P/U Dumpbed conversion

   / P/U Dumpbed conversion #1  

scruffy

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A couple of you were talking about dump type trailers, or possibly converting your pickup to a dump bed. This looked interesting, and certainly an interesting price. See attached photo, it fits all Ford, Chevy, and Dodge full size trucks. The web page is: WWW.PIERCESALES.COM . I clicked on the bicycle, the the dump/winches on the left side and scrolled down until I found this item.

Description: See Spec Sheet! Now you can convert your pickup truck into a useful dump truck. Thsi is an easy bolt-on kit which includes everything you will need to convert your pickup truck. The bed is raised by a 12 volt hydraulic pump with a built-in reservoir. Most installation can be accomplished in 4 to 5 hours. This bolt on kit requires no welding except when connecting the bumper to the rear hinges.
Price: $787.99

P.S. - I forgot to inclose the spec sheet, here it is:
PIERCE DUMP KIT P046U
Here is a Summary of the Assembly Instructions Provided with Each Unit

The Kit Includes


Hinges both left and right
Hinge Arm both left and right
Pump Bracket
2 Cylinder Shafts
2 Clips
Gas Filler Bracket
Stiffner Plate
Lower Frame
Scissor Assembly with Cylinder
Base Assembly
Strap
Hydraulic Hose 44 inches
Elbow 3/8 inch NPT by 1/4 inch
Hardware kit
Electrical kit
12 Volt Hydraulic Pump and Motor
Installation Instructions



Specifications

Load Capacity
Maximum Angle
Dumping Time
Cylinder Diameter
Pump Pressure
Shipping Weight
Hydraulic Pump
Extended Scissor
Width of Scissor
Folded Length
2 Tons
45 Degrees
10 Seconds
3.5 inches
1500 PSI
175 lbs.
12 Volt
43 inches
6.25 inches
25.75 inches


Tools Used for Installation


Metal Cutting Saw
3/8 inch Drill Motor and 3/8 in. Drill bit
Screwdriver and Pliers
Set of Sockets and Wrenches to 3/4 in.
Two "C" clamps (6-in. or 8-in.)
Tape Measure
Three Quarts of Hydraulic Fluid
Creeper
2x4 Wood Props
Access to Weld Shop (to weld bumper)



Drawings

Truck Frame
Dump Bed
Hydraulic Scissor
Top Frames
Electrical

To assemble the P046U dump hoist you must first remove the pickup box. Cut the chassis off close to the spring hanger to allow for a higher dumping angle and increased load dumping capacity. Refer to the Capacity Chart (supplied with each unit) for angle and capacity that you prefer. After properly cutting the chassis on a diagonal, mount the rear pivot brackets to the chassis as shown. They can be either bolted or welded in place.

Check the Capacity Chart for proper location of the front mounting tube brackets. Clamp the tube to the frame to determine if the hoist linkage is to be mounted on the top of the chassis frame as shown. The verticle position of the front tube mounting should allow the pickup box to return to its original position.

THE TRUCK BOX MUST BE BLOCKED
BEFORE ANY MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES ARE UNDERTAKEN!

Attach the cylinder linkage to the hoist frame with a 1x9 inch pin and cotter pins. Adjust the position of the front mounting tube to be sure the cylinder linkage clears the rear housing. If there is a cross member in the way of the linkage, remove it. The front mounting tube will take its place for support. The front mounting tube can be further reinforced by welding or bolting an additional brace to it and the chassis. After the desired position has been achieved, you may cut the front mounting tube to the desired length. Weld angle irons to the front mounting tube and then bolt it to the chassis.

Attach the lift angle cross member with the flange forward to the linkage unit by inserting a 1x11 inch pin and cotter pins through the angle brackets and the upper lift arms of the linkage unit. The lift angle cross member should be cut the same length as the front mounting tube. If the front mounting tube is positioned between the chassis, the lift angle cross member should be cut and notched as shown to allow it to rest flat on the chassis and downward flange is cut to fit inside the chassis.

Place the other angle irons on the chassis. Position them so at least 2 to 3 holes that were used to fasten the pickup box to the chassis are used. Check original holes on chassis and measure 3/4 inch towards the rear hinge. Mark and drill new holes in the angle irons. Do the same procedure for the rear hinge pivot irons. These brackets can be cut to any desired length to use the original holes in the box.

When mounted correctly, there will be a 3/4 inch clearance between the cab and the box. Weld the angle iron bracket and lift the angle cross members together. Remove the pins holding the cross member supports and brackets to the pickup box using the original mounting hardware. Place the box on the chassis and insert all pins. If the box has mounting bolts, it is sometimes necessary to cut them off.

If equipped with a rear bumper, remount the bumper to the rear hinge brackets by drilling new holes in the hinge brackets. Place bumper so it will fit the box and fasten securely. The bumper will then follow the bed when the bed is raised. If a trailer is to be towed, one should install a receiver hitch which mounts directly to the truck's frame. Do not tow a trailer with the bumper mounted to the dump hinge.

In the case of some model pickups with the gas tank mounted so that the filler tube comes out the side of the truck, the general solution is to cut the filler hose loose and shorten it. The box will then raise leaving the filler tube stationary.

The electric pump can be mounted on either the inside or the outside of the chassis. Disconnect the negative battery cable until wiring is completed. Run the big cable from the large terminal on the pump motor to either the battery cable terminal on the starter (GM) or the battery side of the starter solenoid (Ford and Dodges). Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the dash in the location you choose for the switch. The twin 16 Gauge wire supplied has two wing connectors on the switch end and one ring and one female connector on the pump end. Find or make a hole in the firewall and put the switch end of the double wire through far enough to reach the switch location. Run the wires back to the pump. Be careful aroound the exhaust system and edges that could cut the wire. Connect the ring terminal to the small terminal on the pump motor solenoid, and the female push-on terminal to the square pressure relief solenoid. If there is another terminal on the pressure relief solenoid, ground it. If there is only one terminal on the release solenoid, then it is internally grounded. Attach the two ring connectors to the outside terminal on the switch. The center terminal goes to a 12 volt power supply and should have a 10 amp fuse in the line. This should be connected to your truck fuse box so that there is no power to the switch when the ignition switch is in the OFF position.

Fill the pump through the filler hole in the reservoir with a good grade of hydraulic oil. The capacity is approximately two quarts. Maintain the proper oil level. When hoist does not raise completely, add oil until it does. Oil level in the reservoir should be 1 inch minimum with the cylinder fully extended. Do not run pump dry. Never use old or dirty oil.

With the wiring completed, test your work. One position of the switch will start the pump motor and begin to raise the hoist. The other position will open the pressure release valve, but at this point the scissors will have to be pushed closed while the switch is on.

WARNING!
NEVER RUN PUMP WHEN THE RESERVOIR IS EMPTY!

Keep all moving parts well greased. Periodically check all connections to be sure they are tight and clean the reservoir cap.


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PIERCESALES.COM 1-800-658-6301 Home Page
Feedback/Catalog Request1-800-658-6301 Contact us





<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by scruffy on 08/08/01 05:09 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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