Husky 350

[Chuck52]

I never throw anything away....intentionally. The corolary is that I can never find anything in all the clutter. My current I-know-I-put-it-somewhere is the manual for my Husky 350. Why do I need the manual, you ask? Because like an idiot I was cutting small cedars. Make that, I was cutting small cedars like an idiot./w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif I got crud up in the chain path and jammed it all up. So I need to take the chain off and clean up my screw-up. I removed the two hex nuts that lock the bar adjustment, but something else must hold the housing on. I don't see any obvious screws, but there must be something else holding it. I've changed the chain once, but don't recall the procedure. I hoped Husky would have downloadable instructions, but no such luck. So....<font color=red>HELP</font color=red>!!

Chuck

 

[Jeff396]

I got a Husky also. The first time I tried to take it apart to put the chain on I had the same problem. Turns out the kick back brake was on which makes it almost impossible to remove the cover. Also, this being my first time taking it apart I didn't know how hard I had to push it to disengage the brake. It was pretty dang hard! Anyway, I hope this helps/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Jeff

 

[Chuck52]

Jeff,

That was it alright. I actually managed to pry it off before discovering that it was the brake hanging on. Then there seemed to be no way to get it back on without taking the brake mechanism apart. There's a very strong coiled spring which tightens the brake, which is a single spring steel loop which grabs the flywheel. I couldn't get it loosened up so I could put it back together except by removing the coil spring. It's looks like that spring always has the brake "on" in my saw. Seems like the two springs should balance better. With it off, it should go to the "open" position, seems to me.

Chuck

 

[poorboy]

Jeff, I bought a 350 in the fall. The manuel and saw, is in my old'63 Chevy a few miles away in the other tobacco barn or at least that's where I left it. I have to feed there tomorrow and check on a few mommy cows. I'll grab it in case it's still a mystery tomorrow. I'll check in tomorrow evening.

Good luck,
Patrick

 

[Jeff396]

Something doesn't sound right. If there was a problem with the brake you wouldn't have been able to operate the saw the last time out. You should be able to take the front hand guard (aka chain brake lever) and pull it hard toward the rear of the saw which will ever so slightly loosen the brake band. If you did end up taking it apart you will definately want to be sure the brake is working properly. Sure wouldn't want to get a saw kick back with the brake inoperative!/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif I don't have your exact saw, I have the Rancher 55, but I have never seen one brake that operates differently than another.

Jeff

BTW, After reading the advice on TBN, I immediately ordered me a pair of kevlar chainsaw pants and the combo helmet and ear protection!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Jeff396]

It's actually Chuck who has the problem. I bought me a Rancher 55 in the Fall with the best of intentions of clearing out all the dead trees but it seems my hobbys keep gettin' in the way of "working" around the house. Oh well, there's always spring/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Jeff

 

[Anonymous Poster]

That's hilarious, exactly what happened to me with my 350. A friend
borrowed and thought he'd broken it because the plate over the base
of the bar wouldn't come off. Like you, I pried it off, then discovered I
couldn't get it back on.

I don't recall exactly how I got the plate back on. I didn't remove the
spring. I remember it involved using a pair of pliers to hold the spring
open. I also remember that it took quite a bit of force, and the spring
is sharp, so I was worryied that if the spring popped I could get a serious
gash. Use safety glasses and gloves if you getting it back on. Oh wait,
I think it involved twisting the post that the break hooks into. Yes, that's
how I did it. Good luck!

 

[Chuck52]

Thanks all for the replies. When I finally got the bugger off, the brake was too tight to put back on. If the thing works like it should, you should be able to force it open without busting a gut when you have it off the saw. The two springs ought to balance. and there's nothing but the balance between the springs holding it open or closed without the guard mechanism in place. I may have warped the brake spring getting it off, because if the coiled spring is put back in it forces the brake spring closed and I can't get the cover back on the saw. The saw isn't a year old, so I may be able to get it serviced for less than the national debt.

Chuck

 

[poorboy]

Chuck, I'm sorry but I have taken ill with a terrible virus. Good luck with the repair I'll still snag that manuel or saw when I go doctor a calf tomorrow.

Sorry,
Patrick

 

[Chuck52]

Thanks Poorboy, but I think I have it under control now. Gosh darn brake was the problem.

Chuck