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  1. #11
    Super Member Highbeam's Avatar
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    South Puget Sound, WA
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    Kioti CK30HST

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    I'll take a stab too.

    1) Grade 70 is ideal, grade 43 is second choice. Country of origin is not important unless you are older. Us young folks have been using foreign merchandise all our lives, note the Korean tractor. Other grades of chain, especially higher ones, have some funky metal characteristics that are not desirable like being extra stretchy. The vast majority of folks that should know use G70 for binding rolling loads. I use 3/8" chain for my 4000 lb tractor.

    2) The binders are not graded like chain. They are only labeled with a working load limit or WLL. Be sure that the WLL of the binder is at least as high as the WLL of the chain you choose. I prefer ratchet binders.

    3) I use and recommend 4 separate chains and 4 separate binders. Each pair leading from a corner of the tractor to the trailer to make an "X" shape. I am not real big on independently chaining down implements or the loader though I recognize that the rules require it. If you are trailering interstate or a long ways then I would add an independent chain and binder to the FEL and the rear implement. What I do is arrange my X so that the implements are being squeezed if it is possible.

    3) I anchor on the tractor to the tractors drawbar hitch assembly in the rear and around the tractor frame in front. Then I go to the best stakepockets on the trailer.

    4) The chain you buy for binding has hooks on each end. They are not slip hooks so the hooks stay with the link you put them on. Make a short loop around the anchor point on each end and then place the binder between the two loops. All the extra slack will now be between the two binder hooks and should be wrapped around something to prevent the chain from dragging on the road.

    5) The consensus is a strange way to think of it, there are some dang smart folks who think the consensus is bunk. Whatever you do, don't use straps.


  2. #12
    Super Member Highbeam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    5,039
    Location
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Tractor
    Kioti CK30HST

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    I'll take a stab too.

    1) Grade 70 is ideal, grade 43 is second choice. Country of origin is not important unless you are older. Us young folks have been using foreign merchandise all our lives, note the Korean tractor. Other grades of chain, especially higher ones, have some funky metal characteristics that are not desirable like being extra stretchy. The vast majority of folks that should know use G70 for binding rolling loads. I use 3/8" chain for my 4000 lb tractor.

    2) The binders are not graded like chain. They are only labeled with a working load limit or WLL. Be sure that the WLL of the binder is at least as high as the WLL of the chain you choose. I prefer ratchet binders.

    3) I use and recommend 4 separate chains and 4 separate binders. Each pair leading from a corner of the tractor to the trailer to make an "X" shape. I am not real big on independently chaining down implements or the loader though I recognize that the rules require it. If you are trailering interstate or a long ways then I would add an independent chain and binder to the FEL and the rear implement. What I do is arrange my X so that the implements are being squeezed if it is possible.

    3) I anchor on the tractor to the tractors drawbar hitch assembly in the rear and around the tractor frame in front. Then I go to the best stakepockets on the trailer.

    4) The chain you buy for binding has hooks on each end. They are not slip hooks so the hooks stay with the link you put them on. Make a short loop around the anchor point on each end and then place the binder between the two loops. All the extra slack will now be between the two binder hooks and should be wrapped around something to prevent the chain from dragging on the road.

    5) The consensus is a strange way to think of it, there are some dang smart folks who think the consensus is bunk. Whatever you do, don't use straps.

    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Super Member Highbeam's Avatar
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    Feb 2005
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    South Puget Sound, WA
    Tractor
    Kioti CK30HST

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    Here's the tractor butt. Note how in both photos the chains also squeeze the implements.

  4. #14
    Super Member Highbeam's Avatar
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    South Puget Sound, WA
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    Kioti CK30HST

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    Here's the tractor butt. Note how in both photos the chains also squeeze the implements.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #15
    Super Member Highbeam's Avatar
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    South Puget Sound, WA
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    Kioti CK30HST

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    On those kubota hooks, do you chain using the criss cross method as your antique tractor picture shows?

  6. #16
    Super Member Highbeam's Avatar
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    South Puget Sound, WA
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    Kioti CK30HST

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    On those kubota hooks, do you chain using the criss cross method as your antique tractor picture shows?

  7. #17
    Veteran Member GeneD14's Avatar
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    Jul 2003
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    Southern Indiana
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    Kubota M95s, Allis Chalmers 185 & D17 series IV, Kubota ZG-23 Mower, Kawasaki Mule 610

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( 3) I use and recommend 4 separate chains and 4 separate binders. Each pair leading from a corner of the tractor to the trailer to make an "X" shape. )</font>

    I know that sounds like overkill but it really isn't if you have to stop quick. I buy my transport chain in 20' lengths. It already comes with a hook on each end. I cut them into two 10' lengths and add 1 hook to the cut end on each chain. That is about the cheapest way that I've found to get enough chain to safely transport a tractor. 10' lengths are more than long enough if you use 4 chains (one one each corner). I also tie down the loader and any implement on the 3 pt.

  8. #18
    Veteran Member GeneD14's Avatar
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    Location
    Southern Indiana
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    Kubota M95s, Allis Chalmers 185 & D17 series IV, Kubota ZG-23 Mower, Kawasaki Mule 610

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( 3) I use and recommend 4 separate chains and 4 separate binders. Each pair leading from a corner of the tractor to the trailer to make an "X" shape. )</font>

    I know that sounds like overkill but it really isn't if you have to stop quick. I buy my transport chain in 20' lengths. It already comes with a hook on each end. I cut them into two 10' lengths and add 1 hook to the cut end on each chain. That is about the cheapest way that I've found to get enough chain to safely transport a tractor. 10' lengths are more than long enough if you use 4 chains (one one each corner). I also tie down the loader and any implement on the 3 pt.

  9. #19
    Veteran Member GeneD14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Southern Indiana
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    Kubota M95s, Allis Chalmers 185 & D17 series IV, Kubota ZG-23 Mower, Kawasaki Mule 610

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( On those kubota hooks, do you chain using the criss cross method as your antique tractor picture shows?
    )</font>
    Yes. By the way the hooks are rated at 11,000 lbs each so I have a margin of safety.

  10. #20
    Veteran Member GeneD14's Avatar
    Join Date
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    1,310
    Location
    Southern Indiana
    Tractor
    Kubota M95s, Allis Chalmers 185 & D17 series IV, Kubota ZG-23 Mower, Kawasaki Mule 610

    Default Re: Chain and binders

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( On those kubota hooks, do you chain using the criss cross method as your antique tractor picture shows?
    )</font>
    Yes. By the way the hooks are rated at 11,000 lbs each so I have a margin of safety.

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