$285.00 in pool supplies to unlock chlorine -- Didn't work. No guarantee .

[coffeeman]

Start up of pool and couldn't get a chlorine reading. My regular pool guy doesn't have a computer to test water. He just uses test strips. we shocked with 4 bags of shock 3 days in row and guy said will eventually break lock. Geese, Ill go to the big pool place. They sold me 50 lbs of shock and 8 lbs of stabilizer. Treated with 42 lbs shock and 8 lbs stabilizer. Instructions say restock with 2 lbs and add algicide . Then chlorine tabs . still have lock. Called pool place. They are open but just taking messages because says too busy, Called early in morning and now closed. Noe callback as per message on voice mail. Only bought shock and stabilizer yesterday. Other additions i already had.

Any suggestions?

Cheers.....coffeeman

 

[Streetcar]

How big is your pool?
If ph is off ,chlorine is not available

 

[ustmd]

You are being ripped off by the pool store--in my opinion. I use store bought bleach for chlorination (Walmart has 10% bleach for pools at $2.50/gallon) and to shock the pool--much, much cheaper than the pool store chemicals

First off, you are flying blind. You are only guessing at the chemistry of the pool. You don't need a computer to do the testing---this is a pool store myth. You need to get a good home test kit.

I get mine from (I use the TF-100 ~$70):

TFTestkits.net

While you are waiting for the test kit, I highly, highly recommend you go over to troublefreepools (think like TBN, but just for pools) and start reading about water chemistry and fighting algae:

Pool School - TFP Home Page

Most likely, the level of stabilizer (CYA-cyanuric acid) in your pool is too high. CYA is used to prevent Chlorine from breaking down in sunlight. The problem is, CYA also inhibits chlorine's effectiveness as a sanitizer. You need to balance the level of CYA against the chlorine level. The pool store is trying to get you to hyper chlorinate the pool to break down the CYA (which may or may not work), so the chlorine will start killing the algae. Most of the shock and chlorine they are selling you, however, has CYA in it. So, if you do break down the CYA, you just end up putting right back in with new package of chemicals.

If your CYA is too high, the quickest, easiest and most reliable way to bring it down, is to do a 50% water change.

 

[coffeeman]

You are being ripped off by the pool store--in my opinion. I use store bought bleach for chlorination (Walmart has 10% bleach for pools at $2.50/gallon) and to shock the pool--much, much cheaper than the pool store chemicals

First off, you are flying blind. You are only guessing at the chemistry of the pool. You don't need a computer to do the testing---this is a pool store myth. You need to get a good home test kit.

I get mine from (I use the TF-100 ~$70):

TFTestkits.net[/url

Most likely, the level of stabilizer (CYA-cyanuric acid) in your pool is too high. CYA is used to prevent Chlorine from breaking down in sunlight. The problem is, CYA also inhibits chlorine's effectiveness as a sanitizer. You need to balance the level of CYA against the chlorine level. The pool store is trying to get you to hyper chlorinate the pool to break down the CYA (which may or may not work), so the chlorine will start killing the algae. Most of the shock and chlorine they are selling you, however, has CYA in it. So, if you do break down the CYA, you just end up putting right back in with new package of chemicals.

If your CYA is too high, the quickest, easiest and most reliable way to bring it down, is to do a 50% water change.

All good points. My pool is 20 x 40. Never had this problem in 30 years. I know the pool store is expensive plus. Before the addition of stuff from pool place numbers

Total chlorine 7.8
Free chlorine 1.0
ph 7.4
Alkalinity 145
Calcium 125 add 41lbs didn't need right away
stabilizer 0 add 8 lbs Sun Block Needed after 45 bags shock
Diss Solids 800
Phosphate 0
Cloudy 14 oz clarifier
shock treatment 6.8 add 45 lbs of shock. I added this.

The computer said no stabilizer, 1.0 free chlorine with total chlorine of 7.8 . So stabilizer and shock 45 bags.. My pool has been clear for a week, with a little cloudy. Very little.
Pool place $99 for 25 Lb shock -- Sams $60. - 25 Lb in bags stabilizer I didn't price. If store is trying to break down stabilizer why would they sell me stabilizer? The computer said I had no cya.

