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  1. #41

    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Posts
    320
    Tractor
    Kubota L3710, JD5300, AC D19, IH 806, IH 8950, Ford 8N, Farmal Super M, several others in the past.

    Default Re: Pole barn

    cowboydoc:
    The Menards here gives the book for free. I picked up a few prior to ordering the shed. Here the booklet sets out in front of the counter for the taking.


  2. #42
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Posts
    6,737
    Tractor
    JD 8320 MFWD, JD 6415 MFWD, FEL, and cab, John Deere MFWD 4600, John Deere 4020, John Deere 4430, John Deere 455 mower, Deutz, and Gehl 4610 perkins skidsteer

    Default Re: Pole barn

    Yea that doesn't surprise me. These guys here are real jerks.


  3. #43
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    2,387
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Tractor
    Kubota L210

    Default Re: Pole barn

    Radman,

    Sounds like you should have one of those nuclear fallout shelter signs on your pole barn.

    Chuck



  4. #44

    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    180
    Location
    Eastern Connecticut
    Tractor
    TC40D

    Default Re: Pole barn

    We put up a 34x48x10 pole barn recently from Carter Lumber in PA. Our poles where 8' OC with trusses 4' OC with 2x4 girts 2' OC. The 4' truss spacing allowed 2x4 to be layed flat on top of trusses and were strong enough to climb on (not my favorite activity though). The trusses were definitely designed for 4' spacing (not 2'). I believe the reason our design was able to use the intermediate trusses was due to the use of double 2x12 girder used on the side walls (one on each side of pole). This seems like a better design than trying to make the girt span the distance between poles.


  5. #45

    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    110
    Location
    Clinton, New Jersey
    Tractor
    Kubota L4310 HST, GE ElekTrak, Cub Cadet 125

    Default Re: Pole barn

    Just put up a 30x56 pole barn. Fetterville Sales in PA put it up. Their price was almost exactly 1/2 the price Morton wanted. The pole barn was going to be a DIY project but after pricing the materials it looked like all I was goin to save was about $3 grand and it would take a while just by myself.
    I could not justify the Morton price. At that rate I could build a conventional building with footings, etc.
    4 years ago I got quotes for conventional and post framed 28x42 building. The Morton post frame price was the same as the conventional price. So, why pay Morton for a post framed building with metal sides and roof when I can put up a building using concrete footings and 16" OC walls w/25 year shingles and stained clapboard siding AND electrical AND 3 insulated garage doors w/openers AND a heated concrete floor AND Andersen casement windows.
    Sorry to be so negative about Morton but they really are high priced. At least here in NJ.


  6. #46
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Posts
    6,737
    Tractor
    JD 8320 MFWD, JD 6415 MFWD, FEL, and cab, John Deere MFWD 4600, John Deere 4020, John Deere 4430, John Deere 455 mower, Deutz, and Gehl 4610 perkins skidsteer

    Default Re: Pole barn

    Those are my thoughts exactly Rich. They are just as overpriced here.


  7. #47

    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    180
    Location
    Eastern Connecticut
    Tractor
    TC40D

    Default Re: Pole barn

    I built my whole barn w/sitework w/electrical w/plumbing w/concrete slab w/5 horse stalls w/wash stall w/tack room w/feedroom w/6 windows finished with 2x6 TG SYP thoughout interior for the same price as Morton wanted to construct the shell of the building.


  8. #48
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    2,387
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Tractor
    Kubota L210

    Default Re: Pole barn

    Since I started this thread I guess I ought to report my progress. I've got the frame of my 24x32' shed up, except for the purlins and wind bracing. If the weather cooperates, I hope to get it ready for the roof metal by next weekend when my galvalume is supposed to arrive. I used posts I laminated from 3 2x6's, with exterior grade construction cement and galvanized nails. I'll be adding some bolts to reinforce the lamination as I add the wind bracing. The poles are 8' OC as are the engineered trusses. The poles are direct bearing. The end trusses are set in notches on the outside of the poles, while the three inner trusses are in slots I made by cutting out the inside 2x6. That worked out very nicely because my son and I were able to set the trusses without other help. Those 24' trusses made up of 2x6's are fairly heavy, but we set them on the top horizontal girts upside down and braced against the poles that would support them. We then ran a rope from the truss peak, up and over, and one of us pulled the rope while the other pushed with a 2x4. When the truss was just short of vertical, we tied off the rope, climbed up, and set the truss one end at a time. The ones in the slots were then supported and essentially vertical. The end trusses were a bit more trouble, but a honking big C clamp came in handy to keep them in place until they could be nailed in. The slots didn't work out quite as I had planned. When I made the poles, I left the last two feet free of nails except for a single one right at the end, and I used minimal glue. My original plan was to trim the poles and cut the slots with my Husky chainsaw. Trimming the poles to an angle matching the truss pitch was no problem, but cutting the slots while hanging on the top of a ladder got interesting. I ended up using my antique brace-and-bit to put two overlapping 7/8" holes though the bottom of each inside 2x4. I was then able to break the glue joints with a brick cutting chisel and pop them out. I cleaned up the slots with a wood chisel and layed a bed of construction cement to give a smooth surface for the truss ends. Sounds like more trouble than it was. It's surprizing how fast a sharp Forstner bit will cut softwood. I'm going to try to attach a couple of photos. One is of my son sitting up there after we set the last truss. The other is me convincing one of the trusses to get all the way down in the slot. Since these were made, it has rained almost every day I could have worked on it. I managed to get a few purlins in a day later, then the rains came and I caught a cold just about the time the anthrax stories started to hit the news. I tried to convince my wife I had pulmonary anthrax, but she's a nurse and doesn't give me much sympathy. OOPs. Lokks like I'll have to try the pictures one at a time.

    Chuck


    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #49
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Posts
    2,387
    Location
    Mid-Missouri
    Tractor
    Kubota L210

    Default Re: Pole barn

    And here's the second shot.........

    Chuck


    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #50
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Posts
    1,265
    Location
    Western Michigan
    Tractor
    NH TC33D w/R4 Tires, Rear Remote, Hydraulic Toplink, 2 Auxiliary Work Lights, 7308 Loader w/Kasco Uni-Hitch (Quick Tach)

    Default Re: Pole barn

    Chuck,
    Gaterboy referenced this thread from another discussion. I enjoyed reading it last night. You left the thread die without ever showing the completed project. Do you have any more photo's to share of the building process or a completed shot?


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