Sprinkler system question

[lww05]

I helped my now deceased Father install a water supply system that feeds a sprinkler system years ago. It picks up water from a creek and delivers it about 500 yards uphill to a 500 gallon tank. A high pressure pump delivers water from the tank to the sprinkler system. There are 11 stations with 4 heads on each.

The valves on the first three stations usually only need cleaning at the start of the season but this year, they had to be replaced. ( I think the annual or semi-annual dissassembly and re-assembly finally got the better of them) When I cut the pvc pipe, I couldn't believe how much grime build-up was on the walls of the pipe. The build-up feels slick like grime, I guess a byproduct from clay-like material in the creek water.

I was wondering if anybody might have a recommendation on an additive or something that might keep this down or possibly a last time treatment before the systems last use before winter.

The pressure gauge was showing 90# on the first 3 stations and around 70# on the rest. I bet it is time to clean out the heads on these stations too.

 

[RobertN]

Start with a pre-filter before the valves. It is amazing what you'll find when you clean the filter...

 

[aondre]

Are you filtering the water from the creek?

Is the slime from the clay, or is it biological?

Is there debris settling in the 500 gallon tank, if so clean it out and add a filter. Arkal disc filters work great for pond/creek water.

You could try adding a mild detergent with a weak bleach solution to the 500 gallon tank to flush out the lines. That would take care of any biological slime and shouldn't hurt the grass.

 

[_RaT_]

I'm not sure I follow you. The gauge is showing those kinds of pressures with the system operating? Those are fairly high pressures, what type of heads do you have? Impact, gear driven? Impact can handle a lot of debris, gear driven cannot. I have 2 Spears brand 100 GPM filters at my place to filter the water down to 1/32". You can get much finer filters then that, but the finer you go, the quicker they clog. The easiest way to go is with impacts, there will be no need to filter anything smaller then 1/32" in size as the impacts will pass those right through. For drip, you really need to get fine filtering and I woould suggest individaul filters at each circuit. RainBird also makes dirty water valves with "scrubbers" to operate in dirty conditions just in case your having an issue with that. Much of the crud you feel or see in the pipe can be algae related as well.

 

[lww05]

This was Dad's sprinkler system and I wasn't around him too much back when the system was new. It would have been good to hear from him what the system pressure normally ran at. I agree that 90# is too high. I don't have the time to get over to Mom's and spend the time I'd like to there but last year, I cleaned out two heads (gear driven, btw, can't remember the brand) that were spraying less than the others. I figure I really need to get back and do more of this chore.

He never used a filter but I definetly agree with that idea. Give me a name brand and/or model or series. I don't think the crud is algea related but is about a 17 year buildup of clay material in the water. The water stays pretty cold and I have it set to run every other day.

I wish I would have known about that Rainbird valve with scrubbers before I replaced those the other day. Those sound like they would fit the bill here in this situation.

 

[_RaT_]

Rainbird Scrubber valve

There are tons of different filters out there. Self cleaning to simple screen filters to expensive sand filters.

 

[gsxr1100]

Rainbird /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Get Hunter.... much better and self cleaning ( ICV Series
).

90 PSI for inlet is on the high side, but I do not know what pipe you have etc. I have 80 PSI on my inlet and with the pressure drops etc etc., I am fine.

Just finished my back yard last week; (all Hunter baby), new controller, valves, poly pipe, blazzing saddles etc. I love the I-25 rotors. I went overkill but zones are cheap.

I had Rainbirds and in the trash it all went too much money and the quality is poor I feel. To me the complete sys is cheap to install. The time is the expensive part. My local dealer wants over $45 for one I-25 Hunter Rotor (with SS). I get them online for around $31. Local has PGP heads for $20 and I can get online for $8.XX.

The bladding saddles are the best. No tools needed for installing.

 

[gsxr1100]

"There are 11 stations with 4 heads on each. "

What is the length of each zone? Do you know the nozzle in each rotors (gpm wise)? Do you know the OD of the pipe? I just ask since with 90 psi on the first 3 you should be able to get more then 4 heads to each zone; unless you are going hundreds of feet or the nozzles are so big (GPM) that it only allows the few heads.

Example I have 80 PSI which is about 18.1 GPM factor in pressure loses, velocity, SG of water, friction factor etc I lose about 8 PSI for my run. The length of the run is what kill the PSI... PLus the backflow device adds a lot also.

 

[_RaT_]

Now your an expert in irrigation too! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Mike, oil and water don't mix. I am far to knowledgeable in this area for someone to make blanket statements as you have made about the Hunter ICV valves or I-25 rotary heads. Suffice it to say, I find flag waving for any brand to be getting very stale and thus distasteful. This is particularly true coming from folks with a limited knowledge of the products and familiarity with their uses. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

I was going to comment on your past post but you edited it. The delta in price is about $70 to $90 for a 2” inlet for Hunter to Rainbird valves. BIG DELTA here.....The rainbirds are way overpriced in my book. I had the 5000 series heads and it went into the trash. Same with the PGA from them. They were poor at best. Just speaking from past usage of them.

Out of 4 major (big) installers in my area (that I personally know through business) no one uses Rainbird around here anymore. They did in the late 90’s and now they are not used. Not many suppliers even carry them around here. I guess I am being stale here but I know what I used and what I use now.

Example: Rainbird Falcon 6504 adj rotor is like $20. An Hunter I 20 or $25 is like $6.XX cheaper and does the same thing. And the reliability of the hunter (for me) & longevity are much different.

I went very much into detail on my plan and gave to a few people and they were amazed. That is what happens when you ask an engineer to plan a sprinkler system when I incorporate fluid dynamics, design, systems & other things into it. Then again I have only design sprinklers for a few years on the side. Again $85 for a valve and what you get is cheap. Now like $250 a piece is more higher priced. That is part of owning a system. You need to think about long-term and not up front costs. I can replace every head and valve every 2 years, with my current manufacture of choice in my yard, and not even blink. I had over 18 extra hunter heads and replaced my parents old ones too.

Nope, not an expert but I have used Rainbird products in the past and now use Hunter for a reason. I never stated I was an "expert" in any field here or on any forum.

Not to be stale on closing, try these brands here for the original poster. Hunter, Rain bird, Irritrol, Toro, Watermatic and Nelson