After dealing with this for about week and regular guy didn't get any results, I went to "experts".. They are experts at extorting $$. I was going to buy a test kit but had faith in problem being solved. I been through the "gotta have PH up" pitch and all that's needed is baking soda in 5 lb bag. I shop for chlorine etc. and get good pricing, usually. I never realized Clorox type liquid bleach is same as in pool store liquid chlorine.

Thanks for the info.... I'm still stuck though. just a mystery me. Waiting for some ideas. I hate to drain 1/2 water as need to balance water again.

As usual all help welcome.

Cheers.....Coffeeman

 

[ustmd]

Since your total chlorine is 7.8 and your free chlorine is 1.0, you have a combined chlorine of 6.8 (combined chlorine is the by product of free chlorine reacting with something--organics--e.g. algae or nitrates). With all of the free chlorine you have been dumping in that pool, something is eating it up and converting it to combined chlorine.

 

[techman]

First of all, spend $ 50 at Amazon and buy a good Taylor test kit, NO STRIPS.

For chemistry all you need is 1 gallon of Muriatic acid, a large bag of baking soda and stabilizer.

I suspect that you might have too much stabilizer in the pool. Stabilized chlorine, tablets or granules keep adding stabilizer. Over 100 PPM chlorine starts to lose effectiveness. A good test kit will enable you to measure how much stabilizer you have in the water. 8 lbs is a lot for most pools. If you have too much there is no antidote. You must drain water and refill (some water). If you are at 150 PPM, for example you should drain 2/3 and refill to get 50 PPM, which is still high.

After you check that, you need to lower your total alkalinity. 120 is the max recommended as a max. Use muriatic acid to lower it. Don't worry about calcuim, and you should never need a clairifer.

Get the PH and total alkalinity in line first with acid and baking soda. Stabilizer not over 30 PPM. Chlorine should improve. If not shock it again. I recommend bleach (7-10%) or liquid chlorine (15-17%) from a pool supply to shock.

Once things get in order, chlorinate with liquid (easy and cheap) or tablets or granules WITHOUT stabilizer. Stabilizer (cyanuric acid) lasts forever, and is only lost to splash and adding fresh water. By the way I got my stabilizer on woot - 7 lbs for $ 29.

Total alkalinity is important since it acts as a buffer and keeps the PH from moving too much over time. Muriatic (get a 1 gallon at Home Depot) and baking soda will cost about $ 20 for both and last seasons.

I have been doing this for 30+ years. Never a green or cloudy pool and minimal cost/year. Two years ago I switched to a salt chlorinator. You can get an Intex for under $ 150 and it keeps things great for next to no money. This year I spent $ 15 for some more salt and a few bucks worth of stabilizer.

Pool chemistry is simple and cheap. Any pool supply will sell you hundreds of $ on chemicals, and most are never needed. I have a simple pamphlet on it which I will post (when I find it)

Paul

 

[andrec999]

You cant fix it if you dont know the problem. Buy a good test kit ,Taylor has some good ones. Check your Ph very closely and TA ( Total Alkanility) and use the BBB method ( Google it . ) wich is using Bleach ,Borax ,and Baking soda , and get muriatic acid, all this can be found at a hardware store. Good luck.

 

[techman]

Most likely, the level of stabilizer (CYA-cyanuric acid) in your pool is too high. CYA is used to prevent Chlorine from breaking down in sunlight. The problem is, CYA also inhibits chlorine's effectiveness as a sanitizer. You need to balance the level of CYA against the chlorine level. The pool store is trying to get you to hyper chlorinate the pool to break down the CYA (which may or may not work), so the chlorine will start killing the algae. Most of the shock and chlorine they are selling you, however, has CYA in it. So, if you do break down the CYA, you just end up putting right back in with new package of chemicals.

If your CYA is too high, the quickest, easiest and most reliable way to bring it down, is to do a 50% water change.

Just a note. Hyperchlorinating will not reduce the CY level. As you noted, water change is the only way.

 

[rustyshakelford]

You are being ripped off by the pool store--in my opinion. I use store bought bleach for chlorination (Walmart has 10% bleach for pools at $2.50/gallon) and to shock the pool--much, much cheaper than the pool store chemicals

First off, you are flying blind. You are only guessing at the chemistry of the pool. You don't need a computer to do the testing---this is a pool store myth. You need to get a good home test kit.

