Water Well Casing Steel or PVC?

[HomeBrew2]

Than you for the info Gary. It substantiates my lack of action thus far. I don't care about the slightly orange tinge on my "whites"; chlorine tabs in the toilet tanks fixes the buildup there. I'm not dumping chloring in the well unless it's a health deal. Life is good. Thanks again /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[GaryQWA]

IMO, I'm not a well driller, PVC will work anywhere 'regular' steel casing will; if they are both the same schedule strength. IIRC, a steel casing can use PVC screening.

One potential problem with shocking a well is the formation of disinfection by-products (DBPs) called trihalomethanes (THMs) which are a group of carcinogens. In 'city' water that is chlorinated, they are currently limited to 80 ppB (billion) and that is a small amount. They are created when certain organics are present in the water; like plant/tree leaves, pine tree needles etc. that are usually found in surface water. But who knows if the well has surface water infiltration or if it is under surface water intrusion/influence before they pour the bleach down the well? Or if they are creating THMs? But in reality, most wells won't, or shouldn't, have the problem. In certain situations I do support shocking a well and have done it for customers or taught folks how to do it. I've also done it to my own well years ago before I installed a UV light after my softener.

Gary Slusser

 

[SPIKER]

PVC is way to go no doupt about it, my well casing is rusty rusty and even more rusty. it was installed in 79 I belive. is 83' deep only cased to 27' water table/height is about 6~18 feet depending on the drawdown rate I've pumped it is mostly stagnet for the last 4 yrs as I don't reside there full time. the water heater gets the smell bad if it is left on and not shocked routinly. I use the pool tabs as I don't DRINK the water and drop one every so often, (maybe monthly) when the smell starts to come back. if I'm there & running th water regulary it is clean clear and smells OK but if it sets very long the well casing rust builds up and woha bad day vern... Unfortuneatly mine is a 4" sch 80 casing of steel pipe. wish it aws PVC much of the problems would be elminated I belive.

anyhow that is just my 2ents worth... I'm off to check other things out such as my PILLOW /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

MarkM

 

[RAG PA]

All well casing will use threaded couplers for ease/speed in installation and so the casing can be pulled in the future if needed. Usually 21' lengths are used for ease of transport/storage. PVC is a good choice and it is pressure rated the same as the steel which has serious rust problems because it is mild unprotected steel pipe. IIRC both are sch 40 but I may be wrong on the schedule. Usually the steel is only 3/16" thick.

Sch 80 PVC in 21' lengths is also a good choice for the drop pipe and one manufacturer has a patented bell end with a no tread coupling feature. That's if you aren't going with the IMO better choice of coiled PE (polyethylene) tubing with only a fitting on each end. It is used in a continuous roll down to 500+' with either 160 or 200 psi rated. Galvanized is the worst choice due to corrosion and added iron to the water and then clogging due to rusting internally, which causes pressure loss and eventual replacement. That can happen in a short time depending on the water quality.

Lightening causes many pump failures each year although that doesn't mean the casing is struck.

Gary Slusser

I agree with the Galvanized...I have a driven well 18 feet, I am pulling it for the second time due to corrosion issues, lots of black flakes whenever the pipes are disturbed. I and currently augering down to 5 feet then going to place 8inch Schedule 40 PVC then continue to use that as the guide and then intermittantly force the PVC pipe down as I auger deeper. The PVC for the shallow depths I am going should be no problem since I see others have taken them much deeper.

 

[Cat_Driver]

I have a 600' well 8" PVC casing now almost 20 years.

When they drilled it the dropped in the casing, filled the sided with fine sand/gravel then poured concrete around the casing in layers so as not to melt the casing from the heat of the drying concrete.

I have another well ( older well maybe 50 years old) and it falling apart rusting and flaking off.

The PVC casing is strong and solid.

 

[Egon]

I have a 600' well 8" PVC casing now almost 20 years.

When they drilled it the dropped in the casing, filled the sided with fine sand/gravel then poured concrete around the casing in layers so as not to melt the casing from the heat of the drying concrete.

I have another well ( older well maybe 50 years old) and it falling apart rusting and flaking off.

The PVC casing is strong and solid.

Tell us more about this cementing process.

 

[Valveman]

Sealing the well casing with cement or bentonite is standard in most areas. In Texas 10' cement seal is required for well seal applications and 25' is required for a pitless. It depends on the area and depth if steel or PVC casing is used. In wells that are too deep or drill through material that could collapse PVC, steel casing is used. I prefer PVC casing anywhere it is possible.