Wood Stove in Trailer

[EarPlug]

We have a retired travel trailer (28') on the ranch that is used for worker housing.
View attachment 330262

This is more of a worry to me. Worker/renters do not take as much care as the owner!

 

[adirondackmtnman]

Mobile is not the problem, it is the construction. They do not burn slow and once started they are gone quick.

Ed is absolutely spot on with the speed of a trailer fire. They're almost always fully involved before the first apparatus arrives on scene. If you're dead-set on a woodstove, check with the local codes, as it may not be allowable, and in the event of a fire, you could be held culpable for any injuries resulting...If it's legal, and you're still dead-set on doing it, make sure it's installed properly, and used properly. There's no more RISK of a fire in a mobile home or travel trailer with a properly installed wood stove, but the ramifications are generally greater when a fire does occur. BE VERY CAREFUL!

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[adirondackmtnman]

If a stove is properly installed with the right flue materials and floor protector, then the only danger compared to other forms of heat is that the operator has to open the door and load the wood and regulate the heat output. If you read up on the cat trains up above the actic circle (wagons on sleighs) they had wood and coal fired stoves in the "caboose" which is where they ate and slept and these were mobile. Granted, the risk of falling through weak spots in the ice may be greater than dying in a fire, but that was the way those guys lived.

Without a doubt, no shortcuts can be taken on the install of the stove or the flue, or else the prolonged exposure to heat will finally result in ignition of material that is within the clearance zone of the hot parts of the stove. If ones attention strays for a few minutes too long, the flue temperature will peg at close to 1500F (visibly glowing). This is one of the biggest risks when simple people do not understand the dangers of an untended stove.

Another danger point, in addition to the stove operator loading, is the buildup of creosote, which can cause a chimney fire, rendering the clearances around the pipe useless. Creosote buildup is encouraged by low fires, green firewood, and poorly insulated piping. You would likely be building a low fire in a structure such as this. A good hot fire would probably be too much heat for a small travel trailer. That of course depends on the climate, but up here in northern NY I can't see too many nights anyone would need a fire that hot

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[nc redneck]

My first house about 30 years ago was a 12 by 56 single wide trailer. My house and business were on 5 acres that I cleared in my " spare time ". I heated both with wood cut from property. I believe if you follow codes exactly as I did it will be safe. Wood stove companies make a lower and back panel 4 by 4 sheet that is fire proof. As I remember lower panel was about 1 1/2 inch thick and back panel was about 1 inch and required free air space from wall. The cost of double wall pipe, box and flange for ceiling and lower panels were 3 times the cost of stove. I lived in it for about 4 years with no problem. As far as non owners living in it ( maintenance )and were they store wood would concern me more.
After 4 or 5 years of heating 2 places with wood only. I have never used wood again and never will unless the present government administration taxes every dime I have.

 

[RockyMtn.Hillbilly]

My suggestion is make sure the furnace the trailer has is working (almost always a trailer that size will have a propane forced air heat) and fixed correctly. If you need more heat, get a "Heater Buddy". It's a small portable catalytic propane heater.

And if you get one and decide to hook it up to a 5 pound or heavier bottle, use a hose and get a gas filter. And learn how to clean the orifice jet. Dude, i have stripped my Heater Buddy down so many times because the oil that comes with the propane (even the small one pound bottles have oil) and the oil will clog the jet.

You're far better off taking the added expense than the incurred expense of dealing with one or more of your workers dying in a fire. Investigations, lawyers, law suits, media, dude it would be a nightmare. And then the mental trauma of losing an employee in that manner. I think others will agree- fixing and maintaining the propane forced air furnace (though not perfect) will be a smidgeon of an expense, comparatively.

 

[dmccarty]

The other thing that concerns me is combustion air. We have a six inch PVC pipe that runs from the outside of the house, under the floor, and then to the back of the stove to supply combustion air. When the fire is burning you can feel the air being pulled into the house.

I would want a CO2 detector in the trailer. Checking local codes is a very good idea as well as your insurance policies. Since this is worker housing, other rules and regulations may apply.

Later,
Dan

 

[MtHam]

Thanks for all the replies. I am now convinced it is a bad idea and will probably install a propane line from a large tank instead.

 

[westcliffe01]

Whether one uses propane is strongly dependent on local pricing. Some parts of Colorado are so ridiculously expensive that I would not even consider propane. In the Grand Junction area I have paid $50 to get a 20lb cylinder refilled, this was at a major propane distributor and I went to them. If you go the diesel fuel route, the fuel itself is pretty compact, easily transported and the price is fairly constant all across the US. I doubt temperatures would get low enough to have to be concerned about diesel gelling.

 

[Stimw]

A crazy idea I had at one time was to put together a wood burning boiler for outside and run the hot water line inside to a car radiator that came with a 12 V fan! Run the fan on a battery charger. You could even put a thermostat to control the fan.
I never got around to trying it.

 

[adirondackmtnman]

A crazy idea I had at one time was to put together a wood burning boiler for outside and run the hot water line inside to a car radiator that came with a 12 V fan! Run the fan on a battery charger. You could even put a thermostat to control the fan.
I never got around to trying it.

That's pretty much the idea with today's outdoor wood boilers. It'd probably use a lot of 12v power to run the blowers and circulator, but it could be done. Now if you took that a step further, and got an old 4 cyl car, rerouted the heater hoses, and let it run outside, you'd have a fully portable heat unit for your trailer!!! Lol, not sure if it would be very efficient, but it would sure make for a great 'Red Green' episode..."Remember...If the women don't find ya handsome, the should at least find ya handy..
'

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