Water Well Casing Steel or PVC?

[GaryQWA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I always thought steel was the only way to go, but then I'm from a different era. Have a steel casing at my camp. high chloride content in the water and have had one quarter inch pump rod (hand pump) rust off at the static water level. Last two years have had a problem with iron bacteria (water smells like sulfur) - never though that it might be from the casing rusting.
Does the DEQ, Health Dept. and/or DNR approve PVC casings? Never heard of it in this area, but sounds like something to take a hard look at if it's an approved material.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>

IRB, iron reducing bacteria, eat iron, and steel casing and live in the water that recovers the well. They also live on the surface of the earth but aren't the problem they are when they take up residence in our water wells. They add iron to the water when they die and produce gas before and after death. They can get so bad they all but stop submersibe pumps by preventing water into the inlet. They also colonize water filters/softeners and toilet tanks with a jello like slimy snotty mass. If they cause problems, they are harmless to humans, you must kill them; but they will recoloninize a well that has had them present in the past.

Acid water, that's water with a pH below 7.0, or high DO (dissolved oxygen) and CO2 content waters, rust steel casings and galvanized pipe.

Gary Slusser

 

[PSDStu]

The Northwest Florida Water District which issues all the well permits does approve of PVC well casings.

PVC was new to me, as I was only familiar with the Steel casings.

I am really leaning in the PVC direction and after talking to some of the well drillers in the area it's very common.

With the well depth being in the 100-150 ft range my next decision will be whether to use a submersible or jet pump?

Stu

 

[DHennet]

My well report regarding the casing, says:

From: 0 to 82'
Size: 6 inch
Material: PVC
Schedule: SDR 27.6

This is on a 300' well drilled with a rotary drill rig.

 

[GaryQWA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The Northwest Florida Water District which issues all the well permits does approve of PVC well casings.

PVC was new to me, as I was only familiar with the Steel casings.

I am really leaning in the PVC direction and after talking to some of the well drillers in the area it's very common.

With the well depth being in the 100-150 ft range my next decision will be whether to use a submersible or jet pump?

Stu

)</font>

Stu, I strongly suggest a submersible pump. They don't have near the problems a jet pump has and they perform much better as to water flow and pressure. They also don't add noise in the house. And due to the depth of the well, you'd have to go with a two line deep well jet with the j-body in the well because of the depth being greater than the maximum for a shallow well jet of 25' at sea level which in FL usually wouldn't be a problem. But being in FL, wouldn't a jet pump be outside and probably need protection from the weather?

Gary Slusser

 

[HomeBrew2]

You seem to know a bit about IRB. I have a moderate prob with it. I find it to be worse, as evidenced by my filter in my tank house, during the hottest times of the summer. Also, the more water I use, the less IRB I seem to get. Are there any water use "habits" that tend to reduce IRB? Is direct chlorination of the well the only way to get rid of it (for a while)?

 

[Highbeam]

Gary, I do believe the question was about the casing and not the actual pumping pipe. So a coil of PE ain't gonna cut it. What are your thoughts on PVC as a casing material?

I agree on the submersible for a well any deeper than 50 feet. My 80 foot deep well will use a 230 volt submersible with a PE 1.25" pressure pipe.

It must be a location deal on the materials. Well drillers are an odd lot and no doubt rely on tradition a great deal. Their pappy's used steel so that's what they're doing up here.

 

[PSDStu]

(Stu, I strongly suggest a submersible pump. They don't have near the problems a jet pump has and they perform much better as to water flow and pressure. They also don't add noise in the house. And due to the depth of the well, you'd have to go with a two line deep well jet with the j-body in the well because of the depth being greater than the maximum for a shallow well jet of 25' at sea level which in FL usually wouldn't be a problem. But being in FL, wouldn't a jet pump be outside and probably need protection from the weather?

Gary Slusser )

Gary,

Thanks for the info regarding the sub pump, it seems to make the most sense.

Most of the folks in this area have some sort of pumphouse to protect their pump, and pressure tank from the elements.

Will most likely put up a pumphouse to protect the pressure tank.

Will be keeping my fingers crossed that the well driller hits good water which won't require any kind of filter. Some parts of this area are known to get some iron in their water.

Stu

 

[GaryQWA]

Highbeam, I mentioned the choices for drop pipe to show that PVC is used there too.

Personally, I think that when it comes to durability issues and potable water quality, the least metal in the system is best, so I vote for PVC casing and plastic water line from the pump to the fixture.

Gary Slusser

 

[GaryQWA]

Homebew2, warmer water temps will allow bacteria to thrive, so that's probably why you have more problems in the summer. I don't know if using more water would effect the problem, I've never heard anyone else mention that.

Shocking a well is at best a temporary 'fix'. Although not often, it can cause problems with the well casing and/or screening if any, the pump, power cable, drop pipe and water quality. Some of those problems can be very expensive and difficult to 'fix'; like colloidal iron. So I'm not a great fan of doing it. Consistant shocking can cause decreased production in some wells due to bacteria that produce slime as protection. That can cause encrustations on screening. Now I'm one of a small number of people that take that position. Most everyone else says shock and shock it again and again but rarely mention any problems in doing so.

If it becomes a problem in the house, I use chlorine in inline erosion pellet chlorinators and some times what is called a pellet dropper on the well casing.

Gary Slusser

 

[penokee]

Gary - Thanks for the information. Read your other posts, and I've been dumping in a 50/50 solution of chlorax and water in the well to kill the bacteria - smell goes away. Don't use the well for drinking, primarily for washing, dishes, animals, etc,. If I could reel back 25 years, would explore the PVC.
My well is 97' deep, 1' of overburden and 96' of rock ledge. A 21' length of steel pipe with a driving shoe and the balance drilled in the rock. Grouted with cement slurry. Do you think PVC would work in this type situation?
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