I get mine from (I use the TF-100 ~$70):

TFTestkits.net

While you are waiting for the test kit, I highly, highly recommend you go over to troublefreepools (think like TBN, but just for pools) and start reading about water chemistry and fighting algae:

Pool School - TFP Home Page

Most likely, the level of stabilizer (CYA-cyanuric acid) in your pool is too high. CYA is used to prevent Chlorine from breaking down in sunlight. The problem is, CYA also inhibits chlorine's effectiveness as a sanitizer. You need to balance the level of CYA against the chlorine level. The pool store is trying to get you to hyper chlorinate the pool to break down the CYA (which may or may not work), so the chlorine will start killing the algae. Most of the shock and chlorine they are selling you, however, has CYA in it. So, if you do break down the CYA, you just end up putting right back in with new package of chemicals.

If your CYA is too high, the quickest, easiest and most reliable way to bring it down, is to do a 50% water change.

This is spot on and as mentioned trouble free pools will help and teach you to take care of your pool yourself. I can't believe there is a pool guy that uses strips. That is horrible and I don't feel he or the pool store has your best interests in heart. They are just lining their pockets and selling you things that you don't need

Brett

 

[coffeeman]

First of all, spend $ 50 at Amazon and buy a good Taylor test kit, NO STRIPS.

For chemistry all you need is 1 gallon of Muriatic acid, a large bag of baking soda and stabilizer.

I suspect that you might have too much stabilizer in the pool. Stabilized chlorine, tablets or granules keep adding stabilizer. Over 100 PPM chlorine starts to lose effectiveness. A good test kit will enable you to measure how much stabilizer you have in the water. 8 lbs is a lot for most pools. If you have too much there is no antidote. You must drain water and refill (some water). If you are at 150 PPM, for example you should drain 2/3 and refill to get 50 PPM, which is still high.

After you check that, you need to lower your total alkalinity. 120 is the max recommended as a max. Use muriatic acid to lower it. Don't worry about calcuim, and you should never need a clairifer.

Get the PH and total alkalinity in line first with acid and baking soda. Stabilizer not over 30 PPM. Chlorine should improve. If not shock it again. I recommend bleach (7-10%) or liquid chlorine (15-17%) from a pool supply to shock.

Once things get in order, chlorinate with liquid (easy and cheap) or tablets or granules WITHOUT stabilizer. Stabilizer (cyanuric acid) lasts forever, and is only lost to splash and adding fresh water. By the way I got my stabilizer on woot - 7 lbs for $ 29.

Total alkalinity is important since it acts as a buffer and keeps the PH from moving too much over time. Muriatic (get a 1 gallon at Home Depot) and baking soda will cost about $ 20 for both and last seasons.

I have been doing this for 30+ years. Never a green or cloudy pool and minimal cost/year. Two years ago I switched to a salt chlorinator. You can get an Intex for under $ 150 and it keeps things great for next to no money. This year I spent $ 15 for some more salt and a few bucks worth of stabilizer.

Pool chemistry is simple and cheap. Any pool supply will sell you hundreds of $ on chemicals, and most are never needed. I have a simple pamphlet on it which I will post (when I find it)

Paul

hi Paul

Been doing pool for 30 yrs too. First year I ever had trouble. Some years took few days to be ready, many yrs went smooth as silk.

Even though computer indicated no stabilizer, i questioned that. I mentioned I ran through skimmer about 12 or more stabilized pucks in 3 days. The pool girl said stabilizer could be burned out. Seems maybe they are wrong. I wonder if computer analyzes water or does a person use manual test kit and input values into computer to print the paper I get? If thats the case , human error is a wild card. If it wasn't late Saturday at 5 pm, I would have got second opinion. Grand kids were anxious to swim. Also, I figured I might get a big turn for worse and have a bigger problem than I had. So, I bought the Kool Aid. It doesn't taste good.

All good info from all the folks on TBN. Of course I will use that pool help site mentioned here. I have it bookmarked.

Thanks everybody.....Coffeeman