Garandman
Elite Member
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This duude turns 1 next week. He's up to around 70 lbs, though.
New Dog - OMG - More fun than I wanted
- Thread starter crash325
- Start date
Citydude
Elite Member
sseelhoff
Veteran Member
I didn't have to wear a cone when I got neutered.....
You must have used a different vet.
Citydude
Elite Member
You must have used a different vet.
navy doctor, 30 years ago. Had to bite down on a stick.....Ha!boggen
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a generic collar nearly every dog/cat may have. i have found, is a pain, and prefer to use a "harness" front 2 legs go through some holes, and head goes through a hole. and then ya snap a rope around there /chest back. other words it is just like a womens bra. the leash attaches, back behind the shoulders on top, vs at the neck, making it easier to find the clip ring, and hook up. and i have found it is easier to "direct" with the harness when walking / training. it is not "choking" the dog, but puts a complete force on the dog's front end, to say hey, this light tug, means lets go this way. vs yanking there head ever were with a generic collar.
the harness is also nice, without a leash, you simply grab a hold of it on top, and can direct the dog, without trying to grab a hold of there neck skin (placing dog in situation of he doing something bad, but not understanding what to do), or trying to grab a hold of a generic collar and choking them. ya it is a little bit of a hassle to put the harness on, more so on a new pup, but once ya go through the initial couple weeks, of taking it on/off, and going for some walks, they generally pick up fairly quickly of seating, raising paws/legs, and moving there neck, to slip on the harness without you really doing anything but a slight touch of guiding them.
walk training with harness on, if they start pulling, i get them to seat, and hold the seating position, then say, what ever command you like, for me, "ok", and they can begin walking again, if they start to pull, they have to seat again. i normally only give enough leash, so my foot does not kick them in the rear while walking, as they get better, i end up giving some extra leash. first couple weeks you might only be able to make it 1/2 way around the house (more seating than walk), as things go, you more likely be able to make a few trips around the house, and then little bit longer walks. away from the house. they need to learn yanking and pull on leash, will not get them any were. if your yanking on chain, they have no way to tell if that is a good thing or a bad thing.
door bell, not a person door bell, but some bells on a string, and tied to the door, ring them every time he goes out, if it is a glass door, you might want to put bells immediately off to the side on the wall by door. they can get a little wild and paw/hammer those bells hard. the initial week maybe 2. it doesn't matter what time of day it is, even if your sleeping, ya get up and let the dog out. if he rings the bells. once is geared into them, that nocking on bells = outside, like any kid, they will keep doing it for attention and pushing there luck, and after a couple weeks, they should draw back from using bells as much. ((more so as they grow and bladder gets bigger to hold for longer time)) but anyhow after a couple weeks start, getting back into your normal life, and they will get into more of your routine. but hopefully only waking you up once maybe 2 times at night, to be let outside. pending on there bladder and how much ya let them drink before going to bed.
potty training indoors, keep constant eye on them, if they start, go pick them up and direct them outside.
rubbing noises in poo/urine, is not going to do much. catching them in the act, and directing them outside, with bells, = big thumbs up!!
if paper training, all honesty while they cost some, the pet pads ya lay down, ((lay them out in a bigger area overlapping at first there aim is not the greatest at first!)), and ya need to catch them in the act, and then pick them up and/or direct them to the pads.
cheap soft treats, broken up, to one bite and swallow, = good cheap easy to use training treats, if they have to seat there and chew a few times, your giving to much of a treat, and they fill up quickly, small little bite and a swallow, and attention and praise. food training *big thumbs up* more so when puppy. 10 to 15 minutes if that per training, then give it half hour or an hour and do some more training, constant training = they loose interest (short attention spans)
since just snip, ya in a ugly position for baths, wait till things heal up, and then work the dog, (run him hard and get him hot), then use harness to direct and into bathtub ((bath+water= cooling off)), get a shower head, that also has a "hand wand" shower head on a hose. (much easier to train with and overall give baths with), you don't need to use soap, the main goal, is to simply wet the dog down, give them some scratches, and guide them around some with harness, so you can wet them down completely. (no water in face just a little bit up on neck), then towel draw them. he going to want to go off running around like an idiot afterwards, but hang in there and keep toweling with 2 to 3 towels, gets them a bit more use of wanting towel dried, vs running around and shaking water all over the place. if you can give them a few baths say every 3 days for a couple weeks, they will more likely pickup things quickly. and be easy doing, from then on out without a collar or harness on. "" i get myself in trouble in summer times, if i say do you want a bath, both pups start heading towards the bathtub big frown"" who has who trained? dog's dont' need baths all the time, but initially giving those extra baths (just wetting them down) is more of a training doing more than anything.
============
i am no dog trainer, just what has been done over the years for dogs i have had, and, it is a rather large heck month initially, but so much easier long term. ya loose some sleep, they run ya down to your last nerves. but the initial training does pay off.
i have never crated my dogs, so have no experience with that,
============
toys, if you have a garage sale shopper in your family, see about some various stuff toys, or if soemone in family wears boots for work and has long socks, find the ones with holes, and one sock inside another and tie it off. cheap gloves with some quick stitching of were ya hand goes in can make for some quick cheap tear up toys for dogs. more so ones that are teething. ice cubes small chunks can be good as well. a hard rubber thick plastic that a humany kid baby toy might be, toss in freezer and chill it, and then give to dog as a toy, can help with teething, and keep from tearing up everything.
