Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own?

   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own? #11  
About 6 months ago I replaced a 30+ year old water softener in our house. I went with a Morton unit from Menards. Its just me and the wife at home now (until the kids move back in, of course! :laughing: ), so we went with a 27,000 grain unit. It was on sale and we had Menard's 11% rebates from past purchases so it ended up being about $300.

Very easy to do with a little planning.

Turn off your water in your house and open the highest and lowest faucets in your house. Hopefully there's one lower than the top of your softener. If not, put a garden hose on the lowest faucet before you open it, run the end to a bucket or floor drain lower than the softener, then open it and drain out your pipes till the hose runs no more. May take several buckets if you don't have a floor drain, but this will relieve any pressure on your pipes and also may save you some water on the floor when you cut the pipes to the old softener.

If you have bypass/shutoffs for your old softener, close then now and bypass.

Cut the two pipes to the softener with a hack saw or tube cutter, but be sure to leave a several inch stub on the house side pipes to slip the new flex pipes on to.

Get two of these in the correct size for you pipes.

U368FLEX24LF - SharkBite U368FLEX24LF - 1/2" Sharkbite x 3/4" FIP Flexible Water Heater Connector - 24" (Lead Free)

Install the softener per instructions.

Be sure to have electric outlet nearby for controls and be sure to plan for a drain line/overflow line.

Took me about an hour.

You can do it.

Once its installed, be sure to open the main water shutoff and let the air out of your pipes through some open faucets. Then check for leaks.

We don't have a floor drain, so for an overflow, I ran the overflow tube of the new softener to the old salt tank of the old softener and put a water alarm in that to warn me if it ever overflows.

Again, its an easy project. :)
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own? #12  
Several people mention draining the pipes to help prevent a mess. Good idea. BUT be sure to turn your hot water tank to pilot on gas units and off on electric. Just in case the water gets to low and the elements or burner come on. Element out of the water will ruin fast. Gas heater low on water boils fast.
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Here are the requested pics. Fittings look easy. I know how to solder anyway, so no big deal and all is accessible.

That's my water filter--blue-- on the right. The pump coming down into the softener tank is from the garage and allows me to dump the salt from there and it falls into the tank. It's just the way people do things around here.

If I do it myself, and I almost certainly will, I want to do it when things warm up in the spring.


IMG_5885.JPG IMG_5887.JPG IMG_5888.JPG IMG_5889.JPG



IMG_5890.JPG IMG_5891.JPG
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own? #14  
This will be straight forward! Shut water off, cut the two lines the connect to the softenerclose to the fittings on the softener side and push on the Sharkbite 3/4" C/PEX male adapter (C=copper). From the male adapter you will need water flexes. The flexes will have to be 3/4" x 1" OR 3/4" depending on the softener you choose!
I don't see a water shutoff in the picks. If you don't have one you will need to add one. Most of the new softeners have a bypass built in so you don't need to worry about that.

I know PEX makes water flexes. They would work if you got a softener that has 3/4" fittings. Not my personal choice but an option.
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Rather than Sharkbite or PEX, that are new to me, I plan on plain old pipe unless there's an issue. When I get closer to this, I'll revive this thread and you guys can help me over any rough spots.
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own? #16  
I see two possible problems with the swap out.
One, your softener looks like a twin tank unit which are generally used with extremely hard water. Check your hardness first. If it's over 30 grains hard, you will need another two tank unit.
Secondly, be aware that not all softener heads have the in and out on the same sides of the head. You certainly don't want to hook it up backwards and pump mineral through your plumbing system.
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own? #17  
You may want to check with a softener supply house and see if you can just buy the replacement media instead of buying new tanks. We just got done replacing the media for our calcite tank (a full rebed, not just adding calcite) using the same tank. Did not take long at all and was pretty simple. The media is pretty much universal for most tanks. The head screws off, dump out the media, wash tank, cover the center pipe, dump in media, and replace the head. Of course Culligan seems to be proprietary, but yours looks "normal."
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own?
  • Thread Starter
#18  
speedbump...Water hardness test done shows 24 gr. harness and 1 1/2 PPM iron.
I have all the original installation paperwork and instructions.
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own? #19  
The GE will work fine at 24gns. I believe it's the same as the Morton unit listed above.

This is a straight forward project- you will do great!
 
   / Anyone here replaced their water softener on their own? #20  
You can do it! You can do it! You can do it!
 
 
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