Fired Road contractor. Build it myself?

   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #21  
We re-built 1200' of our road when we lived in New England and borrowed the town pull-type "road grader". It was really old and needed grease but it helped with the basic crowning. It took some HP to pull but did the basics in short order. Maybe your town, or one nearby has a grader you can borrow?
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #22  
We re-built 1200' of our road when we lived in New England and borrowed the town pull-type "road grader". It was really old and needed grease but it helped with the basic crowning. It took some HP to pull but did the basics in short order. Maybe your town, or one nearby has a grader you can borrow?

If not, if someone can or still runs a motor grader in your area, offer him a few dollars to do it. I gave the motor grader operator for our town $100 to grade a road for me when my dozer was down. Took him about 2 hours, money well spent.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #23  
A motor grader for the OP's road project would be heaven. Make that a Cat # 16 with a competent operator at the controls and it would be beyond heaven!

As to back blade width it should extend past the tire on one side enough that you can cut into the side hill or pull out dirt for a ditch.

From the looks of your soil a drum vibratory packer may do both the dirt and stone compaction. Your tractor probably can't pull a big enough smooth drum roller.

Gage wheels on the back blade allow you to lose a little dirt each time you are rolling a windrow across the road. This really helps getting a nice smooth continuous road surface.
 
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   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #24  
I think I would invest some money in hiring a motor grader to put in uphill side ditches and grade the road with proper crown. A good operator with a large motor grader could do 1/4 mile of road in a day easily. Then with the road bed properly shaped, the dump truck driver can spread the gravely pretty well by just chaining the tail gate to only open a small amount and then driving forward as the bed is raised. It may require a little bit of levelling afterwards but not much.
I would go with 3" stones for a base then after compacting it, top it with 3/4 crusher run rather than solid crusher run. You need the large stone base to keep it from sinking into the ground.
Also IF and that is a big IF, you can determine culvert location prior to putting in the gravel, it will be much better. Why disturb your road base if you don't need to by digging a wide hole across it for a culvert.

As for equipment, a land plane is going to be far improved over a straight blade for shaping and maintaining your road. If you use a hired motor grader to put in your ditches and crown the road bed, you wont even need a straight blade for anything. I don't know if you have ever used a blade, but they are very easy to get dips and dives in the road surface and the more you try to remove the high and low spots the worse they get due to the tractor following the contours and the blade just cutting more and more each time the tractors wheels ride over the hump or dip.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #25  
Are you in a big hurry? It just depends money vs your time...it's already roughed in and with your equipment I say go for it. Do one section and see how it goes with you prepping and having material delivered.

Btw, looks like beautiful setting!

+1. I built a shorter driveway two years ago on my own through densely wooded, very rocky, very dense clay. Most of my time was spent clearing the 14' - 16' driveway of trees and digging out rocks weighing hundreds of pounds.

If you have the time (and heavy box blade and good FEL bucket) it looks like the hard part is done. I would investigate on the Internet about road building for your usage and also get the advice of a good, local, gravel hauling company.

Added: A good landscape rake is very handy. A farmer friend has a 3PH land grader he uses to maintain his 1/2 mile road.
 
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   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #26  
Wait... You fired him because he trying to do this legally with permits and he couldn't get it on time? And he offered to take a hit in profit? I'm sorry.. There something wrong with this pic
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #27  
Wait... You fired him because he trying to do this legally with permits and he couldn't get it on time? And he offered to take a hit in profit? I'm sorry.. There something wrong with this pic

Might want to go back a re-read the post. :drink:
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself?
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Wait... You fired him because he trying to do this legally with permits and he couldn't get it on time? And he offered to take a hit in profit? I'm sorry.. There something wrong with this pic
I fired him because there was no communication from him about any of the delays. He simply didn't show up and didn't bother to tell me why. I had to reach out to him to find out why. The first time I had to call him should have been a clue that he needed to communicate. After going thru that a few times I was done. If I'm paying you I need to know what is going on.
 
   / Fired Road contractor. Build it myself? #29  
Start here for your soil survey maps:
Web Soil Survey - Home
There's a ton of info on the soils for your property.
 
 
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