Help me dream up my 3 point splitter

[motownbrowne]

I'm beginning the process of purchasing a wood splitter. I burn about 15-20 full cords of wood every year, and I'm hoping that number will go up. Most of my wood is burned in my maple syrup evaporator, so the more wood I burn the better, since it means I'm making syrup. The firebox on my cooker is 4'x4' and about 20" tall. I like burning 32"-36" long firewood split to under 4".

I've settled on a 3 point mounted splitter with a 36" ram powered by a PTO pump. Basically a timberwolf tw3hd, but I'm planning on having mine built locally. I have decided to go with a three point model for a few reasons. I like the portability and the adjustable height, the price is lower, and I hate standing next to air-cooled 4-stroke motors.

The guy who is gonna build mine, if I continue down this road, makes some very nice splitters. Here's his site Wolfe Ridge Mfg – Eau Claire, WI USA – 715.559.4376 – Professional Grade Wood Splitters

He doesn't normally build 3 point models, but didn't seem the least bit daunted by the idea. Since it's not a normal item for him, I get to play around with the design if I want. That's where I'm asking for input. One thing that's gonna be a challenge with this rig is length. Three 36" ram means that it's gonna be 100" long before you add an out feed table. The builder mentioned putting some legs under the splitter, so that when it's in use you can take the weight off the hitch. Any thoughts? Also, he mentioned going sideways instead of lengthwise off the back. I think I want it coming straight back so someone can be on either side, but I'm open to ideas.

Also, regarding pumps, it looks like Prince has a 20gpm pump for $5-600. Surplus center sells a "Dynamic" pump for under $300 that seems to have the same specs. Anyone have any experience with their stuff?

Okay, hopefully that'll get the ball rolling. I appreciate the input gentlemen.

 

[bcp]

I like the leg at the far end, but make it adjustable.

Any benefit to making the main beam pivot at the hitch? Maybe sometimes being able to work at an angle to the tractor would be good. Splitter could gradually swing in a arc to outfeed to different places.

Log lifter for the heavy pieces.

Automatic stacker

Bruce

 

[Sawyer Rob]

OR, you could come buy this 3 point splitter from me for $700.00, I don't think I live that far away from you.

Add a valve, tank and pump and have one he!! of a splitter.

It has a 5" cyl. and a long stroke, I've always run it off my tractors remotes. It's VERY strong and a cheap starting point to make it what ever you want, or just use it at is.

PM me if you are interested...

SR

 

[boggen]

a splitter on top, and a splitter on bottom. or a way to pull a pin, and turn it up, sideways, upside down. so you can backup to those larger pieces and drop splitter down, and split them. before trying to man handling them and placing them up on top.

3pt hitch top link turnbuckle... ya... but a hydrualic link for top link. or a chain. so you can adjust angle of splitter a bit more.

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stick splitter a foot or more further out from rear of tractor (past rear wheels), so when a piece does fall. you might have an escape route, vs leg/foot getting damaged.

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boot jack / trailer jack. with a wheel on it possibly. so you can crank a leveler to adjust the support leg per say.

not real sure about wheel. it only comes to mind, due to picking up some cheap boat jacks, and attaching to some 10 foot plus fence gates. you might be better off with a simple crank jack, that also gives you a "pin" that pulls and turns the jack 90 degrees. so you can safely set splitter down some place when not in use.

the jack most likely help stabilize the rear of splitter, when dropping and prying heavier logs around. vs having the entire splitter bouncing around on you.

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vertical to horizontal splitter. a hing in middle, and another pin towards tractor. with possible option to remove pin to take off rear table.

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spot to toss on a cheaper crane/hoist that attaches in bed of pickup truck to onto a trailer. just something you can use to winch / crank per say to grab a log stuck in mud / heavier to lift personally. (if you do not have a log lift)

 

[boggen]

pictures from 500 Internal Server Error a few posts down

 

[Leejohn]

This is mine. I drive a cross pump with a chain and jackshaft then to the PTO. Pump stays with splitter and the tank I use the H beam.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I really can't comment on Wolf Ridge, I've never seen anything they have built...

As for my TW3HD, I'm pretty sure I could buy one today for 3500 including the table grate... (NOT the 36" model)

As to My TW, I run everything through the 4-way, it's one tough splitter and one tough 4-way... well worth what I paid for it.

Normally I do put a block of wood under the splitter when I'm splitting, not because the splitter moves around, but just to take the weight off the 3 point. My little Deutz was built back in the 60's, no need to put extra strain on the 3 point.

I also have a small AGCO I sometimes put the splitter on, it's a much newer tractor so I don't worry too much about the 3 point on it. It's a 45 pto hp tractor and I just like the way it purrs so nicely with the splitter on it. VERY fuel efficient and a joy to run...

I have some OLD tractors too, so old they don't have 3 point hitches. One of these days I'm going to "rig" up a way to use them with my TW too, just to get some run time on them.

For how "I" use my splitter, there's not much I'd change on it... I see folks giving LOT'S of suggestions, but I bet they don't own a 3 point splitter and after having mine, I wouldn't want those changes on mine. Maybe "they" handle their firewood differently than I do???

