How do I set the 16' fence boards for pasture fence, level or with the ground? *Pics*

[ShowroomShine]

250' of fence, fairly level ground. 16' boards with 8' on center posts.

When I'm setting the boards, do I set them level with a point on the top of the fence, or do I set them a set distance up from the ground? What I'm worried about is in the picture my first 2 16' runs are set the same distance up from the ground, the fence will end up looking wavy. Do I just pick a point maybe halfway down and let the ground undulate underneath?

 

[Rustyiron]

I would measure off the ground every 5th post or so and set them to a string line. (40' adjustments). That and just using your eye. Your fence, your rules.:thumbsup:

 

[gsganzer]

You do it the same way you'd do a welded pipe fence. Set all your posts first. Then run a string for the top rail. Step back and adjust your string to give you an aesthetically pleasing look to your top rail. You want it to follow the general contours of the land, but not every dip and bump or it looks too erratic. Once you have the string set, put in your top rail to match the string. Then use a spacer to set each lower rail the set spacing down from the top rail (repeat with each lower rail spacing).

To elaborate on your concerns. The problem is when someone uses a storyboard to set the rail heights at each post. The result is an erratic and amateurish looking fence.

 

[Redlands Okie]

You do it the same way you'd do a welded pipe fence. Set all your posts first. Then run a string for the top rail. Step back and adjust your string to give you an aesthetically pleasing look to your top rail. You want it to follow the general contours of the land, but not every dip and bump or it looks too erratic. Once you have the string set, put in your top rail to match the string. Then use a spacer to set each lower rail the set spacing down from the top rail (repeat with each lower rail spacing).

To elaborate on your concerns. The problem is when someone uses a storyboard to set the rail heights at each post. The result is an erratic and amateurish looking fence.

Thumps up,

Once you get the first rail up you can then go back and adjust them once again as needed. Just one screw in the top rail at each end to get them up where you can look works nice, then attach them how you prefer. Then do the lower ones.

 

[gwstang]

I notice that around here, people are starting to use those newer plastic , I guess it is, boards for the fence like you're building. I wonder if they hold up as good as the real wood will?

 

[TomSeller]

I'd go straight and adjust at every half dozen or so posts.

 

[CADplans]

It has been 15 years or so since we put it up,,,
but, I think we followed the terrain the whole way,,,, EVERY post was measured.

My wife is happy with the results,,, that is all that matters!

:laughing:

I am an engineer,,not a carpenter,, I would have probably put the posts in 90 degrees to the soil,,
Luckily, I had someone that knew more than me to help,,,

When I did the garden (much earlier than the above fence),,
I resolved the issue with a bulldozer.

That resolved the fence height issue,,,
The fence is for deer,, we tried to keep the top of the fence "level", and similar height off the ground.

The garden does have two lower corners, to facilitate drainage, eliminate standing water.
There has only EVER been one deer in the garden.
One time someone left the gate open, the deer got in, but, could not find its way out.
We had to go out and play cowboy, and "herd" the deer back to the gate.
That deer nearly killed itself,,, repeatedly running into the woven wire.

 

[MacLawn]

A nearby place has a fence that follows land contours - make me dizzy just seeing it! Do like old Rusty said. Basically, make the top even.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

I am laying out a similar fence. Decorative, not for livestock. I would like opinions as to the virtues of concrete or just tamping soil for the posts.

 

[Redlands Okie]

If tamping soil idea is used try to use a well draining soil or small gravel to help prevent post rot.

Most concrete i have seen around post it seems the post is rotted of at ground level. Where there is plenty of ingredients to create rot. Concrete raising up above the surrounding soil helps stop this. Ant hill the concrete, cone shaped so to speak, or use cylinders to help hold the concrete in form until it cures. The concrete being a bit higher than the soil will help the post last longer.