the harness is also nice, without a leash, you simply grab a hold of it on top, and can direct the dog, without trying to grab a hold of there neck skin (placing dog in situation of he doing something bad, but not understanding what to do), or trying to grab a hold of a generic collar and choking them. ya it is a little bit of a hassle to put the harness on, more so on a new pup, but once ya go through the initial couple weeks, of taking it on/off, and going for some walks, they generally pick up fairly quickly of seating, raising paws/legs, and moving there neck, to slip on the harness without you really doing anything but a slight touch of guiding them.
walk training with harness on, if they start pulling, i get them to seat, and hold the seating position, then say, what ever command you like, for me, "ok", and they can begin walking again, if they start to pull, they have to seat again. i normally only give enough leash, so my foot does not kick them in the rear while walking, as they get better, i end up giving some extra leash. first couple weeks you might only be able to make it 1/2 way around the house (more seating than walk), as things go, you more likely be able to make a few trips around the house, and then little bit longer walks. away from the house. they need to learn yanking and pull on leash, will not get them any were. if your yanking on chain, they have no way to tell if that is a good thing or a bad thing.
door bell, not a person door bell, but some bells on a string, and tied to the door, ring them every time he goes out, if it is a glass door, you might want to put bells immediately off to the side on the wall by door. they can get a little wild and paw/hammer those bells hard. the initial week maybe 2. it doesn't matter what time of day it is, even if your sleeping, ya get up and let the dog out. if he rings the bells. once is geared into them, that nocking on bells = outside, like any kid, they will keep doing it for attention and pushing there luck, and after a couple weeks, they should draw back from using bells as much. ((more so as they grow and bladder gets bigger to hold for longer time)) but anyhow after a couple weeks start, getting back into your normal life, and they will get into more of your routine. but hopefully only waking you up once maybe 2 times at night, to be let outside. pending on there bladder and how much ya let them drink before going to bed.
potty training indoors, keep constant eye on them, if they start, go pick them up and direct them outside.
rubbing noises in poo/urine, is not going to do much. catching them in the act, and directing them outside, with bells, = big thumbs up!!
if paper training, all honesty while they cost some, the pet pads ya lay down, ((lay them out in a bigger area overlapping at first there aim is not the greatest at first!)), and ya need to catch them in the act, and then pick them up and/or direct them to the pads.
cheap soft treats, broken up, to one bite and swallow, = good cheap easy to use training treats, if they have to seat there and chew a few times, your giving to much of a treat, and they fill up quickly, small little bite and a swallow, and attention and praise. food training *big thumbs up* more so when puppy. 10 to 15 minutes if that per training, then give it half hour or an hour and do some more training, constant training = they loose interest (short attention spans)
since just snip, ya in a ugly position for baths, wait till things heal up, and then work the dog, (run him hard and get him hot), then use harness to direct and into bathtub ((bath+water= cooling off)), get a shower head, that also has a "hand wand" shower head on a hose. (much easier to train with and overall give baths with), you don't need to use soap, the main goal, is to simply wet the dog down, give them some scratches, and guide them around some with harness, so you can wet them down completely. (no water in face just a little bit up on neck), then towel draw them. he going to want to go off running around like an idiot afterwards, but hang in there and keep toweling with 2 to 3 towels, gets them a bit more use of wanting towel dried, vs running around and shaking water all over the place. if you can give them a few baths say every 3 days for a couple weeks, they will more likely pickup things quickly. and be easy doing, from then on out without a collar or harness on. "" i get myself in trouble in summer times, if i say do you want a bath, both pups start heading towards the bathtub big frown"" who has who trained? dog's dont' need baths all the time, but initially giving those extra baths (just wetting them down) is more of a training doing more than anything.
============
i am no dog trainer, just what has been done over the years for dogs i have had, and, it is a rather large heck month initially, but so much easier long term. ya loose some sleep, they run ya down to your last nerves. but the initial training does pay off.
i have never crated my dogs, so have no experience with that,
============
toys, if you have a garage sale shopper in your family, see about some various stuff toys, or if soemone in family wears boots for work and has long socks, find the ones with holes, and one sock inside another and tie it off. cheap gloves with some quick stitching of were ya hand goes in can make for some quick cheap tear up toys for dogs. more so ones that are teething. ice cubes small chunks can be good as well. a hard rubber thick plastic that a humany kid baby toy might be, toss in freezer and chill it, and then give to dog as a toy, can help with teething, and keep from tearing up everything.
I agree with the harness as my rott/hound could back right out of his collar. Big neck,shoulders, and chest. Wish they had the wireless collars now available. Never had to many delivery drivers leave stuff at the back door. Usually a note in the mailbox. Enjoy him while you have him,time passes to quickly.
bindian
Super Member
Jim,
Just love him and "sit" with him. He'll settle down. It does sound like he under a year old. How old is he?
hugs<<>><<>>Brandi
Just love him and "sit" with him. He'll settle down. It does sound like he under a year old. How old is he?
hugs<<>><<>>Brandi
OP
crash325
Elite Member
Hi lady,
Always glad to hear from you.
The jailers guessed him to be 1 year & 7 months old. But ????
Think if I survive long enough to get his cone off, things will go fine. Now the big nut wants to be a Lap Dog. Gave him a couple of lessons on Sit. Push down on his rear & pull out 1 leg. He will sit as long as Keep a hand on him.
Thanks to all of you for you thoughts & advice. I like the harness idea, will either buy one or make one.
Here are a couple of pictures of the good times in the past.
- 
Pixguy
Super Member
X2 on the harness. The one we have has the ring on the chest so when they get a tug, it turns them and they don't like that. They work well.
Congrats and good luck.
Congrats and good luck.
Happy Gilmore
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Remember, when he does what you want him to do, praise, praise, praise. When you're praising him, if the tone of your voice isn't embarrassing you, you're doing it wrong. You know that goofy tone when you're talking to a newborn baby, that's the one.