Folks do things differently for sure... Like, I'm just amazed that guys will keep dumping/cutting their firewood on the ground, then have to "pick it up" to split it! WHEN, they could cut over/on a wagon/trailer and split right off it! It's just so much easier! I guess "changes" will depend on what and how you plan to use your splitter.

My TW is going to get a real workout soon, I have two BIG tree's all limbed and ready to take the firewood logs out of them. One is a maple, the other is an oak... Here's the oak,

There will be some big rounds out of them...

Anyway, I'd be happy to try to answer any specific questions anyone has...

SR

 

[motownbrowne]

Hey Rob, thanks for your input. As I mentioned in my PM, seeing your splitter really inspired me to pursue a three point splitter, and to go a step or two above an entry level model. Like I said above, I burn about 15-20 cords/year, but I could see doing 30 for myself and splitting another 10 or more for sale every year. If most of that wood could get cut to 32-36" and put through a 4-way wedge, I'd save a lot of time!!

Okay, questions I have specifically:

What would be the minimum HP you'd want to run yours on? I have a tractor with 24 HP at the PTO, which would be the one I'd prefer to use (keep the one with the FEL freed up). Think it'll be reasonable? Also, does the splitter make the front of the tractor real light? I'm a little concerned about the leverage the splitter will have in the tractor. The beam is right at 100", not including the table.

I like the way the table on the timberwolf looks. Any chance you could snap a couple pictures for me that focus on the table?

How do you store yours? Does it just sit on the ground? I think I might have the guy add legs. Maybe two short ones on the front, near the tractor, and an adjustable one at the far end. Maybe even put a wheel on that one?

Does the timberwolf's valve have a detent in both the splitting and the return direction?

Alright, that's what I've got for now. I appreciate your input, and help with this Rob.

 

[motownbrowne]

I like the leg at the far end, but make it adjustable.

Any benefit to making the main beam pivot at the hitch? Maybe sometimes being able to work at an angle to the tractor would be good. Splitter could gradually swing in a arc to outfeed to different places.

Log lifter for the heavy pieces.

Automatic stacker

Bruce

Thanks Bruce,

Good call on the adjustable leg, and the auto-stacker! This thing is gonna be pretty hefty, so I'm not sure a hinge in the three point attachment is gonna be cheap. Because of the length of the splitter, you could get a pretty good range just with the three point stabilizers loosened up. I'll have to give that a try.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Hey Rob, thanks for your input. As I mentioned in my PM, seeing your splitter really inspired me to pursue a three point splitter, and to go a step or two above an entry level model. Like I said above, I burn about 15-20 cords/year, but I could see doing 30 for myself and splitting another 10 or more for sale every year. If most of that wood could get cut to 32-36" and put through a 4-way wedge, I'd save a lot of time!!

Okay, questions I have specifically:

1. What would be the minimum HP you'd want to run yours on? I have a tractor with 24 HP at the PTO, which would be the one I'd prefer to use (keep the one with the FEL freed up). Think it'll be reasonable? Also, does the splitter make the front of the tractor real light? I'm a little concerned about the leverage the splitter will have in the tractor. The beam is right at 100", not including the table.

2. I like the way the table on the timberwolf looks. Any chance you could snap a couple pictures for me that focus on the table?

3. How do you store yours? Does it just sit on the ground? I think I might have the guy add legs. Maybe two short ones on the front, near the tractor, and an adjustable one at the far end. Maybe even put a wheel on that one?

4. Does the timberwolf's valve have a detent in both the splitting and the return direction?

Alright, that's what I've got for now. I appreciate your input, and help with this Rob.

1. Keep in mind the TW has a one speed pump, so at MAX pressure it's going to take more HP to run it. I think TW recommends 30 and that's what my little Deutz has at the PTO. The up side is, it splits faster because it doesn't "kick/shift down" when you are splitting tough wood. BTW, I've NEVER had a piece of wood come flying off my TW... Not even one, like other splitters I've run. I believe it's because of the way the wedge/4-way is designed.

Yes, on a smaller/lighter tractor if may make the front end light. You may have to build a bolt on box on the front and store all of your tow chains or wheel chains in it. It's nice to have a bumper up there anyway. My tractors don't need any front end weight when the splitter is on them.

2.

3. I put a block of wood under it to take the weight off the 3 point. I put the block in the middle of the beam, NOT on the back or front edge. I'm not sure about legs, they may get in the way when you want the beam on the ground, it's just so easy to put down a couple wood blocks to hold it up when you are splitting or storing it.

4. Long time ago, TW put valves on that had detents for both directions, that stopped years ago. I thought about replacing mine with one, BUT after running my splitter for a while, I decided I didn't want it. It's a safety thing, for me. I'm not the only one that runs my TW and I'm NOT going to take the chance of someone crushing a hand or finger for so little gain.

I split off a trailer or wagon, I don't have to walk or even bend over to get rounds to split, so there's VERY little advantage to have a detent in both direction for me...

I hope this answers your questions...

SR