Current on a 12 gauge wire

   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #1  

3Ts

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We are building a home in the country and there are no building inspections or code requirements in this area. I've told the builder that we want to at least meet all the code requirements even though there will not be any official inspections. So, here's the question: There are (2) romex 12/3 wire with ground running thru conduit (with water pipes) to the kitchen island. Supposedly there are (2) single pole 20 amp breakers tied into these wires somehow. I suspect the black wire is tied to one breaker and the red is tied to the other breaker. The primary current loads are:
- Dishwasher - calls for it's own 15 amp breaker
- 2 gallon hot water heater under the sink - probably a 1500 watt heating element (~12 amps)
- small appliance outlets - about 1500 watts for an electric skillet or waffle iron.
1st, I don't see how (2) 20 amp circuits can carry that load. I talked to the electrician and he says "not to worry, it's fine". (I've seen 12 gauge wire on a 30 amp breaker around here and I know that is NOT "fine".) It seems to me that the electrician is using a single 12 gauge neutral to carry the current from (2) 20 amp hot wires and the electrician tells me that 12 gauge can do that. :shocked: Nor do I understand how he's going to provide for the 3 circuits with 2 circuit breakers. I suppose that if we sequence the usage "properly" everything will work.

Am I behind the times? or am I missing something? I'm getting ready to tell the builder to stop work until this is fixed, but don't want to do that unless I'm right. Any thoughts?
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #2  
Each circuit needs its own neutral.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #3  
This is "Edison" circuit wiring with a shared neutral. A lot of people frown on this today but it is legal in most code jurisdictions. It is usually required that the two circuits have a "bonded" breaker so you can't trip only one circuit. This avoids have a neutral current on a tripped circuit. You don't have to worry about the load on neutral because the circuits are out of phase. If you have exactly equal loads on both circuits, they will balance and there will be no neutral current.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #4  
Actually come across this all the time with older construction.... have not checked recently but the last time I did it was OK with the city as long as the circuit breakers were tied together.

You mentioned 30amp... by convention here 20 is the limit amperage wise.

It would make sense to add more circuits... what if a toaster oven or skillet gets plugged in in addition to the dishwasher, water heater, disposal???, etc...
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #5  
As mentioned it's a shared neutral circuit.

If it's wired properly, each hot is on a different leg of your electrical panel. If the breakers are side by side, they are on different legs of the panel.

As mentioned, both handles should be tied together. This was often not done with these. This prevents someone who is working on the wiring, from being shocked by the neutral wire, when working on one of the circuits.

With ac current, the neutral wire is only hot half the time, as the current cycles. If the second hot is on the other leg of the panel, the neutral wire can supply power the half of the time it's not being used by the other leg.

Done properly, this works fine, and is fairly common.

However, since you can't share the neutral on GFI, or arc-fault circuits, use of a shred neutral circuit is restricted today.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #6  
This is new to me. Apparently it is acceptable, but certainly not preferable, 'least not for me. And if the dishwasher calls for it's own 15 amp breaker, it should definitely not be on a 20 amp circuit.

Appears the electrician is going the cheapest route.

As mentioned, both handles should be tied together. This was often not done with these. This prevents someone who is working on the wiring, from being shocked by the neutral wire, when working on one of the circuits.
Wouldn't using a double pole 20 amp breaker give you the same protection? Then there wouldn't a need to tie two separate breaker handles together.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #7  
A full size double pole 20 is ideal... as long as you are not using the space saver or half size breakers.

The key is each breaker cannot be on the same side hot leg of a 220v panel...
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks. So it sounds like the electrician is running a 20 amp, 240 v circuit to the island and splitting the legs there. I'll verify that he's using a full size 2 pole breaker. However, There are still 3 things that draw 1500 watts (12.5 amps), so he's got to be putting 2 of them on the same leg for a total of 25 amps on a 20 amp leg. That's a 125% load and according to the circuit breaker trip curves http://http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0100-400%20A%20Frame%20FA-LA/FA-FC-FH/0600DB0105.pdf (page 2) , that is in the manufacturing tolerance window of 2 to 3 minutes up to 2 or 3 hours before it trips. It does not seem like a good idea to me, but I can now see why he says it will work - he's hoping one of those 1500 watt items will turn off before it trips the breaker.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #9  
If he's running (2) of the 12/3 wires you are good number of circuit wise, but I wouldn't let them do it in my house.
 
   / Current on a 12 gauge wire #10  
We are building a home in the country and there are no building inspections or code requirements in this area. I've told the builder that we want to at least meet all the code requirements even though there will not be any official inspections. So, here's the question: There are (2) romex 12/3 wire with ground running thru conduit (with water pipes) to the kitchen island. Supposedly there are (2) single pole 20 amp breakers tied into these wires somehow. I suspect the black wire is tied to one breaker and the red is tied to the other breaker. The primary current loads are:
- Dishwasher - calls for it's own 15 amp breaker
- 2 gallon hot water heater under the sink - probably a 1500 watt heating element (~12 amps)
- small appliance outlets - about 1500 watts for an electric skillet or waffle iron.
1st, I don't see how (2) 20 amp circuits can carry that load. I talked to the electrician and he says "not to worry, it's fine". (I've seen 12 gauge wire on a 30 amp breaker around here and I know that is NOT "fine".) It seems to me that the electrician is using a single 12 gauge neutral to carry the current from (2) 20 amp hot wires and the electrician tells me that 12 gauge can do that. :shocked: Nor do I understand how he's going to provide for the 3 circuits with 2 circuit breakers. I suppose that if we sequence the usage "properly" everything will work.

Am I behind the times? or am I missing something? I'm getting ready to tell the builder to stop work until this is fixed, but don't want to do that unless I'm right. Any thoughts?

you said there are two romex 12/3 wire, am I reading that wrong because if that means there are two cables with 12/3 w/ground wires he could possibly run four circuits or maybe I miss understood. but on the other hand if it is on a kitchen island it should be GFI circuits and not Edison anyway.
 
 
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