, lined with cheap 2x6 inside the "kick zone" and a metal roof. What Pitch? How big does the header need to be? I assume I put a header across every set of poles, and then run rafters down across the headers.

I'm certain I am making some faulty assumptions, and forgeting something as well.

Any help and/or advice is greatly appreciated...

Thanks in advance,

David

Can I build an 8' x 12' version now and expand it to 16' x 12' down the road?

I think this might be my least popular thread ever...

I do appreciate the one PM I got, it was VERY helpful I'm ordering the book now...

David

well, I have a couple run in sheds so I'll try and shed some light. WE did 4x4 posts set between 36" and 40" deep., More than enough for our needs. For the roof we ran purlins and then furring strips on 2' centers and screwed the metal right to those. Did some simple 1 by stuff to sheath the place in as well. I think we used 2x6 for the headers. I also believe that the rear was built to 10' high and the front was 12 foot. I also think the openings were 8' wide so that I could get the bucket into the shed to clean them out if need be.

Aloha David

As you might guess from other threads, I'm kinda an expansion guy. Expanding your original 8x12 to 16x12 should be very doable especially if you plan for it. Where I get into challenges is building with the thought of not expanding, then I end up with additional challenges. If you design the initial build with the idea of future expansion, you are ahead of the game. So, I'd think about what's best do that.
As you can see from my project in the Good Morning thread, that is more an add on as opposed to a planned expansion - walls and roof lines totally different from original. While I haven't written about my tractor shed project yet, that will be very different - with the exception of a wooden versus concrete floor, all the lines will continue from the previous expansion.

Seems like someone may have pointed you to a technical resource - great as I have no experience with a pole structure. That said, I will offer some thoughts, from my perspective. Using 4xs @ 4ft on center make it easy to eventually fill in with 2x4s at 16in on center for a real wall. I'm sure there is a reference chart some place re headers. For my 9ft garage door, 4x10 header was called for, my 3 ft people door 4x6. My tractor shed was originally a metal roof on open supports. The vertical supports are 4 inch pipe - 10ft exposed and 5 ft in ground encased in 12in concrete. Seemed a bit overkill to me, but what the county required.

Good luck with your project and have fun.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

We bought a pre-fab 14'x32' run in shed about ten years ago. Closed on three sides and open in the front. It has a lean-to type roof. The bottom runners are 4"x4" all around. The three sides are PT wood 6"x6"x 48" high (kick boards). 4"x4" corners and one 4"4" upright brace in the middle front and back. This just sits on the ground and is not anchored. It is extremely flat and windy country here. Indiana farm land. When hurricane Ike came through we had 84 MPH winds. I thought for sure I would lose this shed. It stayed rock solid even though we lost the roof on our house and both neighbors lost the roofs on their barns.

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Originally Posted by whistlepig

We bought a pre-fab 14'x32' run in shed about ten years ago. Closed on three sides and open in the front. It has a lean-to type roof. The bottom runners are 4"x4" all around. The three sides are PT wood 6"x6"x 48" high (kick boards). 4"x4" corners and one 4"4" upright brace in the middle front and back. This just sits on the ground and is not anchored. It is extremely flat and windy country here. Indiana farm land. When hurricane Ike came through we had 84 MPH winds. I thought for sure I would lose this shed. It stayed rock solid even though we lost the roof on our house and both neighbors lost the roofs on their barns.

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That is a BIG prefab!

My original idea was to build a sled with PT lumber and a 3 sided shed on top. Then I was going to anchor it with some 1/2 round fence posts, cut in half and buried 2.5'...

I am curious about the 4x4 upright brace in the middle front & back. Does that mean you have a post in the middle of the opening? I would think the horses would knock that out with rubbing on it etc....

Thanks,
David

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Originally Posted by sodamo

Aloha David

As you might guess from other threads, I'm kinda an expansion guy. Expanding your original 8x12 to 16x12 should be very doable especially if you plan for it. ... Using 4xs @ 4ft on center make it easy to eventually fill in with 2x4s at 16in on center for a real wall. ...

Good luck with your project and have fun.

David

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Aloha Hawaii Dave! Did I tell you my Wife and I got married on Anini beach on Kuai? Are we honorary Hawaiians now?

So one of the things that got me confused right away with this type of pole shed was there is no real need for 16" studs and what I would assume is typical wall structure. For the feed/tack room I will build real walls, but the pole barns I've been seeing the sides are built differently, hence many of my questions...

I'm trying to provide the needed shelter, and also keep my budget for materials down... Planned expansion is one angle I'm considering...

Once I get started, I very much enjoy projects like this... Once I get started... :rolleyes:...

Be welll,
David

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Originally Posted by MossflowerWoods

Aloha Hawaii Dave! Did I tell you my Wife and I got married on Anini beach on Kuai? Are we honorary Hawaiians now?

So one of the things that got me confused right away with this type of pole shed was there is no real need for 16" studs and what I would assume is typical wall structure. For the feed/tack room I will build real walls, but the pole barns I've been seeing the sides are built differently, hence many of my questions...

I'm trying to provide the needed shelter, and also keep my budget for materials down... Planned expansion is one angle I'm considering...

Once I get started, I very much enjoy projects like this... Once I get started... :rolleyes:...

Be welll,
David

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Honorary Hawaiian sounds good to me.

I sure can understand the budget aspect and getting started. I had saved enough for my project last October - poof - ended up buying a new generator, f repairs to the old one, new parts for my off grid electric. So much for lumber etc :(

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MossflowerWoods

That is a BIG prefab!

My original idea was to build a sled with PT lumber and a 3 sided shed on top. Then I was going to anchor it with some 1/2 round fence posts, cut in half and buried 2.5'...

I am curious about the 4x4 upright brace in the middle front & back. Does that mean you have a post in the middle of the opening? I would think the horses would knock that out with rubbing on it etc....

Thanks,
David

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It does have a post in the middle of the opening. I understand your concern about the possibility of the horses knocking this post down but we have never had this issue in the ten years we have owned it. Sometimes we board horses that don't get along well together. When that happens I put a pipe gate in the middle of the shed fastened to the front post and the rear of the shed. This lets the sissies get away from the bullies during foul weather. The floor is crush and run gravel that has been tamped and covered with rubber stall mats. Makes it much easier to clean.

Eight foot opening for a horse run in shed is not big enough, because sooner or later you are gonna have another horse. They get horsing around in there and you have trouble. Twelve foot opening, 4x6 or 6x6 uprights. Make it stouter to begin with and they can rub on the thing all they want and it will take the abuse. Use NO metal siding. Your T-111 is really popular for many but IF they ever put their foot through it, you will regret it. THICK Plywood would be better. You mentioned two by sixes inside,for nailers? Just make sure there is no place inside for a hoof or leg to get snagged in.